Prosecco Rising

  

Are Champagne houses pricing their bubbly out of the U.S. wine market?  It's a timely question, since sales of the elite French fizz are slumping, while the market for a more prosaic sparkling wine is soaring. 

What wine is that?  Prosecco, the northern Italian spumante that is setting sales records, everywhere it is sold.  

According to the Consorzio Prosecco DOC, more than 660 million bottles of Prosecco were sold in 2024,   up 7% over the previous year.  More than 76% were Extra Dry and Brut and 8% was the rising Sparkling Rose category. Prosecco DOC amounts to nearly 25% of Italy's total sparkling wine production.  

The grape responsible for all that impressive performance is Glera, the main grape in Prosecco.  The name, Glera, wasn't adopted until 2009, for reasons that had  to do with protecting the Prosecco name from others benefiting from the success of the Veneto fizz.  

Up to 15% Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco (Blanc) and Pinot Grigio (Gris) can be added to Glera to boost the wine's aromatics and flavor.  In 2020, Pinot Nero (Noir) was allowed for Prosecco Rose.

While Champagne Brut claims to be dry, Prosecco proudly admits to being off-dry.  Fact is, the percentage of residual sugars for both brut-style sparklers is about 1.2%, while Extra Dry is 1.7%.  And, Prosecco clocks in at a pleasant 10.5 to 11.5% alcohol, depending on style.  

Prosecco col fondo, or "with sediment," is a departure from standard Prosecco.  Col fondo is not disgorged and is bottled with the crown cap still in place.  The dry style spumante is capable of short-term aging (similar to Champagne) for added complexity.

 Other select Proseccos: Prosecco Superiore DOCG, from the best vineyards in Conegliano-Valdobbiadene and Asolo.  Not as well known as Valdobbiadene Prosecco, the wines of Asolo are popular among Prosecco fans.

How It's Made

Most Prosecco is made by cuve close (Charmat), a tank method named for a Frenchman.  However, Italian inventor, Federico Martinotti, developed the sealed tank method before Eugéne Charmat. Outside of Italy, though, credit for the process goes to the French. 

A base wine, with yeast and sugar, is put into a sealed pressure tank, for the second fermentation, the stage when the bubbles are made.  After the rapid second fermentation, sugar is added to adjust for style and the wine then goes directly to bottling.  

The main advantage of using the tank method is it's faster and more economical than a second fermentation in the bottle, such as is used for making Champagne.  Secondarily, the tank method is ideally suited to wine that does not normally age. The disadvantage is the wine may just taste like a nondescript wine with bubbles, lacking the depth and complexity of a bottle-fermented sparkling wine.

Critics claim that Prosecco is too sweet and tooty-fruity.  Bargain bin Prosecco, perhaps, but the best Brut Prosecco tastes like Golden Delicious apples and ripe luscious peaches.  Those enticing flavors bring out the best in cocktails like the Prosecco Mimosa and the Bellini.

An aside. I first visited Venice in the 1950s, before tourists crowded the romantic city's narrow byways and canals. I didn't know anything about Prosecco then. 

The last time I visited Venice, tourism had picked up considerably, so I avoided the popular sights for the relative quiet of a famous bar and the pleasures of a classic cocktail. 

Sometime between 1934 and 1948, the exact date is unclear, Giuseppe Cipriani founded Harry's Bar in Venice. Cipriani's lasting fame, though, was the creation of the Bellini, a blend of white peach puree and Prosecco, topped with a few drops of raspberry juice to give the cocktail a pink blush. 

The color reminded Cipriani of the pink hue of a painting by the 15th century Venetian artist, Giovanni Bellini. 

My Venetian Bellini was served lightly chilled in a flute-shaped glass. It had the touted pale pink color and luscious flavors of a perfectly ripe peach. 

A Bellini at Harry's was everything I hoped it would be.  

Tasting and Buying Prosecco 

Prosecco is casual fizz compared to the more formal Champagne bubbly. The attraction of Prosecco is its high fruit profile supported by a little sweetness. Add
brisk acidity and you have a characteristic Prosecco, just right as a balanced sipping wine, or the base for a wide array of cocktails.

Most Prosecco is priced about $25 or less. Prosecco Valdobbiadene and Prosecco col fondo are more. 

Look for these Proseccos: Ca' dei Zago, Ruggeri Vecchie, Col Vetoraz Valdobbiadene, Nino Franco, Bianca Vigna, Adriano Adami, La Marca. 

When confronted with an either-or decision, my brother was fond of saying, "That's why there's vanilla and chocolate ice cream."  The same simple logic works for deciding on sparkling wine: Champagne, sparkling wine, or Prosecco. 

 

Consorzio Prosecco DOC photo

 

Next post: Rhine Rieslings 

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Malbec

Ask a wine savvy person to name the birthplace of the Malbec grape and they are likely to  say Argentina.  That's because the South American country took to Malbec when it was losing favor in France.

On the other hand, the same wine savvy person might also hazard a guess for the French wine region of Cahors. Another good guess, but the home-ground of Malbec is Bordeaux, the famous wine region, not that far from Cahors, in southwest France. 

Historically, Malbec lingered in the background in Bordeaux, while maintaining a home base in Cahors, where it became known as Auxerrois.  Then, by the mid-20th century, having made a comeback from a damaging vine-pull scheme in Argentina, Malbec rose to international fame.

Malbec in Bordeaux

In Bordeaux, Malbec was relegated to second place, along with Petit Verdot, behind the more regal Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. That was the varietal makeup before 1956 when a severe frost swept through Bordeaux vineyards, especially in the left-bank vineyards of the Medoc.

Malbec never fully recovered and by 2011 there were only a few thousand producing acres of Malbec left in all of Bordeaux. Today, Malbec is included in traditional Bordeaux blends by some chateaux, but it is not bottled as a varietal.  Malbec stayed constant in Cahors and today it is widely planted. 

Cahors castle looming over a vineyard           

Malbec in Cahors

Cahors  is an ancient wine region producing a "modern" wine.  In the 19th century, Cahors red wines were known as "black wines" for their deep inky color and were used mainly to give color to weaker Bordeaux wines.  Near the end of the century, phylloxera drastically reduced the vineyards, followed by a second setback in 1957, when a hard freeze nearly destroyed all of the vines. 

Growers rebounded with a replanting scheme of Malbec, or Cot as the variety is known locally. Improvements also included more modern winery equipment and  wine making techniques. 

Today's Cahors is at least 70% Malbec, with Tannat and/or Merlot making up the balance. Having a blending choice allows winemakers to opt either for the harder more tannic Tannat, the softer Merlot, or use both varieties.  Moving away from the heavier "black wine of Cahors" to a lighter fruitier style, positions Cahors as a modern red wine with international appeal.

The taste of Cahors is ripe plums, raisins and subtle earthy notes. Oak adds spice to the overall complexity.  The level of tannin in the finish depends if the wine is a straight Malbec, or a blend with Merlot or Tannat.

Popular Cahors brands:  Clos La Cautale, Ch. la Caminade, Ch. du Cedre, Ch. Lamartine, Jouves & Croisille, Ch. la Coustarelle.

Malbec in Argentina 

In the early years of wine making in Argentina, starting in the 16th century, grape growing and wine making were under the aegis of the Catholic church.  Eventually, the Church's grip began to loosen and finally dissolved for everything but sacramental wine.

Malbec was imported from France in 1851 and steadily grew in popularity in the vineyards of Mendoza, the largest wine region in Argentina.  Besides its popularity as a varietal, Malbec is the dominant variety in red blends, with Cabernet Sauvignon a secondary component.

Although Mendoza Malbec is known throughout the world, other Argentine regions such as San Juan, Salta and La Rioja produce noteworthy varietal Malbec.

Argentine Malbec is deeply colored, occasionally with purple tints.  The wines are robust, with lush fruit flavors, good acidity and moderate to full tannins.  

Look for Argentine Malbec from Catena, Familia Zuccardi, Luigi Bosca. Terrazas de Los Andes.

                                          

Malbec Elsewhere

At last count, Washington state has about two dozen different Malbecs, both varietal and in blends, including Barnard Griffin, Patterson Cellars, Ch. Ste. Michelle, Walla Walla Vintners.  

Most of the Malbec grown in California's north coast goes into blends, but there are also varietal Malbecs from Sebastiani, Crane Lake, Justin, Silverado Vineyards.

Australia has a handful from producers like Henschke and Taltarni.  New Zealand and Chile, even fewer.  

 For your next encounter with Malbec, arrange a vertical tasting of one wine from each of the areas where Malbec is made.  Invite a few friends over and enjoy!

 

Correction:  The total number of Cru Bourgeois chateaux that made it into the classification is 170, not 220, as I reported in the February 22, 2025  post.  The breakout, as of 2025: 120 recognized as Cru Bourgeois, 36 as Cru Bourgeois Supérieur and 14 wines as Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel.

 

Cahors & Malbec photos: Freepik

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Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois

  

There is Bordeaux red wine and then there is Bordeaux red wine.  By that, I mean classified growth wines from the Medoc and Cru Bourgeois Medoc wines. 

What is the difference?  Well, besides price, which for the classified growths is scary, the princely classified wines are ensconced in the preferred terroir of St.  Estephe, Margaux, Pauillac and St. Julien. While moderately-priced Cru Bourgeois red wines come from the lesser terroirs of Medoc, Haut-Medoc, Listrac-Medoc and Moulis-en-Medoc.

That classification is not my opinion. It is the rankings set down by official Bordeaux agencies in 1855 of Medoc classified growths, and in 1932 of Cru Bourgeois. In the 170 years since 1855, there has only been one official change to the classification, while the official ranking of the Cru Bourgeois wines has been updated numerous times. 

I was reminded of the chasm of difference between the two levels of Bordeaux red wines  recently when I read about the 2025 classification of  Cru Bourgeois Medoc wines. Before 2025, the previous ranking was in 2020, a decree that the new revised classification will be released every five years.  

Today, 246 Cru Bourgeois properties are ranked below the classified growths.  When the classification was first drawn up in 1932, there were 444 estates.  Over the years, for numerous reasons, including the economy and going out of business, the number was reduced almost by half. 

As of 2025, Cru Bourgeois wines are now ranked by a blind tasting panel in three tiers: Crus Bourgeois, Cru Bourgeois  Superieur, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel.  Additionally, the estates must practice sustainable viticulture, with the highest levels for Superieur  and Exceptionnel.  

Cru Bourgeois red wines are mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, with the addition of Merlot and/or Cabernet Franc.  Aging in oak, plus more updated vineyard practices and wine making, are  practiced mostly by estates in the upper two levels, that are more able to afford higher overhead.

With so many estates spread over a large area, plus subtle differences in terroir, the flavors of Cru Bourgeois wines can be difficult to describe.  But, expect most of the wines  to have a flavor profile favoring the black currant side of Cabernet Sauvignon. Also, there could be a textural plumpness, depending on how much Merlot is in the blend.  And tannin is there for structure but is not raw and astringent.

Since 1932, Cru Bourgeois members have moved up or down in the rankings and even dropped out.  And there are a few estates that have decided to not join the official classification.  

As of 2010 classification, six of the original Exceptionnel chateaux - de Pez, les Ormes de Pez, Poujeaux, Chassse-Spleen, Siran and Potensac - have decided to form Les Exceptionnels group to market their wines separate from the classification.

Here are the numbers for 2020 and 2025:

             2020                                                 2025

Cru Bourgeois, 179                                 Cru Bourgeois, 170

Cru Bourgeois Superieur, 56               Cru Bourgeois Superieur, 36

Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, 14         Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, 14 

Although there was no change at the top Exceptionnel level, the two lower levels saw reduced numbers, with the largest at the Superieur tier, resulting in a total of 220 members in 2025, down from 249 five years ago.

There is a wide range of prices for Cru Bourgeois, even within each of the three levels. For example,  Ch. Carbon La Pelouse, Haut-Medoc Exceptionnel is $27 and Ch. Belle Vue Haut-Medoc Exceptionnel, varies from $18 to $25.  Others include Ch. Saransot Dupree Listrac-Medoc Superieur, $44 and Ch. Lagrave, Cru Bourgeois, $30.  

Shop around, but if you like the Bordeaux taste, make your next wine purchase Cru Bourgeois.

Photo courtesy Jancis Robinson

 

Next post: Prosecco Rising

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Alsace in Anderson

                                                                          Wikipedia

Until recently, interest in wine was making slow but steady progress.  But then, anti-alcohol advocates spoiled the party with a scare campaign and wine sales slowed to a crawl.  Of course, it wasn't all because of anti-alcohol.  There were those saying the problem might also be changing lifestyles and the emergence of a new generation interested more in other beverages.

To be sure, finding innovative ways to attract more wine drinkers has become more challenging, but not impossible.  So, what to do?  How to overcome shifting interests by adjusting the focus to something different?

Showing the curious what you do best is a proven strategy, proposed by a small group of wineries in western Mendocino's Anderson Valley.  Husch Vineyards, Navarro Vineyards, Handley Cellars and Lazy Creek Vineyards banded together in 2006 to form a  festival promoting aromatic white wines, that say Anderson Valley. 

An idea was hatched to feature Alsace-style aromatic white wines the Anderson Valley is known for -- Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc -- at the Anderson Valley Alsace White Wine Festival, now known as the Anderson Valley International White Wine Festival.

Aromatic white grapes don't do well in warmer parts of California.  But in Anderson Valley,   the climate is just right, with warm days to ripen the grapes, and cool nights to develop clearly defined varietal character and crisp acidity.

The harmonization of these conditions come together along the valley's 16-mile long  narrow corridor that opens in the west to the cool Pacific Ocean.  Morning fog and cool daytime breezes, drawn in by inland warmth, balance the growing conditions for grapes to make aromatic white wines. 

                                                  

Riesling is the leading white grape in Germany's northern Rhine and Mosel valleys, and across the Rhine River in the Alsace region of France.  By one measure, Riesling is the world's greatest white grape, no contest.  Other folks claim the greatest is Chardonnay. But Riesling is more versatile, capable of making stunning dry, off-dry and sweet wines, something Chardonnay can't claim. 

Anderson Valley wineries have continuously shown an ability to make all of these styles.  Riesling can be dry or sweet and do it with charm. At its most characteristic, Riesling has ample peach and apricot flavors, with mineral and citrus peel notes.  And with maturity, Riesling displays characteristic petrol accents. 

 Anderson Valley Riesling: Greenwood Ridge Vineyards, Toulouse Vineyards, Navarro Vineyards. 

                                          

 Gewurztraminer is more aromatic than Riesling, with upfront exotic spice and lychee notes. Americans, though, are not that familiar with the scent of lychee outside of Asian food scenes.  More often, people say Gewurztraminer reminds them of the smell of roses.

Gewurztraminer started out as Traminer in Italy's northern Alto Adige region, moved north to Germany, then west to Alsace, across the Rhine in France.  Much later, the grape was brought to the U.S. west coast. 

Anderson Valley wineries show a stronger preference for Gewurztraminer than Riesling. Over the years, Navarro Vineyards, among others, has made award-winning dry and late-harvest Gewurztraminers.  

Anderson Valley Gewurztraminer: Handley Cellars, Husch Vineyards, Toulouse Vineyards, Fathers & Daughters Cellars, Navarro Vineyards, Philo Ridge Vineyards. 

                                                

Pinot Gris smells like honey, ripe pears and exotic spices.  Although not as well known as either Riesling or Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, in the same family as Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc, is made by a handful of Anderson Valley wineries. 

Anderson Valley Pinot Gris: Lichen Estate, Breggo Cellars, Toulouse Vineyards, Long Meadow Ranch, Handley Cellars, Navarro Vineyards.

                                                  

Pinot Blanc is often mistaken for Chardonnay.  And, with a little oak, it does smell and taste like Chardonnay, although Pinot Blanc is not as popular.  Sans oak, Pinot Blanc smells like apples, melons and sometimes with an earthy note.

Anderson Valley Pinot Blanc: Navarro Vineyards, Handley Cellars.  

The two-day Anderson Valley International White Wine Festival, February 15-16, will be held at the Mendocino County Fairgrounds in Boonville.  The Grand Tasting, at which more than 40 wineries will pour their white wines, will be on Saturday, with winery open houses, on Sunday. 

Next blog: Malbec

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Walla Walla

                                                                                                                 Richard Duval image

 Walla Walla.  To the indigenous Salantins, the name means "place of many waters."  But, to wine people everywhere, Walla Walla means some of Washington state's best wine. 

Located in southeastern Washington, on the border with Oregon, Walla Walla shares top-wine honors with Woodinville, in the western part of the state, near Seattle. The two regions are separated by miles of high desert, farmland and the Cascade mountain range.  Eastern Washington is also known for wheat farming and the famous Walla Walla sweet onions.

Walla Walla's 120-plus wineries are mostly scattered around the city of Walla Walla and in a corner of Oregon.  The Walla Walla AVA (1984) is a two-state appellation; Walla Walla in Washington, Milton-Freewater in Oregon.  Walla Walla AVA itself is within the much larger Columbia Valley AVA. 

Milton-Freewater was granted its own AVA in 2015 and has since gained wide attention for a particular geologic formation.  The Rocks District, a sub-appellation of Milton-Freewater, is in an ancient dry riverbed covered with large smooth stones, similar to the vineyards of Chateauneuf-du-Pape in France.  The Rocks has built a solid reputation for distinctive Syrah.

Walla Walla is red wine country.  More than 80% of varieties planted in the AVA are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.  Most of the remaining 20% is Cabernet Franc and small plantings of other red grapes.  White grapes, led by Chardonnay, account for just a small percentage of the total plantings.

                                 

Like most vineyards in eastern Washington, irrigation is necessary in Walla Walla AVA  vineyards. The eastern part of the appellation, though, tends to be at higher elevations, with  cooler daytime temperatures, permitting dry farming, a rarity for vineyards in Washington.

The other major concentration of Washington wineries is centered around the city of Woodinville, northeast of Seattle.  Woodinville hosts 130 wineries that draw grapes from throughout the vast Columbia Valley.  Being near Seattle makes it easy to visit Woodinville wineries, although the distance from a big city hasn't stopped wine lovers from making the trek to Walla Walla.

Walla Walla History 

Some settlers moving west along the Oregon Trail in the 19th century decided to stay in eastern Washington, finding the land around Walla Walla good for farming.  In the 1850s, grape vines were added to the crops, for eating out of hand and making wine.  Vineyards expanded and by the 1880s, growers were hoping to ship grapes and wine to Seattle by train.  But the transcontinental railroad had bypassed Walla Walla, dealing an economic blow to the nascent wine industry.  Prohibition dealt another setback, and it was nearly 40 years before the wine industry began to recover. 

Today, fans of the diverse range of Walla Walla wines, owe a debt of gratitude to Gary Figgins of Leonetti Cellar, who is credited with being the first to plant vinifera vines in the area, in the early 1970s.  Leonetti went on to win acclaim for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Throughout the 1970s and 1980s, Walla Walla wine got a further boost from L'Ecole 41, Woodward Canyon, Waterbrook Winery and Seven Hills Winery in Oregon, all of them iconic Walla Walla AVA wineries.

By 2008, a long list of new wineries came on line, sparking interest in different wines, such as those made from Rhone varieties, the odd Italian grape like Sangiovese, and Tempranillo, Spain's most distinguished red variety.  

The Rhone Rangers, started in California, raised interest among Walla Walla winemakers, in Rhone-style wines, especially for Syrah.  Prospective Rangers in the Walla Walla AVA, like Rotie, a small producer that took its name from Cote Rotie, a Northern Rhone Valley wine, embraced the Rhone wine concept.  

Walla Walla Wines

Walla Walla is best known for Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux-style blends, incorporating Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Besides Syrah, a handful of wineries are working with other Rhone grapes, like Viognier and Roussanne. 

The following dozen Walla Walla-area wineries are listed by location:   

East of the city: Figgins, Walla Walla Vintners, Leonetti Cellars. 

West of the city: L'Ecole No. 41, Long Shadows Vintners, Woodward Canyon. 

South of the city: Pepper Bridge Winery, Doubleback, Patterson Cellars.  

Milton-Freewater: Atelier Freewater, Rotie Cellars, Watermill Winery.

On your next trip to the wine store, look for the Washington wine section and Walla Walla. It's worth the search.  

 

Next post: Prosecco Rising

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Vin Jaune

 

 

Vin Jaune in a clavelin with Comte cheese

 

Imagine how boring life would be if the only wine you had to drink was Chardonnay, or Cabernet Sauvignon.  Some people are good with that and others, like me, want something different.

Such as, Vin Jaune, or "yellow wine," an unusual French wine that is more Spanish, in character, than French.  Vin Jaune is made like Sherry, looks like Sherry and tastes like a dry fino.  

Another unusual thing about Vin Jaune is it comes in a traditional embossed bottle , called a clavelin, that until recently has been illegal for sale in the United States.  The reasoning is a confusing web of U.S. bureaucratic rules.  

Since 1941, the sale of Vin Juane in a clavelin has been illegal, because the 21 oz (620ml) bottle was not approved by the federal government.  Yet, it has been seen on store shelves in many places throughout the country.  

The irony is that in 1974, the federal agency controlling alcohol allowed  750ml and 375ml bottles, but not 620ml (21 oz), which continued to rule out the 21-ounce clavelin. Then, earlier this year, TTB approved the 21 oz bottle, so the sale of Vin Jaune in clavelin is now legal, which really doesn't change anything.

 The Tale of Yellow Wine

France is among the most standardized country in the world with its specific wine appellation  (AOC) system.  So, how then does a wine anomaly like Vin Jaune continue to exist in such a hide-bound environment?

Vin Jaune is made in small quantities in the foothills of the Jura mountains of eastern France, near the border with Switzerland.  Once an important wine region, with extensive vineyards, today planted acreage in Jura is a fraction of what it once was. 

Production of Vin Jaune is controlled within four appellations:  Chateau-Chalon AOC, Arbois AOC, Cotes de Jura AOC and Vin Jaune l'Etoile AOC. 

During the Middle Ages, more than 40 different varieties were used for Jura wines.  That number has dropped to five, with Savagnin (blanc) the most important.  Savagnin is a very old aromatic grape related to the Traminer, but not as aromatic as Gewurztraminer.  Although distinct from Sauvignon Blanc, DNA profiling has shown that Savagnin is the parent of numerous grapes, such as Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc.   

Savagnin undergoes a slow fermentation and then the wine is racked into small 60 gallon barrels and the magic begins.  Required aging for Vin Jaune is six years, from harvest to bottling.  During that period, winemakers closely monitor the wine, but it is not topped up. At the end of six years, about 60% of the wine remains.

The long oxidation causes a space to open above the wine, forming a thin layer of yeast, which takes up to three years to develop.  The yeast film is poetically called vin di voile or the veil.  Development of the veil is similar to the growth of flor on fino Sherry, although flor is thicker than the veil and resembles a layer of dirty cottage cheese.  

The importance of checking the wine's long maturation progress in wood is to make sure that volatile acidity (VA) doesn't develop.   If you've ever smelled vinegar in a wine, chances are that off odor is volatile acidity.  VA is the volatile acids in wine, such as acetic acid, that cause the tell tale vinegar smell.

Following barrel aging, Vin Jaune goes directly to bottling, without the fortification that is common in Sherry.  The Vin Jaune clavelin, supposedly is named for  the amount of wine remaining after six years of aging. 

Toasted nuts, especially walnuts, is the primary sensory note shared by both Vin Jaune and fino Sherry. But Vin Jaune develops a complexity from years in oak, with flavors of ripe apples, warm spices like cinnamon, dried fruits and sometimes an underlying cheesy note. 

Prices for Vin Jaune in clavelin range from $40 to hundreds of dollars.  A search may be required for these producers: Domaine Dugois, Tissot, Domaine Rolet, Jacques Puffeney, Ganenat, Domaine de Montbourgeau, Robert Gilliard, Maison Pierre Overnoy.

A final note: Every year, during the last week of January or first week of February, Vin Jaune producers gather, in a different location, for La Percée du Vin Juane, a festival to celebrate the release of the new vintage of Vin Jaune and local foods such as Comté cheese. 

Photo: Wikipedia

 

Next post: Walla Walla

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The Value of Aging Wine

                                     

With the holidays now a fading memory, my thoughts turn back to the aged wines enjoyed at the Boyd family table, or wines friends and family told me about.  Long ago, I became a believer in bottle aging red wine, so the positive reports I got of the wines below were not  surprising. 

I've never been satisfied with just the end result.  I want to know why.   Why do some wines age gracefully and others seem to stumble the older they get?   And why do certain wines reach their peak, while others have yet to arrive at that ultimate point of drinking pleasure?

The transformation of a red wine aging from raw youth to polished maturity is surely grounded in science, but for some wines, the change seems more like alchemy.

Although I've enjoyed my share of mature red wines that still had a way to go; I never fully understood why bottle aging resulted in a more complex wine.  So, I thought a non-scientific examination of the wine aging phenomenon would help me (and you, the reader) better understand what's going on.  The following exercise, I hope, will illustrate the benefits of aging.

How wine ages

Because of the intrinsic nature of red wine, they are the wines most capable of beneficial aging.  While it is not completely understood why wine benefits from aging, it is known that red wine has higher levels of grape phenolic compounds, in concert with other chemical elements, that are responsible for a red wine's color, texture and tannin, the necessary components of aging.

White wines, on the other hand, are lower in phenolics.  And whites become browner because of slow oxidation of their phenolic content.  However, white wines that are affected by botrytis (Riesling) and those with higher acidity, are more likely to benefit from bottle aging.  Barrel aging of white wines, like Chardonnay, also has some influence on aging.

Wines that benefited from aging

In the early years of my wine collecting, I kept a cellar log, recording the history of the wine, from when I got the wine, the date I drank it, and my tasting notes.  Eventually, I lost interest in the log and just enjoyed the wines.  

Here are seven wines that gave me an extra measure of pleasure and that I'm glad I let age before pulling the corks: 

Franco & Fiorina 1950 Barbaresco...Heitz Cellar 1999 Napa Valley Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon...Fetzer Vineyards 1999 Bien Nacido Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir...Silver Oak 1995 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon...Penfolds 1998 South Australia Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon (magnum)...Williams Selyem 2012 Russian River Valley Foss Vineyard Pinot Noir...I.V.M. 1954 Boal Madeira.

And, to further explore the idea of bottle aging, I've asked two of my sons and a few friends  to comment on aged wines they have had recently.  Plus, there's a personal note on a Cabernet Sauvignon enjoyed at the Boyd family 2024 Christmas dinner. 

Bill Traverso, an old friend and fellow wine judge, California: "Years ago, I bought a bottle of 1945 Chateau Lafite, to be opened for one of my birthdays or the year 2000.  I ended up having it for my sixtieth birthday (Bill didn't  say when that was) at a small Italian restaurant in Santa Rosa. The wine still had structure and identifiable fruit aromas plus the bouquet of an aged Cabernet blend.  In my opinion there was still enough tannin and fruit for the wine to carry on for at least 10 more years."

Sean Boyd, co-owner/winemaker, Sightglass Cellars, Washington state:  "On New Year’s Eve, Kristin and I had dinner at our friends Shaun and Kelly's house.  I brought a 1990 Arrowood (Sonoma) Cabernet Sauvignon.  It was a gamble, because of the age, but totally worth it. The color was still amazing and dark/ruby.  It smelled like Cabernet, but the best part was how much fruit was left and how smooth it was.  It turned out the hit of the night."

Mark Boyd, consumer and wine collector, Washington state:  "In April 2024, I had a 2010 Woodinville Wine Cellars Cabernet Franc, with Sean, paired with BBQ rib eyes.  I remember the wine holding up very well and the cork was in great condition.  I think it was better than I remember other Cab Francs I've had. The wine was definitely mature and ready to drink and it stood up nicely with the dry rubbed ribs."

Rich Marschner, a close friend and fellow wine traveler, Arizona, submitted this entertaining report on a 1991 Vine Cliff Cellars Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, "Oh, that cork.  But if I didn't have my Ah-So,  I'd have been Dead-Meat.  It was broken, the top section dry as dust and the bottom soaked.

"First impressions:  'This is an Amarone.'  But of course it isn't.  Cigar leaf, plus a big sniff of raisin.  Medium dark color, with a little brown edge, but not prominent.  Good acid, medium sort-of-generic-tasting fruit.  Baby-soft tannins.  Some sediment.  Doubt I would recognize this as a cab, had I not known. "We're having it with Wiley's (his wife) all-day effort at beef short-ribs. 

 "Well, we've sucked it all down and it held up remarkably well, not showing fading fruit at all.  Nice match to the big, wonderfully dark and complex short-ribs, due to the 

acid (if somewhat short on fruit).  We thought it was quite good, and a very interesting wine."

 

                                             

 

Denis Broderick, an old friend who introduced me to "Irish Wine" (Bushmills Whiskey), Northern Ireland:  "I must admit, up front, that I belong to the school that appreciates wines that have a bit of maturity, with age being relative, and appropriate for the specific wine.  

"With that in mind, it normally helps if you have several bottles of the same wine/vintage, thus able to appreciate how the wine is evolving and the resulting changes to balance, complexity and personality, and hopefully, all positive.

"For example, I bought, en primeur, clarets (Bordeaux) of 2000, 2005 and 2009 vintages; plus, on release, Graham’s Vintage Port 2003, to open at family weddings and births. Once cracked open, we relive the events responsible for the purchase.  Last year, for example, we used the port to help with grandson Aodhan’s 21^st birthday, and to ponder where the years had flown!

"Further to the value of aging, the one wine that stood out was The Armagh 2001, from Jim Barry in Australia's Clare Valley. The label mentioned 'Special Late Harvest Shiraz' that punches in at 15%.  And there's the Irish link with Armagh, Clare and Jim Barry. 

"So, I bought two bottles of the wine after Armagh won the All-Ireland Gaelic football final, for the first time, in 2002, between Armagh and Kerry.  The first bottle was corked, so the expectation was not great when opening the second.  However, I was not disappointed, but relieved; it was drinking perfectly.  Bright, hint of brown and very deep color. Definitely Shiraz on the nose and palate (with tobacco hints), but so rich and heavy and with some silkiness.  Great structure and length.  A perfect match with the Roast Rib of Beef.

"Whilst we enjoyed the wine, I relived watching the match live – on a bike fitness machine in the local leisure centre!  The match went back and forth, but  in the end, Kerry went on to win their first All-Ireland.  But Armagh came back, winning the All-Ireland in 2024, this time against Galway. A well-deserved win, albeit 22 years after the first.  Again, like wine, well worth the waiting! 

"Come to think of it: wine must be the only reason in life for wanting to get old, quickly."

The Boyd Christmas dinner wine was an impressive Ridge 1989 Santa Cruz Mountains Monte Bello, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon , Merlot and Petite (sic) Verdot.  Elegant and refined, beautifully balanced, with staying power; could easily have been mistaken for a classified growth Bordeaux. 

Impressions gained from drinking aged wine, can only be attained through patience. That's where wine's true value is.

 

Next post: Vin Jaune

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Chablis

Chablis vineyards in Autumn/Adobe image

To oak or not to oak?  That's the question that has been troubling Chablis producers since the end of the 19th century.  

While most fine white Burgundies, made from Chardonnay, are fermented and aged in oak, the question of oak contact in Chablis, also made from Chardonnay, is up to the individual winery.  Many things are certain in Chablis, but not the use of oak. 

The use of oak is not the only difference between the two wines.  Chablis and the Cote de Beaune, a part of southern Cote d'Or, are separated by geography.  Chablis is the most northern part of Burgundy, more than 60 miles to the northeast of Cote d'Or, closer to Champagne than Burgundy.  This odd arrangement goes back to the 15th century when Chablis became part of the Duchy of Burgundy.

Thus, geography places Chablis far from the equator, subject to the variable and uncertain effects of a northern continental climate, and the threat of Spring frosts.  Weather variables have a major impact on grape quality and harvest quantity. 

The Chablis Commission says that vineyard production has reached maximum and that growers are dealing with challenging problems like bad weather in 2024 that resulted in very low wine production.

Wine making under these conditions, in both Chablis and Cote d'Or, is reflected in the character of the wines. Unoaked Chardonnay from Chablis is crisp and mineral, while the Cote de Beaune Chardonnay is fuller, with spice from time spent in oak.  

Oaked Chablis becomes a different wine, while still reflecting its terroir.  And in Chablis, as it is everywhere in France, vineyard terroir is everything.

Chablis winemakers wanting to retain a mineral characteristic, known locally as gout to pierre à fusil (the taste of gunflint), prefer stainless steel fermentation. Other winemakers,  favoring the use of oak, like the extra dimension, provided by oak, in the wine's taste and structure.

Quality levels for Chablis are based on vineyards.  Within each of the four levels, there are specific vineyards, often mentioned on the label.  At the top are Grand Cru Chablis are seven named vineyards, including Les Clos and Valdesir.  Next are Premier Cru Chablis from 79 named vineyards.

                                                                              

 The two lowest levels, Chablis and Petit Chablis, vie for authenticity and quality.  Those wines labeled Chablis are from anywhere in the appellation, whereas Petit Chablis are made from lesser vineyards or plots. 

Officially, Petit Chablis wines are rated lower in quality, but lately some producers have been more selective about vineyards and wine making, thus the positioning may be shifting. 

Petit Chablis is selling well in the United States, helping to make the U.S. the top market for all Chablis.  The market is seeing rising prices for all Burgundy, causing astute shoppers to see Petit Chablis as Burgundian Chardonnay at a more reasonable price.  

Prices for Burgundy, including Chablis, are all over the board: Puligny-Montrachet, $120 to $300+;  Chablis Grand Cru, $120 to $200+; Chablis Premier Cru, $35 to $50; Petit Chablis, $25; Chablis, $15 to $30. 

There will always be a demand for great Chardonnay, whether it be from the Cote de Beaune, Chablis, California or Australia.  With steadily rising prices, now may be a good time to look at Chablis.

 

Next post: The Value of Aging Wine

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Lombardy

                          

At an unknown time in the distant past, an odd geologic upheaval formed what is today the country of Italy, shaped like a long high heel boot. Economics and politics exerted a different force, in present day Italy, shaping the country into an industrial north and an agricultural south.

Milan, the great industrial city of northern Italy, developed as the economic force of Lombardy, the most populous region in the country.  And, Milan became the center of a burgeoning wine culture in Lombardy and neighboring Piedmont. 

In Lombardy, the cool growing climate is ideally suited for the production of much of Italy's best sparkling wine in the region of Franciacorta.  Historically, while Franciacorta developed as Italy's leading producer of high-end spumante, the region did not come on the scene until the 1960s. 

Franciacorta spumante (the Italian word for sparkling wine) is  made in the hills near Brescia.  The spumante is made by the traditional Champagne method from Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir), Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco (Pinot Blanc).  Most of the top houses, like Ca' del Bosco, favor a higher percentage of Chardonnay in their blends. 

There's a lot of speculation about when the French varieties arrived in Franciacorta, but the money seems to be during the replanting of the vineyards after the devastation of phylloxera had passed.  In an homage to Champagne, Franciacorta spumante sports French label language  and uses the same residual sweetness levels as Champagne.

While Champagne deserves its reputation for elegant, refined sparkling wine, Franciacorta produces an equally good bubbly.  Unfortunately, the Italian wine does not enjoy the same prestige as the French wine.

Oltrepo Pavese, Lombardy's oldest sparkling wine region, in the Pavia zone, supplies Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes for the production of spumante in neighboring Piedmont.  The spumante from Pavia is made according to the traditional Champagne method.  Other authorized varieties include Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio (Pinot Gris), two grapes that give the sparklers a decided Italian character.   

The requirement for spumante is a minimum of 70% Pinot Noir, and the wines must be aged on the lees for at least 15 months, or 24 months for vintage wines.  Oltrepo Pavese was granted DOCG status in 2007.

In the 1960s, English wine writer, Cyril Ray, did not mention Oltrepo Pavese in his book, "The Wines of Italy."  Twenty years later, American writer, Burton Anderson, in his seminal book "Vino" declared the wines of Oltrepo Pavese, "conspicuously underrated."  

Things have improved for Oltrepo since Anderson wrote that  in the early 1980s.  Today, the area is best-known for still red wine, made from Pinot Noir.

 The rest of Lombardy is divided into several DOCs, and with one exception, they are lesser known than the heavy hitters on the Italian wine list, like Barolo and Chianti. 

While Lombardy's two sparkling wines follow the French methodology, Lambrusco became an international best seller as a distinctly Italian wine, taking the American market by storm in the 1980s.  The popular Lambrusco is a version from four production zones in Emilia-Romagna, south of Lombardy, across the Po river.  Lombardy's claim to Lambrusco is Lambrusco Mantovano, a lightly sparkling ((frizzante) red wine, made from the Lambrusco grape. 

Exclusivity on Lake Garda

Lake Garda is one of the loveliest spots in Italy; if you can afford it.  Lugana, a dry white wine produced in a small area south of the lake helps ease the sticker shock of living large on Garda and nearby Lake Como.  Lugana, made from Trebbiano di Lugana, has a trace of mineral, likely from the limestone and clay in the zone's best vineyards. 

Not far from the border with Switzerland, in an alpine valley, is Valtellina, a DOC red wine, made from Nebbiolo (known locally as Chiavennasca), the same high-value grape in Barolo and Barbaresco, from neighboring Piedmont.  The mountainous terrain and terraced vineyards of Valtellina give the Nebbiolo wines a certain "nervousness," the local way of describing the wine's brisk acidity.

Additionally, there are four single high-altitude vineyards in Valtellina, each with a different take on Nebbiolo: Grumello, Inferno, Sassella and Valgella. These four red wines are labeled Valtellina Superiore and are mostly available in major U. S. markets.

Piemontese wines may get a lot of attention for its stellar red wines, but neighboring Lombardy wines have plenty of sparkle. 

(Italy "boot" - Getty image)

Next blog: Chablis: the alternate white Burgundy

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Carneros

In 1981, a young German couple arrived in an alien wine culture.  Markus Moller-Racke's father, director of the German wine and spirits firm, A. Racke, sent Markus to head up Racke's recent acquisition, historic Buena Vista Winery, in the Carneros wine region of Northern California.  Markus and his wife,  Anne Moller-Racke, a talented viticulturist, were anxious about their new adventure. 

Markus Moller-Racke

In Germany, the Moller-Rackes were used to steeply terraced vineyards, subject to a northern climate best suited to white varieties like Riesling and Muller-Thurgau.  They would encounter something different in Carneros; vineyards running along gently rolling hills, adjacent to a large body of water that tempered the climate for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. 

The Moller-Rackes met the challenge head on, injecting new energy into Buena Vista's vineyards and wines. By 2000, though, things had changed in Germany and the elder Moller-Rache decided his son should come home to run the family business.  The Moller-Rackes went their separate ways: Markus back to Germany, while Anne stayed in Carneros, running the very successful Donum Estate.

In the twenty years that the Moller-Rackes were in Carneros, the wine community came together to form the Carneros Wine Alliance, attract new wineries and grape growers and establish Carneros as one of California's premier wine regions. 

Carneros By the Numbers

Los Carneros means "the rams" in Spanish, an appropriate name since the land was once part of a Spanish land Grant, used as grazing pasture for large flocks of sheep.  In the late 1800s, Agoston Haraszthy, the Hungarian entrepreneur who brought premium grape varieties to California, planted the first vineyard in Carneros, overlooking San Pablo Bay.  The area's first winery opened in 1880 at the Stanly Ranch.  Today, the historic property is owned by Auberge Resorts.

San Pablo Bay, at the northern end of the San Francisco Bay, provides morning fog and cool breezes for the Carneros vineyards along the southern parts of Napa and Sonoma counties.  Los Carneros, granted an AVA in 1983 (amended in 2006), is one of many California AVAs located in more than one county. 

The bulk of the rural Carneros appellation is in Sonoma County, from the historic town of Sonoma in the north to a southern point near the famous Sears-Point Raceway.  There is a sameness to the land, from one county to the other. 

In wine terms, Carneros is defined by climate and not political lines.  At one time, the climate across Carneros was cooler than it is today.  Still, because it is close to the northern reaches of San Francisco Bay, Carneros can be cool, foggy and wet, the right growing environment for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. 

Once, California Pinot Noirs were few and far between.  Except for the occasional Pinots from Joseph Swan and Hanzell, the PN Revolution didn't get started until Russian River devotees came along in the late 1980s.  

Since then, interest has grown. Today, noteworthy Pinot Noir is being made in Carneros, and the Russian River Valley, Santa Barbara, Anderson Valley and Santa Lucia Highlands. Except for Anderson Valley, Pinots from the other areas tend to be more concentrated, with deeper black cherry flavors.  

In the early 1980s, new wineries making Burgundian-style wines came on line in Carneros,  including Saintsbury, Bouchaine, Acacia, Gloria Ferrer and Richardson.  Syrah and Merlot were added to the grape inventory, along with a growing list of other varieties, but it was Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that showed promise for still and sparkling wine.

During the same decade, the Carneros wine map added another new dimension, with the arrival of a handful of sparkling wine producers.   On the Napa side, Domaine Carneros, owned by Champagne Taittinger, opened its doors in 1987.  In Sonoma, Spain's Freixenet, a CAVA maker in Catalonia, began making sparkling wine under the Gloria Ferrer label.  Codorniu, another major CAVA maker, had Codorniu Napa, but converted to still wines, rebranding as Artesa.  

Today, there are more than 35 Carneros wineries making still and sparkling wines. On the Napa side, Carneros Creek lays claim to the oldest Carneros winery, operating since 1972. Mont St. John, a reliable maker of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, opened its doors in 1979. 

Although the effects of climate change will continue to alter the growing environment, for now Carneros Pinot Noir remains a lighter wine with more delicate berry flavors, supported by brisk acidity.  Carneros Chardonnay tastes of sweet-tart apples, spice and the zesty acidity characteristic of Carneros.

Sheep that once grazed on the rolling hills of Carneros are gone, replaced by a growing number of vineyards, supplying grapes for the distinctive wines of Los Carneros. 

Next post:  Italy's Northern Lombardy

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Pleasureable Port

Port is a fortified wine born of a trade war in the 17th century between English and French tradesmen.  Now, hundreds of years have passed, and Port, like most sweet wine, still appeals only to a relatively small group of wine collectors. 

Why the attraction mainly for collectors?  Because wine drinkers serious enough to build a collection understand that nearly all Port is to be aged before consumption.  Port is not at its best, except for most Ruby, within months of bottling.  Indeed, Vintage Port from a declared year, is not ready to drink until it has been in bottle for 20-30 years, or longer if the year was exceptional. 

The production of Port begins in the terraced vineyards of the upper Douro Valley.  Scattered among the rolling vineyards are estates that ship the new fortified wine down river to aging lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia across the river from Porto.  

The Eiffel-designed bridge over the Douro river

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are three terms to know that make understanding Port easier.  Port is a fortified wine that takes its name from the city of Porto, in northern Portugal.  Oporto is English for Porto.  Vinho do Porto is the official name for the Portuguese wine.  

Officially, Port can be made from a mind-boggling collection of 80 different grapes.  In practice, just five varieties are used today by most Port firms, including Touriga Nacional and Tina Roriz (Spain's Tempranillo).

A rapid fermentation is needed to extract maximum color and tannin from the deeply tinted grapes.  After two to three days, a fortifying spirit, of at least 70%, with approval of the Institudo dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto (IVDP), is added to stop the fermentation.  Specific styles of Port are then matured in oak barrels for varying times. 

Port styles range from young, ready-to-drink, to more complex requiring aging.  In general, there are two broad categories. Wood Ports (Ruby and Tawny) are aged mainly in oak barrels, then following filtration, are ready to drink.  Bottle aged Ports mature in wood for a short time, then are bottled and are not ready to drink for many years.  These are the specific styles. 

Ruby is the least expensive and simplest Port, aged in bulk for 2-3 years, then bottled while still ruby in color.  Many producers use proprietary names for their Ruby Port.  Rubies are grapy, with a rich texture and a hint of spice.  A Ruby with more character and depth may be called Reserva. Priced $20 and under.

Tawny  is, in theory, a Ruby that has lost its color and is now amber brown.  In practice, most Tawny sold today is made from lighter wines and sells for little more than a Ruby. Tawny tastes nutty and lightly caramel.  Aged Tawny is a "true" Tawny Port, aged for at least six years in wood and carries an indication of age on the label: 10, 20, up to 50 years.  Aged Tawny is a favorite of Port shippers.  Price: $25-$30.

Vintage is the most expensive and coveted style of Port.  Vintage Port is made only from select ripe grapes grown in the Cima Corgo, northern Douro.  When the majority of shippers agree on the quality of a vintage, and the IVDP approves, the year is "declared."  Generally, only three years in 10 are declared a vintage.  So far this century, these are declared vintages: 2000, 2003, 2007, 2011, 2016, 2017.  The 2017 Quinta do Vesuvio, is $85 and Graham's 1977 is $150.  Quantity made of a Vintage Port and demand set a premium price for a Vintage Port.   

Late Bottled Vintage is a Port  bottled between the fourth and sixth years after harvest.  Better LBVs are unfined and unfiltered, thus require decanting, like a Vintage. The most common LBVs are fined and sometimes filtered and are ready to drink sooner than a Vintage Port.  Many LBVs are $50 or less.

There are two more styles most often seen in wine shops specializing in fortified wines. Garrafeira means "reserve" and comes from a single year and must be aged a minimum of seven years in glass demijohns.  Colheita is a Tawny Port from a single year with the date of harvest on the label.  By law, a Colheita must be aged in wood for at least seven years.

Praise for Port

For a drink as revered and enjoyed by so many people, there is a surprising  dearth of quotable praise for Port.  But, I did find these tributes.  

H. Warner Allen, early 20th century English journalist mused: "Port is essentially the wine of philosophical contemplation." 

A more commonplace view of Port is this often heard paean, "Any port in the storm."  The idiom is not attributed to any one person, but is thought to describe a nautical term for sailors needing shelter, going back to at least 1749.  Nevertheless, the idiom is applied often to the wine.

If the enjoyment of sipping a well-aged Port gets a little out of hand, try this "hair of the dog that bit you" remedy: melt butter over hot water, stir in a dessertspoon of Worcestershire sauce, the same quantity of orange juice, a pinch of cayenne, and about half a wineglass of old port.  Take some freshly browned toast and soak in the mixture before eating.  The concoction is known as the "Coalman," presumably referring to the man who worked in a coal mine, or maybe the guy who once delivered coal to your house.

Port and Food

Finally, a few words about Port with food.  Ruby and Tawny with no age are best as aperitif drinks.  Favorite dishes with Port include créme brulée and chocolate truffles and simple hors d'oeuvres or fresh fruit.

Vintage and those Ports with vintage character, are best on their own, or maybe with a piece of cheese and some lightly salted walnuts or Spanish Marcona almonds.  An English tradition is to marry Stilton cheese and Port.  Some misguided folks have been known to hollow out a large wheel of Stilton and fill the cavity with Port.  

A more sensible person would pour a few ounces of Port into a tulip-shaped glass and enjoy it with a bit of Stilton or any veined cheese.

Happy New Year everyone.

Next post: Los Carneros

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