Bordeaux in Tuscany

               

Mention Tuscany and most wine drinkers think of Chianti, or maybe  Brunello di Montalcino, or Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.  There is a common thread running through this classic trio of Tuscan red wines:  Sangiovese.

Sangiovese has been the main variety for years along the narrow strip of land on Tuscany's Maremma coast.  But since 1995, Sangiovese has had to share the top spot, mainly in Bolgheri, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, red grapes more at home in Bordeaux than Tuscany. 

Before 2011, production of Bolgheri wine was mostly blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, supplemented with Syrah and Cabernet Franc up to 50% in the blend. The blending approach was soon changed with the introduction of Sassicaia, and a new concept to be called Super Tuscan.

Sassicaia, Bolgheri's noteworthy Cabernet Sauvignon-based Super Tuscan, is owned by the Marchese Incisa della Rocchetta, who was the first to plant Cabernet Sauvignon in Bolgheri in the 1940's.  Although it seems quaint today, the Marquis' goal was to have a house wine, not to someday make an Italian red wine fashioned after a great Bordeaux. 

The Bolgheri DOC was created in 1983, but oddly, only for white and pink wine.  It took another 11 years for the DOC to be amended to include red wine. Then, in 1994, the Sassicaia zone was established. 

 Sassicaia, a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc, is made in the Bordeaux style, aged in French oak barriques, and marketed by Antinori. The barrique bordelaise, often called the "chateau" barrel, holds 59 gallons of wine. 

Cabernet Sauvignon, a decidedly non-Italian grape has, never-the-less, brought fame and fortune to the coastal area, as well as the Marchese Rocchetta.  Sassicaia retails for $300.

Ornellaia, Bolgheri's other prestigious Super-Tuscan, is made by Frescobali, a major landholder in Tuscany.  Until 2000, Frescobaldi concentrated on Tuscany, then the wine company branched out first to Friuli, then in 2004, it purchased the Ornellaia estate in northern Bolgheri.

The name Ornellaia means "ash tree," common in the northern part of Bolgheri. Made in the Bordeaux style, the wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with small percentages of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, then aged in French oak barriques.  Although Ornellaia is a Super Tuscan, priced at about $250, it stands on its own as one of Tuscany's best-known Cabernet Sauvignons.  

Primarily, soils in Bolgheri and Bordeaux are quite different, as are basic wine making techniques.  Even though both Sassicaia and Ornellaia are made from the same grapes, they have different flavors and structures. The percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon is higher in Sassicaia, so the dominant flavor is black fruits. Merlot provides a heightened presence of fruitiness and softer tannins, while the addition of Cabernet Franc in Ornellaia gives the wine a hint of blueberry. 

Tignanello, a Chianti Classico, not from Bolgheri, is usually included in the top three of Super Tuscan wines. Owned by Marchesi Antinori, Tignanello, a popular blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, is classified as an IGT Sangiovese.  Tignanello is the first Sangiovese to be aged in barriques and the first Chianti Classico to not include white grapes in the blend. 

Tignanello has the subtle scent of cooked tomatoes, with a distinct tart pie cherry flavor, characteristics of Sangiovese dominated blend, and distinctly different from Cabernet Sauvignon. Thus,  Tignanello, about $175, is a different style of Super Tuscan.  Super Tuscan (or Supertuscan) is a term first used in the 1970s to describe a Bordeaux blend aged in barriques.  Super Tuscans are IGT wines, which replaced vino da tavola in 1992.  

Next post: California's "Other" Wine Regions

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My Favorite Wine

 

The Burgundian truffle sniffer

I'm often asked by well-meaning people: "What's your favorite wine?" I could dismiss them with the cliched, "Well, that's like asking me to pick my favorite child."

Although, when asked the question wine writers most hate to hear, I usually just force a smile and reply: "I don't have a favorite," or "All of the wines I taste are my favorites."  

But, I'd be lying.  Truth is, I've always had a favorite wine.  As far back as the late 1950s, when I  had my first epiphany, the wine I kept coming back to is red Burgundy.  And, if I couldn't afford Burgundy (Who can? ), then I'd happily drink Pinot Noir from California, New Zealand, Oregon, Victoria, Australia and anywhere else that's making good Pinot Noir.

Fans of Burgundy and Pinot Noir may tell you, without hesitation, that it is the most sensuous of red wines, packed with textured flavors  and gobs of dark cherry and ripe plum,  supported by tannin and acidity that are never harsh or intrusive.   One sip and you know that this is a wine designed for pleasure.

Savoring a favorite red Burgundy is like eating food you never tire of, especially a dish enhanced with Burgundian truffles.   And there are many positive and satisfying things to say about Burgundy and Pinot Noir, how soon will it be until I get another glass? 

When I was a young boy, my mother worked for an Italian deli, in suburban Philadelphia, known for its hoagies.  Even though, I am a strict vegetarian, the memory of Italian cold cuts, provolone cheese, tomato and lettuce, Italian seasonings and a drizzle of oil, all wrapped in a fresh hoagie roll, is still  fresh and indelible. 

Years after my hoagie days, I had what might be a second wine epiphany, when I tasted some 30-year-old Burgundies.  Not since, of the thousands of wines tasted, has there been a wine as memorable. 

On the way home from the tasting, the lingering memory of the Burgundy I had just had was as strong as if I had just had the wine in my mouth.  It was then I knew my next wine purchase would be red Burgundy or Pinot Noir. 

Rhapsodizing about  a favorite wine or food is, I'm sure, crazy to some people. But food and drink are primary and after having a memorable taste experience, you  may never be moved by that kind of craziness again, even while the search continues. 

A passion for music, art, sport, food, wine is for many people, vital to life and personal growth.  A television program, currently on FX and Hulu, called "The Bear," illustrates my point.  The series is about a life force that subtly urges the staff of a popular Chicago neighborhood sandwich shop to nurture their passion, even if they don't yet know what that is or why it is slowly taking over their life.  The multi-ethnic crew of different personalities is being urged  to refashion the "Beef" sandwich shop into a fine dining establishment, by one driven man   looking to repeat the magic he once had as a star chef. 

"The Bear" is a loud, chaotic, fast-moving set piece about people's discovery of a personal passion for food, and being immersed in a new and fascinating lifestyle...Burgundy had that affect on me by developing a passion for wine and food.  

I didn't come to Burgundy directly. While stationed in Germany, I discovered that wine was a more interesting beverage than beer and I wanted to know more about it.  The transition came later in France with my first taste of Beaujolais Gamay Noir, that prepared me for the Burgundy to come.    

Without knowing it, I was at the edge of the Burgundy region when I had the Beaujolais.  But, it was years before Burgundy became my desert isle wine. 

That's my story.  You don't have to wait years, like I did, before discovering the pleasures of Burgundy and Pinot Noir.  Next time you're wine shopping, look for a starter red Burgundy like Cote de Beaune or Macon, or try Pinot Noir from Oregon, Russian River, Anderson Valley, Monterey or Santa Barbara.

 

Next post: Bordeaux in Tuscany

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Argentine White Wine

Argentine wine is usually colored red, as in Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon.  In Argentina,  a glass of red wine is just the thing to enjoy with the country's  famous asado, a sizzling slab of grilled beef.

A contented red angus

In fact, Argentina is the number-one consumer of beef in the world, putting away an impressive 160 pounds per inhabitant, compared to the U.S. per capita of 84 pounds.  Australian beef lovers are just behind Americans.  And in second place?  Zimbabwe!

It takes a lot of Malbec to wash down that amount of asado, so you have to wonder if Argentina makes white wine.  It does.  And Argentine white wines are growing in popularity as more Argentinians turn to lighter food.  Beef ranchers are beginning to feel the pinch, with the lighter movement forcing the domestic sale of red meat to trend down.

Most U.S. wine shops have rows of Argentine Malbec, but what about white wine? Let's take a closer look at what styles of white wine are in stock.

At the top of the Argentina list, mainly because it's so pervasive, is Chardonnay.  Followers of my writing, are aware of my indifference toward Chardonnay.  To be clear, I don't dislike Chardonnay, but find there are so many more interesting white wines, like Riesling, Albariño, Semillon,  that show pure fruit flavors not hidden under gobs of new French oak. 

Fortunately, Argentine winemakers, like their colleagues around the world, have heard consumer complaints about too much oak in Chardonnay, especially new French oak.  Winemakers in Mendoza and San Juan have been focusing on the essential flavors in Chardonnay and how to best integrate those flavors with the moderate influence of oak. 

Torrontés. Virtually unknown in the United States, Torrentés is the white grape with the most potential.  And with the proper marketing, Torrontes promises to do for Argentine white wine what Malbec has done for Argentine red wine. 

My first taste of Torrontés was in Argentina. The local buzz in Mendoza, then and now, was about the winemaker, Susana Balbo, who had been crowned the "Queen of Torrontés."  Unique to Argentina, Torrontés is a dry, fruity wine, with bright nectarine flavors, highlighted by floral and citrus zest notes.  The Balbo Torrentés I had in Mendoza hit all those notes. 

Balbo Torrontés available at U.S. retail, include Susana Balbo Signature Barrel Fermented Torrentés, $30 and Signature Brioso White Blend, of Torrontés, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, $25.  Balbo also has Crios de Susana Balbo Torrontés, $19, a tribute to her children; "crios" is Spanish for "kids." 

There are three varieties of Torrontés in Argentina: Torrontés-Riojano, Torrontés-Sanjuanino, mainly grown in San Juan province;  and Torrontés-Mendocino, also common in San Juan province. 

Torrontés Riojano is the most common variety and is the second-most planted white wine grape in Argentina.  Riojano is a cross of Muscat Alexandria and Criolla Chica, known in  California as the historic Mission grape. 

                                                         

An aside.  Regulations for the production of wine and grape growing vary from country to country.  The United States has a range of rules, including the AVA system, but by and large, American wineries can grow what grapes they wish and make the type of wine they want. Apparently, the system is quite different in Argentina. 

In its September issue, Decanter magazine reported that Argentina's government entity responsible for the regulation of wine production and grape growing, has approved the Criolla Chica grape for the production of light red wine. It would seem that in the past, Argentine wineries were only officially permitted to use the Criolla Chica grape for rosé wines and in blends.  

The literal translation of "criolla chica" is "creole girl," and that makes me wonder why anyone would give that name to a wine grape?

With the new ruling on Criolla Chica, it's now likely that we will see more Argentine white wines and light reds.  Proprietary blends are popular, such as the unusual combination of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.  Until recently, Chardonnay was the only white that was rarely blended with another variety. 

There are four varieties of Torrontés in Spain, none of them the same as the three in Argentina.  The Spanish Torrontés I had was lighter and a little lower in acidity, with a flavor profile closer to Albariño.

All wine regions have a signature wine; Argentina has two: Torrontés and Malbec.  Next time you reach for an Argentine wine, make it Torrontés, priced reasonably between $12 and $19, with the odd one, like the Balbo barrel-fermented, at a higher price.

 

Next post:  My Favorite Wine

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Lazio Vino

It's summer and you're on your dream vacation in Rome.  The Eternal City can be like a sauna in the peak summer months, leaving visitors and Romans alike looking for some relief. 

One possibility is to head southeast, a few miles to the Castelli Romani, for a glass (or two) of refreshing white wine.  The 11 Castelli DOCs, of which Frascati is the best known, are within the Lazio (Latium) region, an area that has had its ups and downs.

In the plus column, improved vineyard practices and a renewed understanding of how grapes are nurtured in the local volcanic soils are behind a recent boost in wine quality.  But progress is difficult as  growers and vintners are forced to deal with high land prices, caused by Romans escaping the congestion of the hectic city for the quiet life among the Castelli. 

Castelli Romani is a series of seven rolling hills, far enough from Rome to feel rural, yet close enough to attract day trippers, enticed by the area's many restaurants and, of course, the Castelli Romani wine.  The Castelli, or "castles," are volcanic hillocks that form the Alban hills.

                       

Modern wine making has crept into Lazio, and now exists alongside the old ways.  In his illustrated reference, "Wine Atlas of Italy," 1990, the American in Italy, Burton Anderson, says "in the old days, Castelli wine was drawn from large chestnut casks, demijohns and flasks." Today, it's likely that many of those casks are for show and the finished wine is drawn from stainless steel.

Castelli Romani wines are dry, light, refreshing, and mainly white, made from Malvasia, local clones of Italy's ubiquitous Trebbiano, in the form of Trebbiano Verde and Trebbiano Soave, Moscato Bianco, plus bits and pieces of dozens of other grapes.  

A few Castelli Romani, notably Marino and Velletri, make a light red wine, from the red Cesanese grape, grown mainly in Velletri DOC.  

Cyril Ray, the eminent English wine writer, had a fondness for the wines of the Lazio sub-region of Marino, describing them, in his 1966 The Wines of Italy,  as "fuller and more spicily fragrant" than other Castelli wines. 

The dynamic American duo of Italian food and wine, Marcella and Victor Hazan, were intimately  familiar with Castelli Romani and Lazio cuisine.  While Marcella whipped up a platter of spaghetti carbonara, Victor wrote, in his 1982 book, Italian Wine, about the main grape of Castelli, "Malvasia dominates the blend of Roman white wine."  

Problem is, Italy has a bewildering array of 20 grapes called Malvasia, all of them tracing their origin back to Greece, the ancestral home of many of Italy's grapes. Malvasia Candida is the most common form in Lazio, although Malvasia del Lazio (also known as Malvasia Puntinata) makes more distinctive white wine. 

Malvasia del Lazio

When not over cropped, Malvasia is noted for peach and apricot-like flavors, moderate acidity and a fresh fruity finish, the very definition of Castelli Romani.

Seco is the most popular style requested on local wine lists. Sweeter styles range from amabile, cannelino or dolce and spumante.  All of these wines are commonly available in the trattorias of nearby Rome. 

Frascati, Lazio's best-known wine, is based on a local variation of Malvasia.  Officially, the blend for Frascati can also contain Trebbiano Toscana, a grape lacking varietal character,  that, according to some, has diluted the wine's character.

Compounding the problems with Frascati is declining vineyard acreage due to creeping suburbia on the east side of Rome.   The small town of Frascati, surrounded by vineyards, was once distant from Rome, but now it's hard to tell where Frascati ends and Rome begins. 

Frascati Superiore, with lower yields and a bit more alcohol, was elevated to DOCG status in 2011, implying higher quality than standard Frascati.  In their book on Italian wine and food, Vino Italiano, 2002, David Lynch and Joseph Bastianich, describe Frascati as "high-toned and fragrant."

Consumers looking for something more than a pleasant white wine, might seek out Frascati from small producers that concentrate on wine from select grapes, like Malvasia Putinata, even though the increased cost over standard Frascati, makes a sale more difficult. 

It may be difficult to avoid the crowds during peak tourist season in Rome, but the promise of a glass of light and refreshing white wine awaits you in the Castelli Romani.

Next post: Argentine White Wine

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