Armagnac

  

                                                                                                      Image: European Waterways

Armagnac, the great Gascon brandy, was first distilled in the 17th century, although the origin of the storied eau de vie dates back to the 13th century, making Armagnac the world's oldest brandy.  

The popularity of Armagnac spread quickly throughout Gascony and by 1841, the French author Alexandre Dumas wrote that his roguish Musketeer, d'Artagnan, had been inspired to heroic exploits by Armagnac, or so the legend goes. 

Gascony, in southwestern France, is famous for truffles, the delicacy paté de foie gras, the Three Musketeers and Armagnac. The Gascon spirit is one of two famous French brandies, the other being Cognac,  distilled north of Bordeaux. 

Grapes and distillation are the two main differences that distinguish Armagnac from Cognac.  A blend of Baco 22A, Colombard, Folle Blanche and Ugni Blanc gives Armagnac the distinct aromatics of dried fruits, vanilla, roasted nuts and alcohol.  Ugni Blanc, the grape of Cognac, produces a more refined, delicate brandy, marked by floral notes.

The base wine for Armagnac is distilled in a continuous or column still and Cognac is the product of single batch pot still. 

                                                           Armagnac Facts

* Annual production of Armagnac is about 3 million bottles, while Cognac tops out at 220 million bottles.

* The latest addition to Armagnac is Blanche d'Armagnac, a clear un-aged "white" brandy.

* The "angel's share," or part des anges, is the amount of Armagnac in a barrel that evaporates and is visible as black mold on distillery buildings. 

* Though opinions differ, mature Armagnac does not age in wood beyond 15-20 years and should be racked into glass demi-johns or carboys that range in capacity from one to 16 gallons.

* Rancio is the smell of ripe cheese, overripe fruit,  sometimes metallic that develops from spirits that spend an extended time aging in wood. Rancio is common in wood aged brandy, such as Armagnac. 

Pot stills, of one design or another, have been in use for centuries; the Moors used a pot still to make alcohol for perfumes and medicines.  Today's modern pot stills, so-called because the bulbous shape is like a cooking pot, is in use throughout the Cognac region, as well as Scotland, for the distilling of single malt Scotch whisky.   Following the completion of a distillation, pot stills must be re-charged for the next round.

In 1830, Aeneas Coffey, an Irish inventor and distiller, revolutionized distilling with the invention of the continuous or column still.  The Coffey still is more efficient than a pot still, produces a higher concentration of alcohol, is easier to operate, and because it uses steam for distilling, there is no danger of burning the distillate, like in a wood-fired pot still.  The Coffey still runs continuously and does not need re-loading after each distillation.

Raw Armagnac must be matured in oak barrels and the alcohol level adjusted before bottling.  Armagnac is aged in oak mainly from the Limousin forest, but also Allier and Vosges forests.  Traditional Armagnac was once aged in Gascon Black Oak.

Armagnac is sold at these levels of maturity: 

3 Star or VS is a blend with at least one year of aging in oak

VSOP is aged in barrel for at least four years

XO and Hors d'Age, aged for a minimum of 10 years

Vintage or Single Year, 10 years minimum

Armagnac is traditionally enjoyed at room temperature, from a balloon or tulip glass, as an aperitif or at the end of a meal.  A bottle of VS Armagnac costs about $50.00, with prices climbing to $200-$300 for older Vintage bottlings.   

These are a few popular brands of Armagnac: Chateau de Laubade VS, $47; De Montal VSOP, $56; Janneau VSOP, $58; Delord Napoleon Bas Armagnac, $48; Delord 25-Year Bas Armagnac, $198 and 1984 Bas-Armagnac, $265.

Temperatures are falling outside, but you can ignore the chill with a glass of warming Armagnac. 

 

Next post: It's Time for Gamay 

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