The Return of Chenin Blanc

  

It's hard to imagine a time when there was a white wine on American tables that wasn't Chardonnay. 

You'd probably have to return to the years immediately following WWII, when American GIs returned from France with an appreciation and thirst for French wines. At the top of their list were wines of the Loire Valley, where many Americans were stationed. 

Muscadet, from the western portal of the Loire, was unfamiliar to many young Americans new to wine. The grape flavors and minerality of the Melon grape were not as attractive to the unschooled palates, who preferred the bright fruity flavors of Chenin Blanc, the grape of Vouvray, the wine area in the Touraine.  

Universally, the grape in Vouvray was known as Chenin or Chenin Blanc. Although growers and vintners in Touraine preferred Pineau, the local name for Chenin. For the French,"blanc" is superfluous, but universally, the name became Chenin Blanc.

Historically, interest in Chenin Blanc moved slowly beyond the Loire Valley to other parts of the world. The good news is Chenin Blanc is back and growing in popularity. Today, noteworthy Chenin Blanc is strongest in the Loire Valley, South Africa and California. Also, Australia, New Zealand and Washington state.  

France: Loire Valley Chenin Blanc

Long thought of as the "Garden of France," the Loire Valley is more with its castles, grand estates, a beautiful river flowing through it, and wine estates stretching from the Atlantic Ocean to the upland regions beyond Sancerre. 

The Loire Valley is France's most varied wine region, and the country's third largest wine producer. The Loire river valley is divided into lower Loire, famous for Muscadet; middle Loire, known for Chenin Blanc; and the upper Loire and the Sauvignons of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé.  

Along the middle Loire, the river meanders past the city of Tours, in the Touraine. Chenin Blanc is the majority grape. Within the district are five communes making Chenin Blanc.  Nearby, are the still and mousseux (sparkling) Saumur Chenins.  

Up river a short distance from Tours is Vouvray, perhaps for Americans, the best known French Chenin Blanc. Vouvray is made in a range of styles, from dry to sparkling.  Vouvray Liquoreux, a sweet Chenin Blanc made from grapes infected with noble rot, is a French classic to rival Sauternes. 

One of the most memorable white wine experiences I had was a 1955 Vouvray from Marc Bredif. There was still life in the aging wine, honeyed apples with a trace of citrus. Some misguided people want to reduce the wondrous transformation in this Vouvray to just a change in chemicals, but I believe there is a little bit of a mystery we have yet to work out.    

Loire Chenin Blanc to consider: Marc Bredif, Vouvray, Coulee de Serrant, Savennieres; Clos Rougeard, Saumur Blanc; Domaine Guiberteau, Saumur Blanc; Domaine Huet, Vouvray.

South Africa Chenin Blanc

Arguably the most beautiful wine region, the Cape wine land is a scimitar shaped region at the southern tip of Africa. Grapes from France were first brought to South Africa by the Dutch in the 17th century. By the 19th century, the British controlled the export of South African wines to Europe, the most famous being from Constantia, outside Cape Town.

The geographical breakdown for Cape wine country is region, sub-region, then district, and local wards.  An example would be: Coastal Region, District of Stellenbosch and the Ward of Devon Valley. Any of these appellations could be on a South African wine label.

Today, the most recognized districts are Stellenbosch, Paarl. Franschhoeck and Robertson, all within a short distance of Cape Town.  Further to the east is Klein Karoo. Wine from the district of Swartland is gaining ground in export. 

A word about a South African original, before we move on to Chenin Blanc. Pinotage, an odd South African cross of Pinot Noir and Cinsaut, has it's advocates and detractors.  Although many of the first Pinotages smelled like varnish, recent examples from specialists like Kanonkop are clean and fruity with good balance and longevity.  Despite the improvements in the vineyard and winery, Pinotage remains a tough sell outside South Africa.  

Chenin Blanc, once a major variety, now makes up about 19% of Cape plantings.  Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay are on the rise. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah/Shiraz and Merlot are the major reds.

Tropical flavors like pineapple and guava, supported by bracing acidity are the hallmarks of Cape producers like Mulderbosch, Nederberg and Kanu, all members of the Chenin Blanc Producers Association, a winery group serious about Chenin Blanc. The CBPA strives to identify the best vineyards and terroir for growing Chenin Blanc. 

Other South African Chenin Blancs include Badenhorst, Die Cuwingerdrecks Mev. Kirsten, Alheit Vineyards, Jean Engelbrecht, Craven Wines, Kloof Street.

California Chenin Blanc

At one time, Chenin Blanc was grown in many areas of California, including the Napa Valley. Today, most California wineries looking to add Chenin Blanc to their wine list, are buying Chenin Blanc grapes from Clarksburg in the Sacramento Delta.   

Sonoma County's Dry Creek Vineyard has been making a Clarksburg Chenin Blanc for decades. Dry Creek's success helped bring Clarksburg Chenin Blanc to the attention of wine drinkers looking for an alternate white wine.

Clarksburg, northwest of Lodi, has long been a source of grapes destined for blends. More recently, varietal wines, carrying the Clarksburg appellation are showing up in wine shops.    

Besides Chenin Blanc, other Clarksburg white grapes riding the wave of current popularity include the Spanish Albarino, Austrian Grüner Veltliner and Chenin Blanc. 

Other California Chenin Blancs to consider include Aperture Cellars, Kirchoff, Clarksburg; Madson, Santa Barbara County; Foxen, Santa Maria Valley; Kendall-Jackson, California, Chalone, Husch Vineyards, Chappellet Vineyards, Napa Valley and Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc-Viognier. 

Next time you set the table for dinner, add a bottle of Chenin Blanc, a pleasant alternative from the usual Chardonnay.

Photo by Pixabay

 

Next post: Portugal's Attractive Reds

Leave a comment at boydvino707@gmail.com

Essential Wine Books

     

Collectors are a passionate lot.  They want to know everything there is to know about their passion, from  major points to the finest detail.  They believe if you're going to do something, then do it right. 

Wine collectors are true believers when it comes to amassing a collection.  Passionate to a point about the wines in their collection, they devote considerable time and energy to gathering knowledge about the history and background of  each bottle of wine.   

Most collectors find that the devotion and time spent is justified.   Others think the passion is just a little too precious.

Gathering knowledge requires tools and for the wine collector that means an adequate wine book library.  "Webster's New World" dictionary defines library as "any collection of  things (like wine) that is organized for a particular purpose."   The basic rule is that the first definition is the most suggested one.  

When you start collecting wine, you want to try everything.  I found the same approach to be true with wine books.  And, depending on your interests, that can be anywhere from two books to two hundred books.  

The size of my wine book collection, for example, has fluctuated over the years. Eventually, I settled on a small number of essential wine books that all wine drinkers should have in their wine book library, to include reference, history, geography and even the odd wine-based novel.

Depending on your taste in wine, some of the following 20 books may not fill your needs.  A search may be necessary as some of the books are out of print. The first book on the list is the essential one, while the book(s) in parenthesis are suggested for subject depth and perspective.

"Oxford Companion to Wine."  This is an authoritative A-Z reference with maps, photos and graphs. Now in its Fifth Edition, "The Oxford" is the one reference to have.  ("The New Frank Schoonmaker Encyclopedia of Wine" was the go-to wine reference before The Oxford.  The 1975 edition was revised by the late wine writer, Alexis Bespaloff.)

"American Wine"  is a well-written comprehensive look at the many wines of the United States, by wine writers Linda Murphy and Jancis Robinson, with the main focus on California, Washington, Oregon and New York.  ("The Wine Atlas of California," by Bob Thompson, includes a section on the Pacific Northwest and a Traveler's Guide. "The Wines of America," by Leon D. Adams, Fourth Edition, 1990, was first published in 1973 and may be the first comprehensive history and guide to the wines of the United States and Canada.)

"Oz  Clarke's Encyclopedia of Grapes."  Clarke is an erudite English actor/writer who happens to know something about wine.  His book covers in detail 17 "Classic Grapes," such as Chardonnay and Merlot, plus 15 "Major Grapes," and includes taste descriptions, food matches and more.  ("Terroir" is an analysis of the "role of geology, climate and culture in the making of French wines," by geologist James E. Wilson.)

"The Wine Atlas of France," by Hugh Johnson and Hubrecht Duijker, is one in the excellent series of wine atlases and traveler's guides.  It's a little dated but the essential information on the French wine regions is still relevant.  (The following books are good references on specific French wines: "World Encyclopedia of  Champagne & Sparkling Wine," THE book on all bubbly by Tom Stevenson; "The Wines and Domaines of France," Clive Coates MW; "The Finest Wines of Bordeaux," James Lawther MW.)  

"Wine Atlas of Australia & New Zealand," by James Halliday.  Halliday, is a winery owner in Victoria, and the most respected wine writer in Australia.  I've tasted wine with many expert wine people, none more experienced and accurate than James Halliday. 

                                                                       

"Vino Italiano," Joseph Bastianich & David Lynch. This is the definitive guide to the regional wines of Italy, with the added bonus of wine-pairing recipes from Lidia Bastianich and Mario Batali, plus a collection of delightful anecdotes by Joseph Bastianich.  ("Vino," by Burton Anderson, the book on Italian wine to have, before Vino Italiano and still a useful guide.)

"The New Spain," John Radford.  An authoritative reference by a Spanish wine specialist.  ("The Finest Wines of Rioja and Northwest Spain," an informative collaboration by three Spanish wine writers.)

"The Atlas of German Wines and Traveler's Guide," Hugh Johnson, one of the world's most experienced and prolific wine writers.  ("The Finest Wines of Germany," Stephan Reinhardt)

"Vintage: The Story of Wine," a fascinating history of wine by the well informed Hugh Johnson. ("How to Taste," a compendium of tasting tactics by British wine writer, Jancis Robinson.  Her approach is orderly with short introductions to major categories, followed by the characteristics of white wines, red wines and sparkling wines, or "fizz," as the Brits call sparkling wine.) 

Note: "The Finest Wines" books is a series of compact references, authored by experts in their respective areas. 

There are hundreds, possibly thousands, of English language books on the subject of wine.  For the 20 books mentioned above, as well as other titles, check:  Barnes & Noble, your local library, wine publications, used book stores, yard sales, wine shops, and suggestions from people you know who are friends of wine.  

 

More on AI & Wine: The hottest topic today in technology is the pros and cons of artificial intelligence.  What is the relationship of AI and wine now and in the future and how will it affect wine production and consumption?  A part of the answer is in this latest entry on AI and wine:

Global Data Ai Palette has analyzed and isolated six data points, out of thousands of niche flavors and ingredients, using AI to discover and grow consumer products in the wine and spirits field.  Flavors were identified for each of the six key markets, with Valencia Orange identified for the United States.  According to Ai Palette, Valencia Orange, which also includes Cara Cara, navel and blood oranges, is growing in demand in wines, spirits and ciders.

My question: Wouldn't it be more intellectually satisfying for a scientist, rather than AI, to discover and develop the niche flavors we look for in wine?

 

Next post: The Return of Chenin Blanc  

Leave a comment at boydvino707@gmail.com

Monterey

 

Few California wine regions have a mixed history as Monterey.  In the early 1970s, some Monterey wines were said to have the dreaded "veggies."  The distasteful characteristic, mostly in red wine, was alleged to have been from planting wine grapes in the northern Salinas Valley, which was better known then for lettuce than grapes. 

The miscalculation forced one major winery to mount an image redo.  And another winery was rumored to have poured a few tanks of suspect Monterey red wine, with the veggies, down the drain, to avoid damaging the winery's growing reputation for quality moderately-priced wine.

That was  then. Today, Monterey County is home to distinctive Pinot Noir from the Santa Lucia Highlands and Chalone, terroir-driven Cabernet Sauvignon from Carmel Valley, and Chardonnay and Riesling from southern Arroyo Seco. 

For the wine consumer curious about the appellation and its wines, Monterey can be confusing.  Most of the county's American Viticultural Areas come under the Central Coast AVA, a sprawling area that stretches from San Francisco to Los Angeles.  

Within the Central Coast AVA, is the smaller Monterey AVA, covering most of the county.  The exception is Carmel Valley AVA that, for some reason, comes under the Central Coast AVA.  Monterey AVA has five specific sub-appellations: Arroyo Seco, Santa Lucia Highlands, San Bernabe, plus the lesser known Hames Valley and San Lucas. 

An aside. One of the more interesting stories in Monterey viticulture is San Bernabe, at 13,000 acres, the largest contiguous vineyard in the world. Managing the layout of such a massive vineyard presented a number of problems for its designer.  

When I visited San Bernabe in the mid-2000s, the owner, Delicato, was grappling with the challenge of picking simultaneously in multiple rows.  

San Bernabe's vineyard manager took me to a spot in the vineyard where the problem had occurred. Looking to increase productivity, the vineyard crew  suggested picking grapes simultaneously in multiple parallel rows, with a special hybrid machine harvester, they would design and cobble together, to be pulled by a tractor. 

According to the vineyard manager, the monster harvester rumbled and rattled down the rows, until it got to the end and stopped. The unwieldy machine couldn't be turned around and then lined up for the next pass, because there wasn't enough space between the vineyard and a row of neighboring vines that had been planted at a right angle to the harvester had traversed.   

Pointing to a rusting pile of junk, laying useless at the end of the vine rows, the vineyard manager looked at me and just shook his head.

Monterey has more than 50 wine grapes in hundreds of vineyards, including San Bernabe.  In addition to Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling, Monterey County has an admirable reputation for Syrah, and other Rhone varieties.  Limited plantings of odd varieties not in the main stream, include Falanghina, Petit Manseng, Gruner Veltliner and Olonde (Grolleau). 

Lone cypress on 17 Mile Drive

Here are brief overviews of the four most significant wine regions in Monterey County.

Santa Lucia Highlands  is situated between the Salinas Valley and the Pacific Ocean. Vineyards up to 1,200 feet are moderated by fog and cool breezes drawn in from the ocean by warm air rising from the valley floor.  Pinot Noir, Syrah and Chardonnay are the main grapes in the highlands. On the valley floor, lettuces, bell peppers, tomatoes and other row crops have earned the valley's nickname as "California's Salad Bowl."  

Chalone, a tiny appellation in the eastern Gavilan Mountains, pioneered the growing of Pinot Noir in the county on limestone soil.  Although grapes were grown near the Pinnacles National Monument early in the 20th century, Richard Graff planted Pinot Noir at nearby Chalone in 1960, later adding Pinot Blanc and Chenin Blanc. The other area winery is Michaud Vineyard.

Arroyo Seco, the Spanish for "dry stream," is at the southern end of the Salinas Valley.  For many years, Jekel Vineyards worked to convince wine consumers that this warm part of the county is right for Chardonnay and Riesling, two varieties that define the area.  A few growers, challenging conventional wisdom, continue to work what little Cabernet Sauvignon there is in the arroyo.

Carmel Valley is a western enclave isolated from Monterey's other wine areas by surrounding low hills. The opening to the valley is close to Carmel village, with its collection of upscale shops and restaurants.  Nearby is Monterey town and the scenic ocean side 17 Mile Drive. Carmel's wine scene is geared to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from a handful of small wineries like Bernardus, Talbott and Galante.  

There is so much more to learn about the wine side of Monterey, available in the books on California wine mentioned in next week's post about books that should be in every wine fanslibrary. 

 

AI & Wine:  The April 25 post about the impact of AI on wine drew some reader responses. I believe the association of AI and wine is important, so in the future, when I read a reference to AI and wine, I'll add it  at the end of that week's posting.  

The results of a survey by the UK e-commerce platform Drinks found that 44% of those surveyed would accept a wine recommendation made by artificial intelligence.  And I wonder if the 44% is a trend that will soon fade like most trends,  or is it a disturbing harbinger of the future of wine consumption.  I hope it's just a trend. 

Next post: Essential Wine Books

Leave a comment at boydvino707@gmail.com

AI & Wine

        

For years, we have been told that our thought process is a matter of independent left and right brain. That is, the left hemisphere is for logical processing and the right hemisphere for creative thinking.  Scientists, however, say the real truth is the hemispheres work together not independently.

I don't wish to quibble with science, but I sometimes wonder if my hemispheres are working together, especially about tech innovations.  

My sons think it amusing and odd that their father talks like a tech denier, but writes a blog, using a computer.  It's a family joke that I don't try to squelch, so long as my sons are willing to help me with internet and software glitches. 

In the past, my troublesome relationship with technology has resulted in unusual collaborations that have me searching for answers.  At one time, my reluctance to embrace IT developed into a running gag with a friend and colleague.  He would jokingly call me a Luddite, adding, "Well, at least you're using a fax." 

I lost contact with that friend, but as this blog clearly shows, my sometimes difficult working relationship with computer technology, is on-going. Truth is, so long as everything is working, I hardily endorse the status quo.

Lately, my arrangement with tech has been comfortable, that is until I started reading about a new wrinkle called Artificial Intelligence or AI. 

Why am I straying from writing about wine to comment on AI?  And why is a technological development, promoted as having so much promise, personally troubling for me and potentially for wine? 

Wine is something I understand as one of life's great pleasures that can and should by shared. Sharing is what I do, through writing. Further, I understand that embracing technology is a necessity. 

The limits of AI have been debated now for a few years, but I sense that the argument about its pros and cons is gaining traction in wine circles.  Most of what I have been reading focuses on the application of AI in viticulture and sales and not so much, yet, on wine making and wine writing. 

In the last few months, I've read how AI is working wonders in the vineyard, and how AI is opening up new and creative areas in wine marketing and sales. 

Early this month, "Decanter"magazine reported that Kia Behnia, co-owner of Neotempo Wines, in the Napa Valley, told attendees at a seminar in London, that AI may be able to mitigate the impact of climate change in the vineyard. Behnia said that Scout, a vineyard management tool he co-developed, is "powered by some form of AI," and that it can "assist growers everywhere to be able to see their own vineyard, to spot disease and heat stress."

Still, the thought of AI intruding into the creative areas of wine making and wine writing troubles me, such as the appearance of AI in wine articles and blogs. This possibility is a concern for the 2025 Wine Writing Competition, from Jancis Robinson.com.  The second rule for entry spells out in part "...written without the aid of AI." (emphasis is JR's)

A series of blogs on wine I see frequently has text and a single colorful illustration, each with a different theme, but all with a monotonous sameness. Are the illustrations AI generated?  Could be, but I don't know. That's my point and I wonder if the blog author would be satisfied with monotony and sameness in their wine.

There is no disputing that AI has the power and promise to make life better, to solve difficult problems, and to introduce society to wonders we have yet to imagine.  But unregulated and uncontrolled, AI has the potential to cause havoc the likes of which we have yet to imagine. 

Imagine the possibility that what you're reading here has been generated by AI, or that the photo you saw in a story came from a bot and not a photographer with a camera. 

Does that make you uncomfortable?  It does me.

Among the many things we are asked to sort out today, things we know little about, is solving, or at least understanding, the mysteries of Artificial Intelligence. 

So, should I be worried, or just allow AI to wash over me and to influence my writing? It's easy to be paranoid, especially when you think of the harm AI can do and you wonder who's watching the store?  

Image by Freepik

 

Next blog: Wine Variety in Monterey

Leave a comment at boydvino707@gmail.com 

A Look at Zinfandel

Throughout the history of the United States,  Americans have enthusiastically produced and grown a lot of things.  And, we've  relied heavily on imports, including the grapes for our wine.

The history of American wine grapes is a mix of native North American varieties and hundreds of grapes carried to this country as "suitcase" imports by European immigrants.  

Zinfandel is one of those unique imports that have transcended its origins, to become known as California's own wine grape. 

Zinfandel in a basket

Today, Zinfandel is grown mainly in Sonoma County, Lodi, the Sierra Foothills and Mendocino.  As  Zin became popular, some did stray south of the Golden State to Mexico, and farther afield to Western Australia, South Africa and Chile.

It's not easy to describe the taste of Zinfandel because of the wine's stylistic versatility.  It helps, of course, to know where the Zin comes from and the age of the vines. Young Zin is all about blackberry, black pepper and aromatic spices including cinnamon and clove.  Older Zins, especially from old vines, are more concentrated, nutty, with cedar and mint.  Late Harvest Zinfandel takes concentration to another level, supported by a bit of sweetness.

Zin makers (who very likely could be Zen Masters) believe that Zinfandel has two lives. That is, once the primary fruit fades, after about eight years, there is, to use wine speak, a dumb period, followed by mature flavors of dark fruits, exotic spices combined with oak notes, that can happen after about 15 years in bottle.

I recently had a 1981 Ridge York Creek Zinfandel that was about as good a Zin as I've tasted, still very much alive with a deep ruby color, layered fruit, fine tannin and nicely integrated acidity.  Even after the meal had ended, the Ridge Zin was still a pleasurable drink.  

Coincidentally, a friend opened a 1974 Ridge Geyserville Zin that he described as "nothing short of spectacular."  Both Ridge Zinfandels are a testament to the mastery of Paul Draper then the Ridge winemaker, now retired. 

Plotting Zin History

Arguments have raged for years about the origin of Zinfandel, with some of the early accounts focused on  the spelling of the grape's name.  One version was "Zenfendel," while another claimed it was "Zinfindal."  We know today that research finally settled on Zinfandel. 

Thanks to DNA profiling, we also know that Zinfandel is related to two native grapes grown in Croatia and one in the southern Italian region of Puglia.  Croatian grown Tribidrag and the equally tongue-twisting Crijanak Kastelanski are both related to Zinfandel.  There was even some Croatian chatter about a local grape called Plavic Mali, that is, in fact, a cross of Zinfandel and an obscure local variety.

In 1994, DNA proved that Primitivo, from the Italian region of Puglia, was simply what the Italians call Zinfandel.  Apparently, the grape had somehow made its way west, across the Adriatic Sea to the heel of the Italian boot.   

Puglia: The heel of the boot

The story behind how these grapes from Croatia became associated with Zinfandel is one of dogged research and the application of modern science.  Zinfandel's lineage was initially tracked to Croatia by Carole Meredith, of UC-Davis in California and two Croatian researchers. 

But Primitivo's journey from Italy to California has a different itinerary.  One version has Zinfandel (or Primitivo) being imported from Italy by a nursery on Long Island.  Another claim says Agoston Harazthy brought the grapevine back to California on return from his native Hungary.  The more likely story, however, is that an unlabeled red grape was carried to California by prospectors, hoping to strike it rich during the Gold Rush of 1849.  

Throughout the 20th century, Zinfandel delighted and disappointed wine drinkers.  Fans were happy when Zin was on the rise, spurred on in the 1980s by the phenomenal success of White Zinfandel, even if some avid zinophiles claimed that White Zin was nothing more than a sweetish ersatz rosé.

Thanks to its expanding crowd of fans, supported by Zinfandel Advocates & Producers (ZAP,) the Zinfandel promotional group, Zinfandel continues to give Cabernet Sauvignon, its main red rival, stiff competition.  You can learn more about Zinfandel from the ZAP web site, at  www.zinfandel.org.

 

Next post: AI & Wine 

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Vino from Southern Italy

                                

For a fan of Italian wine, there are many choices to select from, even with looming tariffs. Italy is awash in vino, from the cool mountainous regions of the far north, to the warmer parts of the south. The range of Italian wine is truly impressive. 

A convenient way to look at Italian wine, is to divide the long narrow country into thirds. The northern tier has light fruity white wines and substantial reds. Drop down to the central part for iconic reds and unique whites. For the final third, south of Rome, savor Italy's equivalent of jug wine and a distinctive red created from ancient volcanic soil. 

The southern regions, Molise, Campania, Puglia, Basilicata and Calabria, are better known for wheat and olives than wine grapes, although Italy's major source of table grapes comes from the warmer south.  As with other areas of interest in Italy, where the north dominates the south, wine is no exception.  

However, the one thing the southern regions have in common, would be the wines are all made, more or less, from the same grapes.  Aglianico is widely planted in most of the regions.  Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, named for the neighboring region Abruzzo, are also commonly shared. Campania's noted Greco di Tufo and Falangina are popular throughout the south. 

Here's a brief look at the southern regions and their main grapes.  For those readers who put stock in Italy's DOC and DOCG designations, as a way to determine vine and wine quality, I've added DOCs for each of the five regions.  In theory, a DOCG wine is better than a DOC wine from the same area, and both are better than an IGT wine.

In practice, though, there are too many factors, such as terroir, politics and the effects of climate change on local weather that have occurred since the awarding of DOC, to make a flat statement about wine quality. 

Molise is the second smallest wine region, after Aosta (Valle d'Aosta), the mountainous valley in Italy's northwest corner.  Many of the most widely planted grapes, such as the red Montepulciano and white Trebbiano, are shared with neighboring Abruzzo. The region has four DOCs, with the Molise DOC, which covers the entire zone, the most noteworthy.  Look for Molise wines from Di Majo Norante.

Puglia, with its long Adriatic coast, has a narrow border in the north with Molise.  The region is mostly flat plains, planted with olive groves and expansive wheat fields.  Change is underway, though, to more vineyards, reflected by the region's 30 DOC and four DOCG zones.

Puglia is hot and sunny, rivaling only Sicily for year-round sun days.  Red grapes, like Primitivo (related to Zinfandel) and Negroamaro, the most widely planted red variety in Puglia, thrive in the iron-rich soils.  Also of interest are Aglianico and the red version of Malvasia Bianca.

For whites, both Trebbiano Toscano and a variety with the delightful name, Bombino Bianco, are bottled as varietals and in blends, although Bombino is used mostly for blending.  Other whites include Chardonnay and the local grape, Verdeca.

Campania is famous for a handful of attractions: the chaotic sprawling city of Naples,  the nearby island of Capri, the towering Mt. Vesuvius and the Roman-era ruins of Pompeii.  

Old porous tufa

Campania is also known for the grapes of antiquity like Taurasi, Fiano, Falanghina and Greco, the latter reputedly of Greek origin.  Taurasi stands alone as Campania's premier red grape.  Fiano di Avellino is seen mostly near the town of Avellino, and the vines for Greco di Tufo, draw mineral nuances from the volcanic soils, around the town of Tufo.

Taurasi DOCG, is a full-bodied red wine with textured fine tannins and red fruit flavors.  Fiano DOCG, the Latin word for bees, is aromatic with honey and spice flavors.  Greco DOCG has lots of body and a dry full mineral flavor. There are 18 DOCs, including Falanghina, a  juicy and dry white with herbal notes.

Basilicata is emblematic of the enduring poverty of southern Italy, a stark contrast to the more prosperous north.  The region sits atop Calabria and is bracketed by Puglia and Campania. 

The most important wine, and the only DOC, is Aglianico del Vulture, a powerful rustic red from the slopes of Mt. Vulture, in the north across the eastern border with Puglia.

Basilicata bottles white wine, mostly from Muscats and Malvasia, that go into blends and sold locally. Little, if any Basilicata white wine is exported to the United States.

Calabria has the distinction of having 12 DOC wines, although the output of each is small, some even minuscule.  The reason none of the DOCs has yet been elevated to DOCG status is that, until about 15 years ago, modern advances in wine making had not yet made inroads into this ancient wine region. 

Few places in Italy experiment with indigenous grapes like Calabria.  A group of winemakers operating within an organization called the Ciro Revolution, are working with native grapes and organic and biodynamic viticulture.  Signs of innovative wine making are evident in blends of international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and indigenous red Magliocco.

Calabria forms the toe of the boot, that almost  touches the eastern tip of Sicily. There's an interchange here with grapes, such as the Sicilian Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, that grow equally well in both regions and are components of blends and bottled as varietals.

Next time you're cruising the Italian wine section of your local wine store, look for the varied wines of Basilicata, Calabria, Molise, Campania and Puglia -- the vino of Italy's south.

 

Next post: A Look at Zinfandel 

Leave a comment boydvino707@gmail.com

 

Wine & Wood

French oak forest  

For a long time, I've been curious about the relationship of wine and wood, more specifically wine and oak.  

Does wine taste better, or different, after spending time in oak?

The sensible answer, of course, is that it's a matter of personal taste.  Yet, there is an undeniable symbiosis that occurs, when wine meets oak.  Some consumers find that meeting attractive and others can take it or leave it, preferring the varietal personality and flavor of a wine sans oak.  

A very little history of wine and wood.  Thousands of years ago, tradesmen in Armenia, shipped wine down the Tigris river in palm wood containers.  In the years since, wine has been stored and shipped in all manner of wood, including acacia, chestnut, cypress, ash, pine, beech, oak, redwood, popular and eucalyptus.  

Winemakers used whatever wood was available locally: redwood in California, evergreen beech in Chile. Then, in the mid 20th century, the world wine community, led by France, settled on oak as the most compatible wood with wine. 

An often heard maxim is, "Good wine begins in the vineyard."  Vintage after vintage, winemakers prefer Chardonnay from the same vineyard, even the same rows, because they like the continuity they get, year after year.  That continuity is important, whether you're making Chardonnay in California or in Burgundy, or another wine from anywhere else.

Unfortunately, most wine making decisions and techniques are not known to the consumer.  What happens, though, is a sensory alert stimulates the palate, telling the taster that this style of wine is what I like.

Some wines seem to taste better with a little oak, such as Chardonnay.  The popular wine is the best (though not the only) wine to explain the conundrum of oak or no oak. Your senses would have to be dead not to be able to tell the difference between a Chardonnay that has not seen oak and one that has been fermented and/or matured in oak.   

Uncork a California Chardonnay and the scent of new oak rises from the glass and slaps you in the face, while the presence of oak in Burgundy is more subtle and integrated.  Racking a Chardonnay (or any wine) into a new barrel, with a toasted interior, and there's an assertive oakiness that is hard not to notice.

In recent years, over oaked California Chardonnays have taken a beating from consumers and wine writers. Winemakers met the criticism by backing off the percentage of new oak, but there still is too much new oak in many Chardonnays. 

 

California Chardonnays  are often fermented and aged in French oak, essentially delivering a double hit of oak to the wine, usually with some percentage of it new.  Burgundian winemakers are likely to use less new oak in white wine, which for the consumer means a more pleasing balance between oak and wine. 

 New oak has an assertiveness that masks the fruit aromatics and flavor.  It takes time for fruit and oak to come into balance.

 The length of time the wine stays in the barrel, plus the toast level, can make a big difference.  Or, maybe the difference is the winemaker's talent for matching the potential quality of the wine with the measurable quality of the harvest. 

There are other times when a wine benefits from contact with oak.  Fermenting in oak, rather than  stainless steel, gives the wine a more tactile mouth feel and texture.  Maturing a wine in once-used oak imparts an oaky nuance, allowing the essential fruit to show through.  

For the winemaker, it's a matter of balance between varietal characteristics, desired aging time and wine making skill.  

For you, the wine consumer, the question of oak or no oak, is a matter of personal taste. 

Pixabay photos

Next post: Vino from Southern Italy 

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Alexander Valley

  

Hop yard with climbers

In 1840, Cyrus Alexander headed west from his home in Illinois to set down roots in northern California.   He settled in a broad valley by a river, hoping to continue in his trade as a trapper.  But farming was more important in the valley, so by 1843,  Alexander had joined the local farming community.   

Cyrus Alexander became a leader in the small growing community, a move that was recognized when the valley was named in his honor.  Farming in the mid-19th century, in what would become  Sonoma County,  was mostly row crops.  Prune orchards and hop yards were added, and up to the 1960s, were the major agriculture in the Alexander Valley.  

The transition to vineyards, mainly to support bulk wine production, came later.  By the early 1970s, hops had mostly disappeared from the crop mix and prunes gave way to vines, a sign of the new reality that would help slake Americans growing thirst for wine. 

These were early years for wine in Alexander Valley.  Jug wine and bulk wine were the first wines to build a core for the wine business. Varietal wines, mainly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, were poised to bring fame to Alexander Valley. 

As vineyards spread across the bench lands east of the Russian River, wineries got busy transforming grape juice into wine.  With one eye on vineyard soils and climate, and the other on the growing consumer demand for wine, growers planted more red grapes.

The change to the modern era of wine making in the valley began in the early years of the 1970s, with the resurrection of Simi Winery and the arrival of Jordan Vineyard & Winery.  

The ocher colored Jordan winery building, designed to appeal to Francophiles, Tom and Sally Jordan, at first produced, in Bordeaux fashion, only an Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, later adding a textured, weighty Chardonnay.

Alexander Valley's warm climate is well suited to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, planted in hillside  vineyards and flatter valley floor.  A singular distinction occurred with the 1974 vintage when Rodney Strong Vineyards bottled the valley's first single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon from Alexander's Crown near Jimtown.

 In the mid-1960s, Robert Young, on the advice of UC Davis, planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, positioning Robert Young Vineyards as one of the most valued wine grape growers in the state.  Word of  Young's success soon spread to other wineries including Chateau St. Jean. 

Alexander Valley Cabernet leans toward a harmonious blend of herbs and black fruits, backed with nicely integrated fine tannins.  Alexander Valley Merlot is decidedly fruit driven, with plenty of natural acidity.

Seghesio Home Ranch Vineyard

Zinfandel is Alexander Valley's other red that attracts Zin fans everywhere. One of the top Alexander Valley Zins is the Seghesio  Home Ranch Vineyard, an old-vine Zinfandel that plays off of the Seghesio's Italian heritage.  The Home Ranch is one of a dozen Zinfandels from Seghesio. 

Ridge Vineyards, a winery with a long history of storied Zinfandels, has an impressive collection of 17 Zins, four of them from Alexander Valley, including Buchigani Ranch, Boatman, Stone Ranch and the iconic Ridge Geyserville.

Chardonnay, on the other hand, benefits from cooler conditions  along the Russian River and around Jimtown, the small spot famous not only for neighboring vineyards but also the Jimtown store, where you're likely to see local wine people picking up a sandwich.  The Chardonnay from this area is lean with tropical fruit notes.  

There are more than two dozen wineries in Alexander Valley.   Here are 12 worth consideration: Alexander Valley Vineyards, deLorimer Winery, Ferrari-Carano Winery, Francis Ford Coppola Winery, Jordan Vineyard & Winery, Lampson Family Wines, Lancaster Estate, Robert Young Estate Winery, Rodney Strong Vineyards, Silver Oak, Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, Trentadue Winery.

 

Next post: Wine & Wood 

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Vin from Southern France

 

 

Life is good along France's posh Mediterranean coast.  Seafood is plentiful, orchards and gardens are bountiful and the vineyards of Roussillon, Languedoc and Provence are busy supplying France and the world with a wide range of wine.

These are fertile lands, from the border with Spain, eastward along the Mediterranean arc.  Here, the wine culture of France is at its most colorful and diverse.  A maritime climate enhances the conditions for an abundant array of wine styles like nowhere else in France. 

As familiar as the wines of the south of France are to today's French wine drinkers, they had trouble in the past attracting the attention of Americans.  In the 1970s, as Americans were becoming more familiar with Bordeaux and Burgundy,  the Russian born American, Alexis Lichine, was busy pitching the marketing campaign, "French Country Wines," mainly about wines from the region of the Cote de Roussillon.

Lichine was known to American wine drinkers as the owner of Ch. Prieure-Lichine in Margaux, and the guy who married  glamorous Hollywood movie star, Arlene Dahl.  But his efforts to sell French country wines to Americans met with sales resistance, mostly because Americans knew little then about Mediterranean wine regions, much less that Roussillon, Languedoc and Provence have individual personalities.  

A lot has changed since Lichine's day, so let's take a closer look at the three main French Mediterranean wine regions. 

Roussillon, in the west, next to Spain, shares the Catalan culture and language with Spain.  The Spanish influence in Roussillon is similar to the history of the French-German region of Alsace. 

A large part of the Roussillon economy is dependent on olives and grapes, with abundant orchards supplying cherries, plums, peaches and apricots to markets throughout France. 

Vineyards are rooted in the valleys and  rolling foothills.  Roussillon's variety of soils are a suitable medium for a wide range of grapes.  Blends  are common in Roussillon, with Grenache Noir, Syrah and Carignan the leading red grapes and Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Macabeo for whites.  Macabeo is a popular white variety adopted from northern Spain.

Roussillon is famous for its range of dry and sweet Muscats, as well as Banyuls vins doux naturels, a French specialty where fermentation of a naturally sweet wine is stopped by adding grape spirits. It's essentially the same technique as is used to make Port and Madeira. 

 Roussillon Wines: Domaine Pierre Cadene, $11;  Domaine Lafarge Nicolas, $20; Danjou Bauessy, $67; Domaine Forca Real, $15.

Languedoc is France's volume leader and an ambitious producer of a range of wines, from sparkling to dessert.  Heading east along the Mediterranean, the inland region of Languedoc lies between Roussillon and Provence.  A slight detour before crossing the Rhone river takes you to the Southern Rhone and a different expression of the wines from those found in Roussillon or Provence. 

Syrah and Grenache, followed by Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvedre, are the most common red grapes.  Plantings of Carignan, once a major variety, were dramatically reduced in 2015 by an EU vine-pull scheme, to reduce a wine surplus.

Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are the leading Languedoc whites.  Chardonnay and/or Chenin Blanc play a minor role, supporting Mauzac, in Languedoc's popular sparkling wine, Blanquette de Limoux.

Long a sprawling area of limited AOC wines, In 1985, Languedoc 's noted Corbieres and Minervois wines were elevated to AOC status, boosting the total AOCs to ????. 

Languedoc Wines:  Reserve Saint Marc, $15; Deferlante, $33; Coteaux du Languedoc Saint Cristol Cuvee, $23; Les Darons, $14. 

Provençal lavender

Provence may be better known for tourism than wine, although Provence Rosé is the wine favored by locals and tourists to wash down local dishes centered around an olive oil and garlic-based cuisine, featuring aioli, the versatile garlic infused mayonnaise.

Pale pink rosés, made primarily from Grenache and Cinsault, are mildly fruity and mostly off-dry.  Mourvèdre, Carignan and Syrah are reserved for Provence red wines, while Semillon, Ugni Blanc and Vermentino are the main white grapes.  

Vermentino, known in Provence as Rolle, is identified mostly with Sardinia and had its moment a few years back as an alternative white to Albarino and Viognier.

Cassis, a small white wine area in Provence is better known for cassis, French for blackcurrant. The popular liqueur is the noted Provençal contribution to the world of drinks.  Mix cassis with chilled white wine and you have Kir. 

Not as well known outside of Provence as cassis, are the oak-aged red wines of Bandol.  Based on Mourvèdre, Bandol may also include Grenache and Cinsaut. 

Provence Wines: Chateau Saint-Pierre-Eden Rose, $20; Provence Vineyards, $23; Mas de Gourgonnier, $18; Juliette, $17. 

With some exceptions, wines from these three regions are plentiful and affordable.  The dozen wines suggested above are mainly blends and mostly red, but there are plenty of white varietal wines, sparkling wines and sweet dessert-style wines.  Most of the choices you'll find in your local market are from Languedoc, but that depends on wine merchant preferences and local demand.

Next post: Alexander Valley

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Rhine Rieslings

Note: An odd usage convention refers in print to a certain German river and wine region(s). For the English speaker, Rhine (river) is easier to understand than the German word Rhein. But the names of the wine regions - Rheingau, Rheinpfalz and Rheinhessen - are more pleasing to the eye in German than the awkward "Rhinegau." Thus, all of the following references of Rhine and Rhine regions, will be English and German, respectively.  

 

                                                

Riesling is often mentioned as the greatest white wine grape on the planet.  If so, why isn't wine made from Riesling more popular?

Germany's Rhine region is frequently cited as the source of the greatest white wine made.  If so, why doesn't Rhine Riesling sell better than, say, Chardonnay, which happens to be the planet's best-selling white wine.

Riesling is made in smaller quantities than Chardonnay, in such far flung places as Australia, Northern Italy, Finger Lakes, Alsace, Washington state, New Zealand.  Yet, in many of these same places, wine shoppers will reach for a bottle of Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc and pass right by the Rhine Riesling. 

"Meininger's International" report on the share of the 2024 market had Other Whites (including Riesling) at less than 1%, while Chardonnay held 21% of the market.  Although both white wines showed an increase, they lagged behind the dominance of red wine sales.

Taste preference is certainly a factor for avoiding Riesling, but surely there is more.  So, lets look at why Riesling, and in particular Rhine Riesling, is not a better seller. 

✔ Riesling is perceived as a sweet wine, although some are dry; Chardonnay is perceived as a dry wine, although some are sweet.

There are two kinds of wine making: Wine made by a winemaker that you can taste, such as intended sweetness; and wine made in the imagination of a marketer or salesperson.  Stylistically, the winemaker's wine is as advertised.  For years, though, we've been told by marketing and sales that Riesling is a sweet wine. To be sure, there are sweet Rieslings, but there are dry Rieslings as well, like German Trocken (dry)  and Halbtrocken (off-dry) Riesling.

✔  German wine language is hard to read and understand, especially on German wine labels.

Ask six people to pronounce Gewürztraminer and you'll likely hear six different pronunciations.  The word is pronounced geh-vairtz-tra-mee-ner, with emphasis on "vairtz" and "mee."  And the two dots over the letter ü is an umlaut, or diacritical mark placed over a vowel to give the letter a different sound.  That can be confusing to the non-German speaking wine drinker, especially when reading a German wine label.  In recent years, the German wine industry has worked to simplify label language, but it is what it is and the language will not change.

 ✔ Consumers don't understand the difference between Rieslings from the Rheingau, Rheinpfalz, and Rheinhessen.

While the flavor characteristics can vary greatly depending on vineyard terroir, in general Rheingau Rieslings are mineral-rich and long lived.  Rheinhessen Rieslings have more of the typical peach and citrus flavors.  Rheinpfalz (now known as Pfalz) Rieslings are full bodied and dry with citrus notes.

✔ Wine buyers, perhaps subconsciously, reach for Chardonnay in a familiar shaped bottle, but shy away from the unfamiliar tall flute-like shape of a German wine bottle.

Bottle shape and color are subtle buying aids.  Consumers have been conditioned to recognize Chardonnay in the modern slope-shoulder, dead leaf green colored Burgundy bottle.  There's some question, though, about what wine is in that tall green (Rhine and Moselle) or brown (Rhine) flute-shaped bottle?  

This list of reasons why Riesling doesn't sell better is not exhaustive, but it is an indication of four possible things that may explain what Rhine Rieslings are all about, especially when compared to Chardonnay.  

Understanding Rhine Riesling, and all German wine, requires a definition of terms, not something most wine drinkers bother with, but knowing the ins and outs of German wine standards is essential to knowing the style of wine you're buying.  

Qualitatswein: Germany's largest wine category, known as QBA, vary in sweetness  and alcohol depending on the rules of the region where the wine is produced.  QBA wines may contain added sugars (Chaptalized).

Kabinett: The lightest of the six Prädikat "wines of distinction," that may not be Chaptalized.  Finished alcohol range for Kabinett is 9-11%.  

Spätlese: A Prädikat wine that means "late harvest." Defined by must weight, Spätlesen finished alcohol is 10-12%. A spatlese is noticeably sweet, but balanced with steely acidity.

Auslese: This Prädikat wine means "selected harvest."  Auslesen are sweet and long-lived.  It is at this level and above when the grapes are often botrytized, resulting in a complex sweet wine with a unique flavor. 

Beerenauslese: Full-on botrytized Prädikat wine, rich, sweet character and strongly influenced by botrytis.  Beerenauslese means "berry select" and by some estimates it is the ultimate dessert wine.

Trockenbeerenauslese: Just when you thought Rhine Rieslings couldn't get any more luscious, there is Trockenbeerenauslese or "TBA," botrytized sweet wines made from grapes shriveled on the vines. Quantities are sometimes so small that the wine is made in glass demijohns, with fermentation often taking up to a year or more to reach the required 5.5% alcohol for TBA.

You may not agree with those who say Riesling stands at the top of the world's best white wines, or that Rhine Riesling is the leader, but Riesling's complex flavors grow on you.  And to help in your discovery,   here's a quick look at the character of Riesling and why you should consider Rhine Riesling next time you make a white wine purchase.

                                       

 Common descriptors for Riesling are citrus, honeysuckle, jasmine, fruit salad, mineral, Granny Smith apples, marzipan, peaches, apricots.  Riesling has fruit sweetness, and certain styles also have residual sweetness, but there is always sufficient zesty acidity, to keep the wine from cloying. 

Riesling trocken from the Rhine is a good match with shell fish and Chinese and Thai food.  Sweeter Riesling Halbtrocken and Spätlese are perfect with fish or white meat in a light cream sauce. You'll need the weight and sweetness of Auslese for dessert.

Finally, if you haven't yet had the pleasure, next time you're dining at a Thai or Chinese restaurant, check the wine list for a Rheingau Halbtrocken (half dry or off dry). 

Freepik photos

Next post: Provence & Languedoc

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Prosecco Rising

  

Are Champagne houses pricing their bubbly out of the U.S. wine market?  It's a timely question, since sales of the elite French fizz are slumping, while the market for a more prosaic sparkling wine is soaring. 

What wine is that?  Prosecco, the northern Italian spumante that is setting sales records, everywhere it is sold.  

According to the Consorzio Prosecco DOC, more than 660 million bottles of Prosecco were sold in 2024,   up 7% over the previous year.  More than 76% were Extra Dry and Brut and 8% was the rising Sparkling Rose category. Prosecco DOC amounts to nearly 25% of Italy's total sparkling wine production.  

The grape responsible for all that impressive performance is Glera, the main grape in Prosecco.  The name, Glera, wasn't adopted until 2009, for reasons that had  to do with protecting the Prosecco name from others benefiting from the success of the Veneto fizz.  

Up to 15% Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco (Blanc) and Pinot Grigio (Gris) can be added to Glera to boost the wine's aromatics and flavor.  In 2020, Pinot Nero (Noir) was allowed for Prosecco Rose.

While Champagne Brut claims to be dry, Prosecco proudly admits to being off-dry.  Fact is, the percentage of residual sugars for both brut-style sparklers is about 1.2%, while Extra Dry is 1.7%.  And, Prosecco clocks in at a pleasant 10.5 to 11.5% alcohol, depending on style.  

Prosecco col fondo, or "with sediment," is a departure from standard Prosecco.  Col fondo is not disgorged and is bottled with the crown cap still in place.  The dry style spumante is capable of short-term aging (similar to Champagne) for added complexity.

 Other select Proseccos: Prosecco Superiore DOCG, from the best vineyards in Conegliano-Valdobbiadene and Asolo.  Not as well known as Valdobbiadene Prosecco, the wines of Asolo are popular among Prosecco fans.

How It's Made

Most Prosecco is made by cuve close (Charmat), a tank method named for a Frenchman.  However, Italian inventor, Federico Martinotti, developed the sealed tank method before Eugéne Charmat. Outside of Italy, though, credit for the process goes to the French. 

A base wine, with yeast and sugar, is put into a sealed pressure tank, for the second fermentation, the stage when the bubbles are made.  After the rapid second fermentation, sugar is added to adjust for style and the wine then goes directly to bottling.  

The main advantage of using the tank method is it's faster and more economical than a second fermentation in the bottle, such as is used for making Champagne.  Secondarily, the tank method is ideally suited to wine that does not normally age. The disadvantage is the wine may just taste like a nondescript wine with bubbles, lacking the depth and complexity of a bottle-fermented sparkling wine.

Critics claim that Prosecco is too sweet and tooty-fruity.  Bargain bin Prosecco, perhaps, but the best Brut Prosecco tastes like Golden Delicious apples and ripe luscious peaches.  Those enticing flavors bring out the best in cocktails like the Prosecco Mimosa and the Bellini.

An aside. I first visited Venice in the 1950s, before tourists crowded the romantic city's narrow byways and canals. I didn't know anything about Prosecco then. 

The last time I visited Venice, tourism had picked up considerably, so I avoided the popular sights for the relative quiet of a famous bar and the pleasures of a classic cocktail. 

Sometime between 1934 and 1948, the exact date is unclear, Giuseppe Cipriani founded Harry's Bar in Venice. Cipriani's lasting fame, though, was the creation of the Bellini, a blend of white peach puree and Prosecco, topped with a few drops of raspberry juice to give the cocktail a pink blush. 

The color reminded Cipriani of the pink hue of a painting by the 15th century Venetian artist, Giovanni Bellini. 

My Venetian Bellini was served lightly chilled in a flute-shaped glass. It had the touted pale pink color and luscious flavors of a perfectly ripe peach. 

A Bellini at Harry's was everything I hoped it would be.  

Tasting and Buying Prosecco 

Prosecco is casual fizz compared to the more formal Champagne bubbly. The attraction of Prosecco is its high fruit profile supported by a little sweetness. Add
brisk acidity and you have a characteristic Prosecco, just right as a balanced sipping wine, or the base for a wide array of cocktails.

Most Prosecco is priced about $25 or less. Prosecco Valdobbiadene and Prosecco col fondo are more. 

Look for these Proseccos: Ca' dei Zago, Ruggeri Vecchie, Col Vetoraz Valdobbiadene, Nino Franco, Bianca Vigna, Adriano Adami, La Marca. 

When confronted with an either-or decision, my brother was fond of saying, "That's why there's vanilla and chocolate ice cream."  The same simple logic works for deciding on sparkling wine: Champagne, sparkling wine, or Prosecco. 

 

Consorzio Prosecco DOC photo

 

Next post: Rhine Rieslings 

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Malbec

Ask a wine savvy person to name the birthplace of the Malbec grape and they are likely to  say Argentina.  That's because the South American country took to Malbec when it was losing favor in France.

On the other hand, the same wine savvy person might also hazard a guess for the French wine region of Cahors. Another good guess, but the home-ground of Malbec is Bordeaux, the famous wine region, not that far from Cahors, in southwest France. 

Historically, Malbec lingered in the background in Bordeaux, while maintaining a home base in Cahors, where it became known as Auxerrois.  Then, by the mid-20th century, having made a comeback from a damaging vine-pull scheme in Argentina, Malbec rose to international fame.

Malbec in Bordeaux

In Bordeaux, Malbec was relegated to second place, along with Petit Verdot, behind the more regal Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. That was the varietal makeup before 1956 when a severe frost swept through Bordeaux vineyards, especially in the left-bank vineyards of the Medoc.

Malbec never fully recovered and by 2011 there were only a few thousand producing acres of Malbec left in all of Bordeaux. Today, Malbec is included in traditional Bordeaux blends by some chateaux, but it is not bottled as a varietal.  Malbec stayed constant in Cahors and today it is widely planted. 

Cahors castle looming over a vineyard           

Malbec in Cahors

Cahors  is an ancient wine region producing a "modern" wine.  In the 19th century, Cahors red wines were known as "black wines" for their deep inky color and were used mainly to give color to weaker Bordeaux wines.  Near the end of the century, phylloxera drastically reduced the vineyards, followed by a second setback in 1957, when a hard freeze nearly destroyed all of the vines. 

Growers rebounded with a replanting scheme of Malbec, or Cot as the variety is known locally. Improvements also included more modern winery equipment and  wine making techniques. 

Today's Cahors is at least 70% Malbec, with Tannat and/or Merlot making up the balance. Having a blending choice allows winemakers to opt either for the harder more tannic Tannat, the softer Merlot, or use both varieties.  Moving away from the heavier "black wine of Cahors" to a lighter fruitier style, positions Cahors as a modern red wine with international appeal.

The taste of Cahors is ripe plums, raisins and subtle earthy notes. Oak adds spice to the overall complexity.  The level of tannin in the finish depends if the wine is a straight Malbec, or a blend with Merlot or Tannat.

Popular Cahors brands:  Clos La Cautale, Ch. la Caminade, Ch. du Cedre, Ch. Lamartine, Jouves & Croisille, Ch. la Coustarelle.

Malbec in Argentina 

In the early years of wine making in Argentina, starting in the 16th century, grape growing and wine making were under the aegis of the Catholic church.  Eventually, the Church's grip began to loosen and finally dissolved for everything but sacramental wine.

Malbec was imported from France in 1851 and steadily grew in popularity in the vineyards of Mendoza, the largest wine region in Argentina.  Besides its popularity as a varietal, Malbec is the dominant variety in red blends, with Cabernet Sauvignon a secondary component.

Although Mendoza Malbec is known throughout the world, other Argentine regions such as San Juan, Salta and La Rioja produce noteworthy varietal Malbec.

Argentine Malbec is deeply colored, occasionally with purple tints.  The wines are robust, with lush fruit flavors, good acidity and moderate to full tannins.  

Look for Argentine Malbec from Catena, Familia Zuccardi, Luigi Bosca. Terrazas de Los Andes.

                                          

Malbec Elsewhere

At last count, Washington state has about two dozen different Malbecs, both varietal and in blends, including Barnard Griffin, Patterson Cellars, Ch. Ste. Michelle, Walla Walla Vintners.  

Most of the Malbec grown in California's north coast goes into blends, but there are also varietal Malbecs from Sebastiani, Crane Lake, Justin, Silverado Vineyards.

Australia has a handful from producers like Henschke and Taltarni.  New Zealand and Chile, even fewer.  

 For your next encounter with Malbec, arrange a vertical tasting of one wine from each of the areas where Malbec is made.  Invite a few friends over and enjoy!

 

Correction:  The total number of Cru Bourgeois chateaux that made it into the classification is 170, not 220, as I reported in the February 22, 2025  post.  The breakout, as of 2025: 120 recognized as Cru Bourgeois, 36 as Cru Bourgeois Supérieur and 14 wines as Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel.

 

Cahors & Malbec photos: Freepik

Next post: Prosecco Rising

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