Alsace in Anderson

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Until recently, interest in wine was making slow but steady progress.  But then, anti-alcohol advocates spoiled the party with a scare campaign and wine sales slowed to a crawl.  Of course, it wasn't all because of anti-alcohol.  There were those saying the problem might also be changing lifestyles and the emergence of a new generation interested more in other beverages.

To be sure, finding innovative ways to attract more wine drinkers has become more challenging, but not impossible.  So, what to do?  How to overcome shifting interests by adjusting the focus to something different?

Showing the curious what you do best is a proven strategy, proposed by a small group of wineries in western Mendocino's Anderson Valley.  Husch Vineyards, Navarro Vineyards, Handley Cellars and Lazy Creek Vineyards banded together in 2006 to form a  festival promoting aromatic white wines, that say Anderson Valley. 

An idea was hatched to feature Alsace-style aromatic white wines the Anderson Valley is known for -- Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc -- at the Anderson Valley Alsace White Wine Festival, now known as the Anderson Valley International White Wine Festival.

Aromatic white grapes don't do well in warmer parts of California.  But in Anderson Valley,   the climate is just right, with warm days to ripen the grapes, and cool nights to develop clearly defined varietal character and crisp acidity.

The harmonization of these conditions come together along the valley's 16-mile long  narrow corridor that opens in the west to the cool Pacific Ocean.  Morning fog and cool daytime breezes, drawn in by inland warmth, balance the growing conditions for grapes to make aromatic white wines. 

                                                  

Riesling is the leading white grape in Germany's northern Rhine and Mosel valleys, and across the Rhine River in the Alsace region of France.  By one measure, Riesling is the world's greatest white grape, no contest.  Other folks claim the greatest is Chardonnay. But Riesling is more versatile, capable of making stunning dry, off-dry and sweet wines, something Chardonnay can't claim. 

Anderson Valley wineries have continuously shown an ability to make all of these styles.  Riesling can be dry or sweet and do it with charm. At its most characteristic, Riesling has ample peach and apricot flavors, with mineral and citrus peel notes.  And with maturity, Riesling displays characteristic petrol accents. 

 Anderson Valley Riesling: Greenwood Ridge Vineyards, Toulouse Vineyards, Navarro Vineyards. 

                                          

 Gewurztraminer is more aromatic than Riesling, with upfront exotic spice and lychee notes. Americans, though, are not that familiar with the scent of lychee outside of Asian food scenes.  More often, people say Gewurztraminer reminds them of the smell of roses.

Gewurztraminer started out as Traminer in Italy's northern Alto Adige region, moved north to Germany, then west to Alsace, across the Rhine in France.  Much later, the grape was brought to the U.S. west coast. 

Anderson Valley wineries show a stronger preference for Gewurztraminer than Riesling. Over the years, Navarro Vineyards, among others, has made award-winning dry and late-harvest Gewurztraminers.  

Anderson Valley Gewurztraminer: Handley Cellars, Husch Vineyards, Toulouse Vineyards, Fathers & Daughters Cellars, Navarro Vineyards, Philo Ridge Vineyards. 

                                                

Pinot Gris smells like honey, ripe pears and exotic spices.  Although not as well known as either Riesling or Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, in the same family as Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc, is made by a handful of Anderson Valley wineries. 

Anderson Valley Pinot Gris: Lichen Estate, Breggo Cellars, Toulouse Vineyards, Long Meadow Ranch, Handley Cellars, Navarro Vineyards.

                                                  

Pinot Blanc is often mistaken for Chardonnay.  And, with a little oak, it does smell and taste like Chardonnay, although Pinot Blanc is not as popular.  Sans oak, Pinot Blanc smells like apples, melons and sometimes with an earthy note.

Anderson Valley Pinot Blanc: Navarro Vineyards, Handley Cellars.  

The two-day Anderson Valley International White Wine Festival, February 15-16, will be held at the Mendocino County Fairgrounds in Boonville.  The Grand Tasting, at which more than 40 wineries will pour their white wines, will be on Saturday, with winery open houses, on Sunday. 

Next blog: Malbec

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