Rhine Rieslings

Note: An odd usage convention refers in print to a certain German river and wine region(s). For the English speaker, Rhine (river) is easier to understand than the German word Rhein. But the names of the wine regions - Rheingau, Rheinpfalz and Rheinhessen - are more pleasing to the eye in German than the awkward "Rhinegau." Thus, all of the following references of Rhine and Rhine regions, will be English and German, respectively.  

 

                                                

Riesling is often mentioned as the greatest white wine grape on the planet.  If so, why isn't wine made from Riesling more popular?

Germany's Rhine region is frequently cited as the source of the greatest white wine made.  If so, why doesn't Rhine Riesling sell better than, say, Chardonnay, which happens to be the planet's best-selling white wine.

Riesling is made in smaller quantities than Chardonnay, in such far flung places as Australia, Northern Italy, Finger Lakes, Alsace, Washington state, New Zealand.  Yet, in many of these same places, wine shoppers will reach for a bottle of Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc and pass right by the Rhine Riesling. 

"Meininger's International" report on the share of the 2024 market had Other Whites (including Riesling) at less than 1%, while Chardonnay held 21% of the market.  Although both white wines showed an increase, they lagged behind the dominance of red wine sales.

Taste preference is certainly a factor for avoiding Riesling, but surely there is more.  So, lets look at why Riesling, and in particular Rhine Riesling, is not a better seller. 

✔ Riesling is perceived as a sweet wine, although some are dry; Chardonnay is perceived as a dry wine, although some are sweet.

There are two kinds of wine making: Wine made by a winemaker that you can taste, such as intended sweetness; and wine made in the imagination of a marketer or salesperson.  Stylistically, the winemaker's wine is as advertised.  For years, though, we've been told by marketing and sales that Riesling is a sweet wine. To be sure, there are sweet Rieslings, but there are dry Rieslings as well, like German Trocken (dry)  and Halbtrocken (off-dry) Riesling.

✔  German wine language is hard to read and understand, especially on German wine labels.

Ask six people to pronounce Gewürztraminer and you'll likely hear six different pronunciations.  The word is pronounced geh-vairtz-tra-mee-ner, with emphasis on "vairtz" and "mee."  And the two dots over the letter ü is an umlaut, or diacritical mark placed over a vowel to give the letter a different sound.  That can be confusing to the non-German speaking wine drinker, especially when reading a German wine label.  In recent years, the German wine industry has worked to simplify label language, but it is what it is and the language will not change.

 ✔ Consumers don't understand the difference between Rieslings from the Rheingau, Rheinpfalz, and Rheinhessen.

While the flavor characteristics can vary greatly depending on vineyard terroir, in general Rheingau Rieslings are mineral-rich and long lived.  Rheinhessen Rieslings have more of the typical peach and citrus flavors.  Rheinpfalz (now known as Pfalz) Rieslings are full bodied and dry with citrus notes.

✔ Wine buyers, perhaps subconsciously, reach for Chardonnay in a familiar shaped bottle, but shy away from the unfamiliar tall flute-like shape of a German wine bottle.

Bottle shape and color are subtle buying aids.  Consumers have been conditioned to recognize Chardonnay in the modern slope-shoulder, dead leaf green colored Burgundy bottle.  There's some question, though, about what wine is in that tall green (Rhine and Moselle) or brown (Rhine) flute-shaped bottle?  

This list of reasons why Riesling doesn't sell better is not exhaustive, but it is an indication of four possible things that may explain what Rhine Rieslings are all about, especially when compared to Chardonnay.  

Understanding Rhine Riesling, and all German wine, requires a definition of terms, not something most wine drinkers bother with, but knowing the ins and outs of German wine standards is essential to knowing the style of wine you're buying.  

Qualitatswein: Germany's largest wine category, known as QBA, vary in sweetness  and alcohol depending on the rules of the region where the wine is produced.  QBA wines may contain added sugars (Chaptalized).

Kabinett: The lightest of the six Prädikat "wines of distinction," that may not be Chaptalized.  Finished alcohol range for Kabinett is 9-11%.  

Spätlese: A Prädikat wine that means "late harvest." Defined by must weight, Spätlesen finished alcohol is 10-12%. A spatlese is noticeably sweet, but balanced with steely acidity.

Auslese: This Prädikat wine means "selected harvest."  Auslesen are sweet and long-lived.  It is at this level and above when the grapes are often botrytized, resulting in a complex sweet wine with a unique flavor. 

Beerenauslese: Full-on botrytized Prädikat wine, rich, sweet character and strongly influenced by botrytis.  Beerenauslese means "berry select" and by some estimates it is the ultimate dessert wine.

Trockenbeerenauslese: Just when you thought Rhine Rieslings couldn't get any more luscious, there is Trockenbeerenauslese or "TBA," botrytized sweet wines made from grapes shriveled on the vines. Quantities are sometimes so small that the wine is made in glass demijohns, with fermentation often taking up to a year or more to reach the required 5.5% alcohol for TBA.

You may not agree with those who say Riesling stands at the top of the world's best white wines, or that Rhine Riesling is the leader, but Riesling's complex flavors grow on you.  And to help in your discovery,   here's a quick look at the character of Riesling and why you should consider Rhine Riesling next time you make a white wine purchase.

                                       

 Common descriptors for Riesling are citrus, honeysuckle, jasmine, fruit salad, mineral, Granny Smith apples, marzipan, peaches, apricots.  Riesling has fruit sweetness, and certain styles also have residual sweetness, but there is always sufficient zesty acidity, to keep the wine from cloying. 

Riesling trocken from the Rhine is a good match with shell fish and Chinese and Thai food.  Sweeter Riesling Halbtrocken and Spätlese are perfect with fish or white meat in a light cream sauce. You'll need the weight and sweetness of Auslese for dessert.

Finally, if you haven't yet had the pleasure, next time you're dining at a Thai or Chinese restaurant, check the wine list for a Rheingau Halbtrocken (half dry or off dry). 

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