Grouchy & Grumpy

   

Lately, developments on the wine scene have been making me grouchy and grumpy.

It's a personal state of mind that hopefully doesn't affect my dealings with people I know. Those people who know me, say grouchy and grumpy sounds about right. 

Anyway, here are four things that I think are disrupting the wine world and annoying me.  

The impact of AI on wine.  Followers of wine business news or feature items in the general press, have no doubt noticed an increased encroachment of artificial intelligence in every aspect of life. 

Although I've been accused of being a Luddite, my view is while AI is being used to better many aspects of our lives, including the wine business, there will be aspects that ultimately prove to be problematic.   

Because the impact of AI is increasing, even for writers and photographers who do not know if their work is being manipulated by AI, the satisfying act of creativity could be out of their control if not managed properly.  

So, what it comes down to is, with the flurry of AI activity, I worry about how AI will make wine writing less relevant.   

Expensive wine. Today, there is a level of shocking wine pricing that is beyond reason. You may not have noticed, but some high-end Burgundy, Bordeaux and California  Cabernet Sauvignon are priced in the thousands of dollars.  

Why?  

Because, believe it or not,  there are people willing to pay any price for a bottle of one of these coveted wines.  And, compounding this inflationary practice, only those people can say if a wine is worth the high price and why.

Unfortunately, hearing that wine prices are way outside their budget, a new beverage shopper,  trying to decide whether to buy wine, or beer, or some other beverage, will likely not opt for wine. 

 Of course, there is no way to know, for certain, if high prices are contributing to low wine sales. But, on some level, throwing up high prices is surely a barrier to sales. 

Best lists.  I read an item recently, addressed to winery owners, suggesting that if you want to sell more wine, then add the word "best" in your marketing pitch.

Right, as if we don't have enough "experts" advising us that this Chardonnay is the best from a given vintage, or region, or winery.  

The benefit of collecting and drinking wine is making a personal decision of what to buy.  Often, the "best list" is not based on solid knowledge of the wines, but on someone else's  likes and opinions. 

If you must, only use a "best list" as a guide, and make your own wine buying decisions. The best wine for you is the one that best suits your taste, not someone else's opinion of "best."  

Wine as an investment.  Some people reading this will, no doubt, think my concern is silly and misguided.  After all, they might say, wine is sold in commerce, at retail stores, restaurants and cafes.  So, why not make a buck from investing in wine?

Because wine should not be treated as a commodity, something that has lost its individual distinction in the marketplace and is being hawked for the lowest price.  

When wine becomes an item of investment, it is then not intended to be drunk and enjoyed, but passed along from one investor to the next, in search of a monetary profit.

Someone once said that wine is "a social lubricant."  The primary reason for wine is to provide a pleasurable accompaniment with food, in a social setting.  Thus, wine should be viewed as a personal investment in gustatory pleasure, not an impersonal way to make a profit.    

To wrap up this personal rant, here are some closing words: You probably have your own list of things that annoy you about how wine is marketed, promoted and sold.  And I understand if you think what I've written here is nonsense, but before you hit the delete button, read the four things again and see if there's something about the impact of AI that is troubling to you. 

Dreamstime image 

 

Next post: Napa's Other Wines

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Great Barolo

This way to Barolo

Barolo is not just a good Italian red wine, it's a great one.  For years, it was fashionable, even necessary, for some marketers to call Barolo, "Italy's Cabernet Sauvignon."

But, Piemonte winemakers knew better.  Nebbiolo was their red grape, and in the Piemonte (Piedmont in English) region of northern Italy, Nebbiolo makes better red wine than Cabernet Sauvignon.  The name Piemonte means "at the foot of the mountains."

In fact, Nebbiolo is believed by many to be Italy's best red variety, better than the ubiquitous Sangiovese of Chianti and the lesser known Aglianico, the grape of Taurasi.

The classic description for Nebbiolo is tar and roses, plus dark cherries and herbs with a clear licorice note, supported by firm tannin and crisp acidity. 

That inviting combination of varietal characteristics is common in a small tier of vineyards in Italy's northern Langhe. Most of the south facing vineyards are scattered along the rolling hills, up to 1,000 feet, at the base of the Italian Alps. 

Although there is more Barbera planted in Piemonte, the wines of Barolo and Barbaresco are the stars of the region. Gattinara, made from Nebbiolo, is a major wine outside of the Langhe, but plantings of Nebbiolo are small in Gattinara, by comparison to Barolo.

Modern Barolo is fermented on the skins and seeds, following a maceration of up to three weeks, with a minimum alcohol of 13%. Traditional aging is in large oak casks, with modern maturation in French oak cellar barriques. 

Required aging of Barolo is a minimum of 38 months, at least 18 months in barrel.  Riserva wines are aged for a minimum of 62 months, 18 months in barrel. 

Barolo is at its best from vineyards in these five leading townships: Barolo, Castiglione Faletto, La Morra, Montforte d'Alba and Serralunga d'Alba.  Soils in these areas are composed of clay marl, containing some limestone.

Among the best Barolo producers are: Bruno Giacosa, Elio Grasso, Giacomo Conterno, Vietti, Franco Fiorina, Mascarello, Paulo Scavino, Oddero, Azelia, Ceretto, Barale Fratelli.

Barolo vintages available today include the highly rated 2020, and also 2021, 2016, 2010 and 2009.  Wines from all of these vintages are expected to mature 20+ years or longer.  The 2025 harvest is expected to be special.

Wine prices, like everything else, have been going up. Barolo has always been expensive, especially from elite producers like Ceretto, Giacosa and Vietti.  At the low end, Barolo prices hover around $50.  Mid range  prices are $80 to $100.  From there, prices soar to as much as $700 for Riservas from recent highly rated vintages. 

Well aged Barolo is best with beef.  Lighter styles are good with salami and seasoned sausages.  Well-aged Barolo pairs nicely with bollito misto, a blend of meats in a garlic sauce.  A favorite dish in Piemonte is brasato al Barolo, a piece of beef marinated and cooked in Barolo.   

Castelmagno cheese

When the last piece of brasato is gone, finish off the remaining Barolo with a piece of Piemontese cheese like Castelmagno, or Testun al Barolo, made with Barolo.  Also good with Barolo is aged hard Parmigiano-Reggiano and semi-soft Fontina, a good match with younger Barolo.    

 

Next post: Grouchy & Grumpy

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It's Time for Beaujolais

                                                                                                                                               Unsplash photo

David Morrison has something to say about the popularity of Beaujolais, in his blog, "The Wine Gourd."  

Morrison, owner of one of the more interesting blog names, is a scientist trained in plant biology who somehow got sidetracked to wine economics.  And if that's not unusual enough, Morrison is an Australian living in Sweden, writing about wine.  

Morrison's essay on Beaujolais export markets suggests there is more than one way to look at the popularity of Beaujolais.  Viewed by market size, the United States is at the top of Beaujolais export markets, followed by the United Kingdom, Canada, Japan and Belgium.  The tiny Grand Duchy of Luxembourg came 23rd out of 25 export markets listed. 

Look at the data by the amount of Beaujolais consumed, though, and Luxembourg shoots up to first, followed by Belgium, Ireland, Canada and the United Kingdom. And, the United States has now dropped to 11th place, behind the Netherlands.

Clearly, the data suggests that Americans love Beaujolais, something that's good to know as the holidays approach and you begin planning the Thanksgiving menu, perhaps to include a bottle or two of fresh and fruity Beaujolais Nouveau, basic Beaujolais, Beaujolais Villages, or one of the ten Beaujolais Cru.

Beaujolais Nouveau.  There was an LP (remember those?) released years ago titled, "Opera for People Who Don't Like Opera," that I think of when Nouveau time rolls around.  The "new" French wine is rich, tasty and uncomplicated, just the right choice for people who think they want wine with the multi-course holiday meal, but are not sure which wine to serve.

A bottle or two of Beaujolais Nouveau is the easy and uncomplicated answer.  Or, if you prefer Italian wine, try Lambrusco, the lightly sweet and fizzy red wine from Emilia-Romagna. 

Nouveau Beaujolais is all about  carbonic maceration (CM), a technique whereby whole clusters of Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc ("Black Gamay with White Juice") grapes are loaded into stainless steel fermenters and the bottom clusters are crushed by the weight above.  

Maceration and normal fermentation begin, carbon dioxide gas bathes the grapes, causing each whole grape to become an individual fermenter. The anerobic CM process results in a fresh fruity red wine of modest alcohol that is intended to be consumed before the next year's harvest.

A bit of wine grape trivia: Gamay Noir is not related to the Gamay grape that has red flesh.

Beaujolais is the basic appellation, amounting to about one half of all Beaujolais produced, and is a step up from Nouveau. Beaujolais undergoes a standard red wine fermentation in stainless steel and includes some CM for freshness, through a process called "semi-maceration."  The aim is to make a structured red wine for near term drinking, or aging for one or two years in bottle. 

Beaujolais-Villages, the intermediate grade of Beaujolais from a series of villages in the foothills that must comply to strict vineyard practices and yields.  Village wines are permitted an extra degree of alcohol, and in general, will benefit from a little aging.

The division between simple Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages is an important one.  Basic Beaujolais is the starting point, for quality and price.  Beaujolais-Villages are more concentrated and show more character, and the difference in price is minimal.  The next step up is the small group of village wines known as Beaujolais Crus.

Beaujolais Cru.  Wines from the ten cru appellations are the most complex and capable of long-term aging. Thus, Beaujolais cru are also the most expensive. 

South of the Maconnais border, the Beaujolais Crus are in a line, from light to heavy : Brouilly, Cote de Brouilly, Chiroubes, Régnié, Morgon, Fleurie, Juliénas, Saint-Amour, Chénas and Moulin-à-Vent.  

Expect to pay under $15 for basic Beaujolais, less than that for Nouveau.   Beaujolais-Villages price range is approximately $15 to $30 and Beaujolais Crus are $25 to $75, with a few Moulin-à-Vent closer to $100. 

A misleading claim that has dogged Beaujolais Cru for years suggests that a few of them, such as Moulin-à-Vent, are as complex as Burgundy.  With a couple of years of bottle aging, the two wines may seem similar, but Gamay Noir and Pinot Noir make different wines.

There is no shortage of wine professionals who dismiss Beaujolais as the country hick at a black tie meal.  Far too many restaurant wine lists omit Beaujolais and Nouveau Beaujolais from the wine list because they are not money makers.   

But recent surveys show that wines like Beaujolais are what people want with their meal, so let's take a closer look at the easy pairing of Beaujolais with food. 

Beaujolais with Food 

Since Thanksgiving will be here in less than two weeks, here are a few tips on pairing Beaujolais with holiday food. Foremost is, drink the wine or wines you like best. 

Still, some advisors think, since the Thanksgiving feast is special, you should uncork your best Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.  

I say, save those wines for another meal, and here's why:

Thanksgiving turkey and the variety of side dishes is a mashup of flavors, seasonings and textures.  A big red with ample tannin, like Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, Italian Barolo and Spanish Ribera del Douro, to name a few, will over power delicate turkey white meat, clash with sweet cranberry sauce and get lost with the heavily seasoned dressing (stuffing?) you serve with the bird.  

Chardonnay will pair better than a big red with a wider variety of Thanksgiving dishes, though Chardonnay is better with fish, roast chicken and vegetarian dishes.  A lightly oaked Chardonnay compliments turkey white meat, but an all-purpose white wine, like off-dry Riesling, Viognier, Spanish Albarino, or Italian Orvieto, is the way to go. 

Finally, there are two important things to know about Beaujolais: It is not Burgundy and never will be; and Beaujolais, no matter its pedigree, should be drunk young, within a year, two at the most for Beaujolais Crus.  

 

Next post: Great Barolo

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AI and the future of Wine Writing

                                                                                                                                         Nick Morrison photo

Lately, there has been an uptick in interest about the controversial possibility of  unstoppable artificial intelligence making inroads into all manner of things, from developing autonomous vineyard tractors to "creating" a fake actor.

Indeed, AI seems to be on everyone's radar.  Just since I began writing this post, separate groups of scientists, writers, politicians and fellow techies have written  letters of concern to Big Tech, demanding that AI be reined in. 

But the concern is not new.  Over the last few years, Big Tech has been busy evangelizing about AI and how it will revolutionize the world. 

One of the leaders of the Big Tech cohort is double talk expert, Mark Zukerberg, CEO of Meta and a member of the techie nouveau riche.  Zuckerberg is not alone in the effort to convince American tech consumers of the promise that AI holds for the future. 

I have to be honest; the impact of AI on the future of wine writing is what worries me, especially when the insidious nature of the controversial technological innovation can be used by unscrupulous people to persuade consumers, by bot-created words to buy wine. 

Wine writing is a creative exercise that requires discipline, knowledge and patience.  Although AI is capable of forming sentences into a whole article, in record time, it cannot create the subtleties and nuances that make writing flow.  Nor can AI match the human emotions and impressions needed when describing the taste of a wine.

Another emotion, within the purview of humans, is cynicism.  It is not an admirable personal trait, though I readily admit to nodding yes when people ask if my middle name is Cynic.  It's not, but I'm concerned that the world has become cynical, and I find it too easy to imagine the possibility, powered by the rise of AI, for the wine world to accept AI generated wine writers, or AI wine "influencers."

The very idea of influencers is bad enough, but a fake one could mean real trouble for wine collectors and drinkers.  This fringe element of wine marketing seems to be more interested in self promotion, while ignoring that AI has great potential to do real harm.  

The ability of wine writing to inform and educate consumers about the pleasures of wine as a natural partner with food has always been a strong force.  Where it lacked strength was in persuading people to buy wine. 

Promoters of AI claim that the technology will take the guess work out of the personally satisfying task of deciding on and then buying a bottle of wine.  Even in our complex world, where an increasing number of things have become automated, it is still satisfying to use one's memory and ability to freely make a decision, without artificial assistance. 

I take comfort in believing that AI will never accurately describe how a wine tastes. And to know that the sensory ability to separate various components in a wine, then put those  impressions into meaningful words, belongs to humans, not machines or bots.  

So, I hope that this short essay focuses some light on the possible encroachment of artificial intelligence on our present and future ability to enjoy the simple pleasures of wine, unaided by AI, or whatever artificial "advancement" may be in our future.   

 

Next post: It's Time for Beaujolais

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A Wine Tale of Two Communes

This is a story about how two communes in Bordeaux emerged from relative anonymity to become the celebrated sites of world famous wines.

Prior to 1987, the communes of Pessac and Léognan were simply parts of the notable Graves district, south of the city of Bordeaux.  Pessac and Léognan  are place names that follow the name of a well known chateaux, and rarely stand on their own.

The celebrated Graves chateaux Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion are in Pessac. There are 10 cru classé wines in Léognan, including such celebrated properties as Ch. Domaine de Chevalier and Ch. de Fieuzal. 

What prompted the name change was a claim that one wine was better than another one.  In 1984, a sizeable group of growers and vintners in the northern Graves claimed that their wines were better than those in the south.  Pessac is in the northern Graves and Léognan is near the southern edge of the Graves district. 

To settle the disagreement, the Institut National des Appellations d'Origine (INAO) decreed that the Graves district would henceforth be divided into two districts.  In total, there are 23 wines from 16 chateaux. 

Unfortunately, while the decree raised the recognition of Pessac and Léognan, it lowered the status of the historic name of Graves.  Perhaps the Graves' greatest moment was when the framers of the 1855 Classification of the Médoc included  Chateau Haut-Brion Pessac as the only property in the Graves to be included with four Médoc chateaux as a Premier Cru or First Growth. 

In 1973, the classification was reclassified, elevating Ch. Mouton-Rothschild to  Premier Growth, to date, the only property to ever move up.  Ch. Haut-Brion is the only Graves property listed in the 1855 Classification. 

There is an argument to be made that other Graves properties should have been included in the 1855 Classification, but in 1953 the INAO formulated an official Graves classification, including white wines, that was revised in 1959.  

The 1959 classification lists 23 chateaux, six of which are from Léognan and two from Pessac.  And since the Graves is known for white wines as well as red, there are nine cru classes for white wines from noted properties such as Ch. Bouscaut, Ch. Carbonnieux and Ch. Olivier.

Most Pessac-Léognan chateaux that make a white wine, use mainly Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon grapes, while some chateaux also blend in small percentages of Sauvignon Gris and/or Muscadelle.  This Bordeaux style of sauvignon is drier and more mineral than the tropical fruit styles from California and New Zealand.

Pessac-Léognan red wines follow the standard recipe of five varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot.  Over the years, the fashion has been to use only the first three varieties, with a percentage or two of Petit Verdot and Malbec, if added at all. 

These red wines are seamless, with no single variety dominating the blend.  In fact, it's a tribute to the art of blending that five individual wines form one unified wine with a signature note of dark cherry, subtle herbs and aromatic spices.

The cost of a Pessac-Léognan wine, red or white, averages $150, although the more valued chateaux are considerably higher: Ch. Haut-Brion, $650; Ch. La Mission Haut-Brion, $400. Domaine de Chevalier is a relative bargain at $90.

French laws relating to wine production and labeling are strict and resistant to change.  More is the reason then that the collaboration between the INAO and the French government to classify the wines of Pessac and Léognan is important. 

Next post: AI and the Future of Wine Writing

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Campania

Mount Vesuvius looming over Naples Bay

Mount Vesuvius, the sleeping giant volcano, looming over the Bay of Naples, erupted in 79 AD, covering the Roman city of Pompeii with clouds of deadly ash.  

Over the millennia, compacted layers of ash formed the main component of the distinctive vineyard soils of Campania.  Falernian, the classic wine enjoyed by the Romans, drew its character from the fertile Campanian soil.

In the modern era, the term "wines of antiquity" usually refers to such wines as  Taurasi, Fiano di Avellino, Greco di Tufo and Falanghina.  All of these white wines are made from modern plantings of grapes held over from ancient times, many of which arrived in southern Italy from Greece. 

An aside.  During a trip to southern Italy, I had the pleasure of meeting Antonio Mastroberardino, a quiet studious man who impressed me as being more interested in the ancient history of the grapes of antiquity than the modern wines made from them. 

Perhaps sensing my interest in learning more about the grape and wine history of Campania than seeing another bottling line, Antonio showed me into his spacious office and study.  

Looking more like a library than a winery office, there were scores of books, some describing the evolution of grape varieties, maps of the region, historical maps and charts and photos of the damage to the winery, caused by past earthquakes that had shocked the region.   

As I listened, impressed by this gentle man's knowledge and devotion to a part of wine history I knew little about, Antonio Mastroberardino helped me to appreciate the essence of Campania wine, from grape to glass.

Here are brief sketches of major Campanian grapes and their wines. Except for Taurasi, most of the wines cost under $25. 

Greco di Tufo, the grape name, comes from the village where the grape is planted and the volcanic rock in the vineyards.  Wines must contain a minimum of 85% Greco di Tufo, with up to 15% Coda di Volpa.  Representative Greco di Tufo include Mastroberardino, Feudi San Gregorio, Quintodecimo.

Coda di Volpa means "tail of the fox," the shape of the grape clusters.  DOC Coda di Volpa: 85% Coda di Volpa.  Representative Coda di Volpa: Fattoria La Rivolta, Vadiaperti, Mastroberardino Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco. 

Fiano di Avellino is a highly valued Campanian grape for sweet wines.  The sweet honied smell of the Fiano grape attracts bees, thus the name Fiano.  Avellino is the Campanian town with nearby Fiano vineyards.  Fianos: Guido Marsella, Quintodecimo, Mastroberardino Radici.

Falanghina is thought to be the grape of the noted Roman wine Falernian. It is scented like orange blossoms, pine and apple.  Representative Campanian Falanghina include La Guardiense Janare, Mastroberardino, Feudi di San Gregorio.  Prices run $20 and under.

Campanian red grapes, Piedirosso and Aglianico, were once thought to have Greek heritage, but DNA has shown both grapes to be natives of southern Italy.

Piedirosso means "red feet" in Italian, a fanciful comparison of a vine stem's color to the color of a dove's foot. More popular in blends, such as 50% of Lacryma Christi, than as a varietal, Piedirosso's flavors are plum, cherry, wild berry and a hint of salty mineral.  Good examples are Mastroberardino Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio, Mustilli Piedirosso Sannio, I Pentri Kerres Piedirosso.

Aglianico is the primary grape of Taurasi, arguably the best known wine of Campania and one of Italy's most revered red wines.  Grown in the volcanic soils of the Apennine foothills, Aglianico is smoky, with black cherry, coffee and mineral, and firm tannins.  Aglianico must contribute at least 85% to the blend, with Piedirosso making up the remaining 15 percent.   

Wines made from international varieties, like Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, are everywhere in the wine market.  And while wineries in many parts of Italy work with these wines, Campania wineries offer the unique wines of antiquity. 

Pexels Photo 

Next post: A Wine Tale of Two Communes

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Loire Valley

Recently, I was browsing through some wine articles and noticed that a Master Sommelier, said that Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are over rated. 

That's one person's opinion, and here's another: making such a sweeping statement is not only ridiculous, but it trashes one of the world's best expressions of Sauvignon Blanc, as well as every producer of the popular variety in the eastern Loire Valley.

Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are Loire icons as well as benchmarks for a style of Sauvignon Blanc emulated throughout the world.

The  Loire Valley is one of the most varied wine regions in France. The name Loire is associated with an historic French valley, but at 600 miles, the Loire is the country's longest river, from Muscadet in the Loire-Atlantique, to Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé at the river's eastern origin.  

Climatically, the valley changes from cool marine to warn inland, with gradations along the way influenced by the Loire River. These variations are subtle, but over time, evidence of changes in the environment showed an ideal  match of grape variety and terroir.

The changes happened slowly over the millennia, but by the early 20th century, grape and terroir had long been in place.

Prior to World War II, Loire wines were mostly not known in the United States.  American G-Is, stationed along the Loire Valley, had developed a taste for the Loire wines.  After the war, they asked for Loire wines when they returned home. 

In their off-duty time, the Americans roamed up and down the Loire, enjoying the valley's patchwork of green vineyards, moated castles, geometric gardens,  and fertile fields of grain.

The variety of Loire wines that attracted the Americans is extensive. Take your pick of sparkling Crément de Loire, long-lived Chenin Blancs of Savenniéres, pale pink Rosé d'Anjou, richly textured, full fruit Cabernet Franc of Chinon, crisp mineral laced Sauvignon Blanc, or sweet moelleux Vouvray Chenins. 

Production of many of the Loire wines is small and they mostly are not seen in the U.S. market.  These seven wines, though, are generally available: 

Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, on opposite sides of the upper Loire River, have Sauvignon Blanc in common, but they are different wines.  Sancerre is racy with a mineral undertone.  Pouilly-Fumé is famously for flinty soil and a "smoky," supposedly from the morning mist hanging over the vineyards. Both Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are made in a pure varietal style and an oaked version.  Sancerre is the best known in the United States, although both wines have their champions.  

Chenin Blanc

Vouvray, the noteworthy white wine from the Touraine district, is for Chenin Blanc lovers. Sometimes called Pineau de la Loire, the Chenin Blanc of Vouvray is golden and aromatic, supported by brisk acidity.  Vouvray is versatile, made in dry and medium-dry styles, plus sparkling and sweet versions.

Chinon and Bourgueil are the Loire's two major red wine appellations, in the Touraine district.  The main grape in both wines is Cabernet Franc, although Cabernet Sauvignon is allowed.  Both areas make small amounts of rosé, and Chinon has a little dry Chenin Blanc, while Bourgueil is noted for its long-lived reds. 

Saumur, between Touraine and Anjou, started out as a sweet wine district, then near the end of the 19th century, converted to sparkling and dry red wines made from Cabernet Franc.  A small amount of sweet Chenin Blanc is made in the Coteaux de Saumur appellation.

Muscadet is a dry white wine that, while having seen better days, is still vital.  Made near the mouth of the Loire river from the Melon de Bourgogne grape, most of the wine carries the Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine appellation.  And, there are three others, including the basic Muscat appellation, that can include 10% Chardonnay.  Since the 1980s, Muscadet winemakers have dabbled in lees contact and barrel fermentation.

Today, most of the attention directed at French wine usually settles on Bordeaux and Burgundy.  Fortunately, writers and marketers are looking closely at  alternative wines, including those from the Loire Valley. 

Next post:  Historic Wines of Campania

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Marvelous Mendocino

John Parducci

In the early days of my eager exploration of different wines and wine regions, I thought of Mendocino as an afterthought, a not-too-serious place for wine on the western side of the northern California foothills. 

Then, I met John Parduccci, one of the last of the winemaking farmers, from Mendocino County, who told me about the value and soul of wine long before it became fashionable in the early 1970s. 

Parducci didn't suffer fools gladly.  He was gruff and impatient with pretenders, especially  those who loudly claimed that Mendocino wine was somehow inferior to the wine of Napa Valley.  

In those days, Anderson Valley, a wine mecca on the west edge of Mendocino County, was not as well known as Ukiah, the location of Parducci Wine Cellars.  But I was curious about Anderson Valley wine, so while Parducci poured me one of his latest releases, at the rustic tasting bar in Parducci Cellar's first public tasting room, I asked him about Anderson Valley. 

He deflected my question, steering the conversation back to Ukiah and the vineyards Parducci farmed in that part of the county.  As an early teenager, Parducci worked the family vineyards on an old tractor, causing stress to his back, that showed up later in life.

John Parducci was a proud defender of Mendocino wine and he wanted America's wine drinkers to know about the wines.  

Parducci passed away in 2014, but he would have been happy to know that today Mendocino has a dozen AVAs and produces a range of wines, from Cabernet Sauvignon to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay to Gewurztraminer. 

Anderson Valley is arguably Mendocino's marquee wine region. The western end of the valley opens to the Pacific Ocean, allowing cool breezes to moderate the ripening of richly textured Pinot Noir and crisp flavor-packed white wines like Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Chardonnay. 

Anderson Valley wineries of note include Greenwood Ridge Vineyards, Navarro Vineyard, Goldeneye, Handley Cellars and Husch Vineyard. In 1982, Anderson Valley got a significant boost with the introduction of Roederer Estate sparkling wines,   owned by Roederer Champagne.

East of Anderson Valley, the growing climate is better suited to Bordeaux varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.  The Highway 101 corridor between Hopland and Ukiah is home to Fetzer Bonterra, Brutocao Cellars, Graziano Family and Milano Hopland.  

Paul Dolan, former Fetzer winemaker, promoted sustainable winemaking.  He helped  convert the Fetzer operation to organic and then biodynamic grape growing. Later, he  revamped the Parducci brand to green grape growing and winemaking, at the Mendocino Wine Company location north of Ukiah. 

At the northern end of Mendocino is Redwood Valley,  where the Fetzer family settled before branching out around Mendocino and nearby Lake counties.  Barney Fetzer led his large family in establishing the area for award winning  Zinfandel and Petite Sirah. 

Yorkville Highlands is on the twisting county road out of Cloverdale heading to the ocean, with Yorkville Cellars and Wattlecreek Vineyard, among the highland's few wineries. 

Further west is Mendocino Ridge with its high altitude vineyards in the Coast Range. Once a part of Anderson Valley, the  Mendo Ridge Riesling and Gewurztraminer show the same intense varietal character.

In a word, Mendocino is "marvelous" for the variety of wines it offers the wine consumer: cool climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Anderson Valley to Cabernet Sauvignon from the warmer interior Ukiah and Redwood Valley. 

 

Next post: Loire Valley

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Wines of the Andes

Andes backdrop for Mendoza vineyards

While browsing in your favorite wine shop for South American wines, the ones you're most likely to find are from Argentina and Chile. You might spot the odd wine from Uruguay or Brazil, but the best selections you're likely to see are from South America's two main producers. 

History is uncertain concerning the introduction of European varieties into South America. One theory says that Spanish explorers brought vines into Peru.  Another version maintains that European settlers carried dried grape seeds with them, while another account has missionary monks bringing vines from Europe, for the Eucharist.

However they got there, vinifera vines were introduced in Argentina and Chile sometime after the beginning of the 16th century.  Coming forward a few hundred years opens a current window on South America's major wine regions.

Argentina

A brief glance can help to understand how Argentina is unique  among South American  wine regions. Uruguay and Brazil's Do Sul state share an eastern border, with Paraguay, Bolivia and Peru along the northern part of Argentina. 

South America's massive Andes mountains forms the natural north-south border separating the two countries.  Argentina, the continent's leading wine producer, forms most of the eastern flank of the snow-capped Andes. 

Argentina's wine history is rich and varied, and like other world wine regions, it  was developed and expanded by Catholic missionaries that spread the gospel by supplying wine for the spirit and the stomach.

Mendoza Valley, Argentina's prime wine region, lies at the eastern foot of the Andes, hundreds of miles from the Atlantic Ocean.  Although the majority of the vineyards in the Mendoza are on the relatively flat valley floor, cooler growing conditions are achieved at higher altitudes. In the northern districts of Jujoy and Salta, full-bodied Bordeaux and Rhone varieties are planted between 5,000 and 10,000 feet. 

Malbec was introduced by the mid-19th century, along with other French varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Charbono, known as Bonarda in Argentina.  Although Malbec has lost interest in Bordeaux, the red grape  has become an all-star variety in Argentina.  

The center of production for Malbec in Mendoza, is Lujan de Cuyo.  East of Lujan, the district of Maipu is known for rich, concentrated red wines. Other districts are Uco Valley and southernmost San Rafael, with its reputation for concentrated red varietals.

A selection of white grapes is more limited in Mendoza. Chardonnay is widely planted, especially in the Calchaqui Valley.  But Argentina's signature white wine is Torrontes, with its attractive aromatic, floral character.  

North of Mendoza, the province of San Juan is Argentina's second biggest wine producing region. Warmer than Mendoza, San Juan is known for Malbec, Syrah and Torrontes. 

Further north, the adjoining regions of Salta, Jujoy, Tucuman and Catamarca are known for high altitude vineyards.  The benefit of going higher is more than 300 sun days a year, but the downside is lower yields.  A variety of grapes is planted in the four regions, including Tannat, the red variety that has done well in neighboring Uruguay.

                          

Chile

Whether by intention or chance occurrence, the focus on wine is different for Chile and Argentina.  Chile's numerous wine regions are protected from continental heat by the Andes mountains and by the cold Pacific Ocean, along the coast of Peru in the north, to Tierra del Fuego, at the southern tip of South America.  

No country in the world is as restricted as Chile about where vineyards can be planted. Although Chile is nearly 3,000 miles long, the main area of wine production is concentrated in an area, 60 miles at the widest point, so the vineyard sites are squeezed between the Andes mountains and the Pacific Ocean.   

A counterpart in the Northern Hemisphere would be southern Spain to North Africa. In Chile, though, the heat at these latitudes is mitigated by the cold Humboldt current, running the 3,000 mile length of Chile's coastline. 

Chile has no fewer than 17 wine regions, from Maipo, the largest and most celebrated for Cabernet Sauvignon, to Casablanca, the smallest, with a reputation for Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

North of the capital city of Santiago is Aconcagua, an east-west region, known for classic Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, principally from Viña Errazuriz. 

Cool climate whites, notably Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay are the key wines of  Casablanca, a small region situated close to the cooling Pacific Ocean.  The icy Humboldt current provides the cooling and morning fog.  Although white wines built the region's international reputation, Casablanca is also home to Chile's best Pinot Noir.

Maipo, Curico and Maule are the leading producers in Chile's Central Valley.  Maipo is the most famous, especially for Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, but also Merlot and Carmenere.  With more than 84,000 acres under vines, Maule is Chile's largest wine region, mainly for Chardonnay and Semillon. 

There are hundreds of wines, from as many wine areas, to chose from, but the dynamic wineries in Argentina and Chile, offer variety and good value. 

 

Next post: Marvelous Mendocino

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Are high prices fueling wine's decline?

 

                                                                                                                                                   Pexels photo

"Perhaps one reason for wine's decline in the US is the effort afoot to make it a favorite billionaires' delicious pastime as a necessity.  I mean, really, a $500 vineyard tour, or a $250 wine tasting?"

That's Jo Diaz (www.wine-blog.org), colleague and fellow wine blogger, letting off a little steam in one of her recent posts, under the title"Wine Decline, But Not In My Home." 

Diaz was speculating about why interest in wine is stagnating in this country, as have  some other wine scribes.  It's a complex dilemma with no one single reason.  

But, have you looked at the price of high-end wine lately?  Granted, everything is expensive today.  And while highly regarded wine caters to a small segment of the wine market, the projected image from these prices says wine is only for the wealthy.  

Some examples of wine prices I've seen lately are heart stopping.  The online wine locator, Wine-Searcher has been running a series of articles listing the ten most expensive wines from various places, like "The Most Expensive Bordeaux."  

Here are prices of 11 wines, from must-have places., as posted on Wine-Searcher:

Bass Philip Reserve Gippsland, New Zealand Pinot Noir, $880

Chateau Haut-Brion Blanc, Graves, Bordeaux, $943

Harlan Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, $1,500 

Screaming Eagle Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc, $3400

Chateau Le Pin Pomerol, $3,700 

Screaming Eagle Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, $3,800

Chateau Petrus Pomerol, $4,600 

Dom Perignon P3 Plenitude Brut Champagne, $5,225

Ghost Horse Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, $6,000

Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Ermitage Cuvee Cathelin Rhone, $9,500

Leroy Domaine d'Auvenay Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru Burgundy, $26,000 

Of course, there is always a market for these wines, at any price.  Unfortunately, the rare and pricey will always be attractive to those who only seek status, or will pay any price for an object that few others can afford. 

Some of the things supporting the theory that some wineries are charging unreasonable high prices simply because they can, include:  

Wine is such a pleasure that it's unconscionable for anyone to price it beyond the budget of many wine drinkers...wine prices might be lower were it not for the three-tier system of controlling the pricing and supply of wine...there is a certain level of arrogance and greed by some winery owners who believe it is their privilege to fleece the very consumers that keep them in  business..."it is what it is" does not qualify as a justification for price gouging.

All that being said, I would add that wine doesn't exist in a vacuum, and those making and selling it need to make a profit.  And, while operating costs continue to rise,  wineries are justified in setting a reasonable increase for their wine prices.

There will always be expensive wine that is unattainable for many wine consumers, and that high cost will force most shoppers toward affordable alternatives.  We can only hope that more people discover wine and that all wine consumers find a comfortable price that will encourage them toward more wine sales.  

I'm going to do my part by continuing to educate and inform folks through this blog. 

 

Next post:  Wine of the Andes

Leave a comment at boydvino707@gmail.com  

  

 

 

Chardonnay Styles

Chardonnay in the shade

No one reading this little essay will be surprised to hear that Chardonnay remains the nation's best selling white wine.  Or, that Chardonnay rules in most of the world's wine drinking countries. 

According to 2024 data, Chardonnay  is the most planted white wine grape in the world.  Same for California, where French Colombard, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscat of Alexandria round out the top five. 

I find it surprising that Colombard and Pinot Gris beat out Sauvignon Blanc.  No question that Pinot Gris has been having its day, and maybe still is.  Colombard, though, is another matter.  After a major brush with popularity in France and California, interest in Colombard as a wine grape has been waning.  

At one time, in France, Colombard was a traditional part of Cognac and Armagnac, but it proved unreliable in the vineyard, and plantings have been shrinking. 

In California's Central Valley, where its known as French Colombard, large quantities of the variety are used to fill out jug wine blends.  And because of its neutral character, the French Colombard is a favorite of brandy distillers.

As for Chardonnay, when you think of how many white wine grapes there are, it's impressive that a single grape, with relatively little varietal flavor, is such a market beater in the wine shop, the restaurant and the home dining room.

So, it would be worth knowing why Chardonnay is on so many people's wish list.  And, what is it about Chardonnay that has people asking for it more often than great white wines like Riesling, or Sauvignon Blanc, or Sémillon, or Gewürztraminer?

The Taste of Chardonnay

A semi-popular trend that circulated around California and Washington not long ago was the emergence of unoaked Chardonnay.  Styles went from lots of oak, to no oak, to a little oak, finally to a balanced use of oak as a seasoning.  Lately, winemakers in both states have been pretty good getting the oak seasoning just right.

And the oak is all from French forests.  No winery, known for Chardonnay, ages it in American, Slovenian, German, Italian, Spanish, Hungarian, or oak from anywhere else.

Looking at Chardonnay sans oak, then, there are primary ripe fruit flavors such as  lemons, grapefruit, apples, pears, honeysuckle, roasted nuts, supported by crisp acidity.  Chardonnay from warmer vineyards can lean more toward peach and tropical fruit like pineapple.

Old World and New World

The world of Chardonnay is stylistically split between old world Burgundy, and a New World style, predominately from California and Australia.  Italy, Spain, Germany and Portugal are considered old world.  But, except for northern Italy, the others grow very little Chardonnay.  

White Burgundy flavors  include Granny Smith apple, mineral and bracing acidity.  New World Chardonnay tends to be more ripe fruit, especially mango, passion fruit and Golden Delicious apples.

All of the above are generalizations, since there are many factors that influence the style of any Chardonnay: terroir, clonal selection, use of oak, vineyard orientation, winemaker's preferences, and others.

The important thing is to experiment and sample Chardonnays from different places, until you find the one or two wines that appeal to you the most.  

Unsplash photo 

 

Next post: "You've Gotta Be Joking!" 

Leave a comment at boydvino707@gmail.com 

The Barossa

Storm clouds over Barossa vineyard

In South Australia, a short distance from Adelaide, is a wine region with an international reputation, especially for flavor packed red wine.  Aussie shorthand for the place is"The Barossa."  

But say it like a native, compressing the word so that it sounds like "Ber-ossa," not "Ber-ross-a."  The full name is the Barossa Valley, Australia's premiere producer of a signature red wine, known as Shiraz. 

Syrah is one of the world's best known and best red wines.  The benchmark for world class  Syrah is the northern Rhone Valley of France.  Australians, though, decided to call Syrah after what they believed to be the grape's city of origin, in a land far from France. 

In the 19th century, Australians believed the origin of the Syrah grape was Shiraz, the ancient capital of Persia.  DNA testing eventually proved this wrong, but the Australian wine business had established the name Shiraz, so ever after, the name stuck.

Barossa Shiraz is at the big and robust end of the Syrah style scale. The wines are rich, ripe and concentrated with plenty of dark fruit flavors.  And it is the antithesis  of northern Rhone Syrah, like Cote Rotie, that is all refined smoky spice and raspberry.  

Aside.  In 1993 (Has it been that long ago?) I had the good fortune to be invited as one of two international judges for Penfolds Rewards of Patience, a comprehensive tasting of Penfolds wines, stretching back to the 1950s, held at the Penfolds main winery in Nuriootpa, Barossa Valley.

The marathon tasting of multiple vintages of 13 red wines, seven white wines and a handful of "Special Bin" wines, lasted three days, standing at a tasting bench, and included such vaunted tasting of 22 vintages of the legendary Penfolds Grange. 

Shiraz, the iconic Barossa red wine was represented by five blends (most, like the Grange, blended with 15-20% Cabernet Sauvignon) and three 100% varietal Shiraz: Magill Estate, Coonawarra, Kalimna. 

Common descriptors for the 100% Shiraz, mentioned by most judges, were chocolate, plum, mulberry, spice and saddle leather. The addition of Cabernet Sauvignon, in the Shiraz/Cabernet blends, shifted the descriptors more to blackberry, leafy and anise.  

Of course, life is not all Shiraz, even in The Barossa.  After all, what would life be like without Cabernet Sauvignon or even Grenache, two reds that are part of the mix in the Barossa Valley and neighboring Eden Valley, officially a part of The Barossa.   

Here's a brief look at what to expect from Barossa's main grapes: 

Cabernet Sauvignon: deep in color, with forward cherry and plum flavors; excellent as a varietal and in blends, such as Penfolds Bin 707, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz.  

Grenache: ripe raspberry, fine tannin and good acidity; Barossa draws its depth and complexity from a high percentage of old vine Grenache.

Mourvedre: called Mataro by Barossa old timers, Mourvedre is dense and herbal, mostly from old vines that can also impart ginger and ripe blackberry notes. 

Riesling: still the most planted white grape in The Barossa, the variety is known for its intense tropical fruit and citrus flavors, such as the range of Rieslings from Wolf Blass. 

Chardonnay: not a star player in The Barossa, but is full bodied with crisp acidity and ripe apple flavors.

Semillon: the Barossa style follows the robust full-bodied Australian style for this popular white wine.  Barossa Semillon, especially aged in American oak, is rich and figgy. 

As a seasoned wine drinker, or an advocate expanding your wine knowledge of Australian wine, a good starting place is the Barossa Valley.  In the words of the Down Under's noted wine writer, James Halliday, "The Barossa Valley is, and always will be, the womb of the Australian wine industry."

 

Next post: Chardonnay Styles 

Leave a comment at boydvino707@gmail.com 

Touring Tuscany

A Tuscan house on a hill

In 1996, the saturated genre of lifestyle books was rocked by the release of "Under the Tuscan Sun," a glossy memoir about life in a small town in Tuscany.  In the highly descriptive account, American author, Frances Mayes, detailed the joys and frustrations of restoring a run-down villa, in the scenic hilltop town of Cortona. 

Mayes infused her story with colorful characters and recounted her experiences enjoying local food and wines.  Her personal tale ignited the imaginations of American readers looking for new travel adventures.  

For years, savvy wine tourists knew about Tuscany and loved the place, but Mayes' book opened new vistas for people discovering one of Italy's most beautiful and magical wine regions for the first time. 

Tuscany radiates a quality that is hard to describe. But to truly understand why people are so crazy about the place, you have to go there.  There's the Tuscan landscape, the art, the towns, the medieval architecture, the Etruscan history and, of course, the people and their passion for the local food and wine.

Perhaps, nowhere else in Italy, does all of these attractions meld into one satisfying package as in Tuscany.  

A visit to Tuscany is a stimulating experience. Pulling off the road for a break you might see two carabiniere having their espresso with a  shot of anisette, enjoy a performance of Puccini's "Madama Butterfly" in the Florence opera house, or learn about the wide variety of Tuscan grapes and wine. 

Sangiovese is the principal red grape of Tuscany.  Not only is Sangiovese a major variety in Tuscan wine, but it's grown nearly everywhere along the Italian peninsula, except south of Rome and Sicily, where hardier red grapes are better suited to withstand the sustained higher daytime heat and sultry nights.

The taste of Sangiovese might be described as savory, with traces of tart cherries and herbs.  A lot of Sangiovese, especially California as a varietal, is masked by vanilla notes from new oak.  Tuscan Sangiovese, sometimes blended with a little (or a lot) of Cabernet Sauvignon, can be overshadowed by the more dominant flavors of the cabernet.  

 Tuscan Sangiovese forms the base for Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino. Additionally, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah are blended with Sangiovese in proprietary wines like Sassicaia and Ornellaia.

 An aside. My first visit to Tuscany was in the early 1950s. I was a young airman, stationed in Germany, with a curiosity to see as much of Europe as I could afford.  So, my friend Tom and I took off on a road trip to Italy in my 1950 Chevy Bel-Air. 

We were headed for Naples and the Isle of Capri, slowly navigating a route that took us through Tuscany on pokey two-lane roads. No maps and, of course, no GPS. I didn't know about Tuscany then, even though our destination that day was the city of Florence. 

Tom Indelicato, an Italian-American from Queens, had  a New Yorker's understanding of Italian food and wine. As a growing boy, I ate a lot of Italian food at the table of a large welcoming family my mother worked for, at their Italian deli and Hoagie shop in suburban Philly. 

Even with our limited experience of Italian food, Tom and I were impressed with the quality of food and wine we sampled on our way through Tuscany, and how eager we were to eat as much of it as we could during our travels.  

It may sound like an exaggeration, but after numerous visits, I'm convinced that you have to work hard to find poor food and average wine in Italy. 

Reliving the pleasures, especially the wines of Tuscany I was introduced to in the 1950s, have been repeated numerous times on return visits as a wine writer.  

There are at least six distinct varieties in Italy called Trebbiano, including Trebbiano Toscano, the main white variety in Galestro.  Vernaccia is the other notable Tuscan  white grape, used in Vernaccia di San Gimignano.

Trebbiano is also grown mainly as a blending grape or as the base wine for distillates.  The French call it Ugni Blanc. In California, Trebbiano has unexplainably been known as St. Emilion.  And because of its somewhat bland character, the grape picked up the derisive name,"Ugly Blank."   

The best effort to make a respectable Trebbiano is not in Tuscany, where the ordinary  Trebbiano Toscano often presents as a high acid, somewhat green leafy wine, better suited blended with another variety or as the base wine for grape spirits.  Where Trebbiano shows more personality is in Soave Classico and Lugana, both from Venetto.  

 A few more Tuscan wines to consider include Vermentino and Vernaccia di San Giminano, two white wines not as widely known as Trebbiano, although Trebbiano is not as interesting as either Vermentino or Vernaccia. 

International varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah are popular choices blended with Sangiovese, mainly in Chianti and Bolgheri.  Cabernet Franc is an alternate variety, with Cabernet Sauvignon, in Carmignano. 

Few places in the world combine the pleasures of good food and great wine in a relaxing setting as Tuscany.  Thousands of other travelers have discovered the irresistible attraction of Tuscany, but there's still room for the adventurous. 

Unsplash photo 

 

Next post:  The Barossa 

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