Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois

  

There is Bordeaux red wine and then there is Bordeaux red wine.  By that, I mean classified growth wines from the Medoc and Cru Bourgeois Medoc wines. 

What is the difference?  Well, besides price, which for the classified growths is scary, the princely classified wines are ensconced in the preferred terroir of St.  Estephe, Margaux, Pauillac and St. Julien. While moderately-priced Cru Bourgeois red wines come from the lesser terroirs of Medoc, Haut-Medoc, Listrac-Medoc and Moulis-en-Medoc.

That classification is not my opinion. It is the rankings set down by official Bordeaux agencies in 1855 of Medoc classified growths, and in 1932 of Cru Bourgeois. In the 170 years since 1855, there has only been one official change to the classification, while the official ranking of the Cru Bourgeois wines has been updated numerous times. 

I was reminded of the chasm of difference between the two levels of Bordeaux red wines  recently when I read about the 2025 classification of  Cru Bourgeois Medoc wines. Before 2025, the previous ranking was in 2020, a decree that the new revised classification will be released every five years.  

Today, 246 Cru Bourgeois properties are ranked below the classified growths.  When the classification was first drawn up in 1932, there were 444 estates.  Over the years, for numerous reasons, including the economy and going out of business, the number was reduced almost by half. 

As of 2025, Cru Bourgeois wines are now ranked by a blind tasting panel in three tiers: Crus Bourgeois, Cru Bourgeois  Superieur, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel.  Additionally, the estates must practice sustainable viticulture, with the highest levels for Superieur  and Exceptionnel.  

Cru Bourgeois red wines are mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, with the addition of Merlot and/or Cabernet Franc.  Aging in oak, plus more updated vineyard practices and wine making, are  practiced mostly by estates in the upper two levels, that are more able to afford higher overhead.

With so many estates spread over a large area, plus subtle differences in terroir, the flavors of Cru Bourgeois wines can be difficult to describe.  But, expect most of the wines  to have a flavor profile favoring the black currant side of Cabernet Sauvignon. Also, there could be a textural plumpness, depending on how much Merlot is in the blend.  And tannin is there for structure but is not raw and astringent.

Since 1932, Cru Bourgeois members have moved up or down in the rankings and even dropped out.  And there are a few estates that have decided to not join the official classification.  

As of 2010 classification, six of the original Exceptionnel chateaux - de Pez, les Ormes de Pez, Poujeaux, Chassse-Spleen, Siran and Potensac - have decided to form Les Exceptionnels group to market their wines separate from the classification.

Here are the numbers for 2020 and 2025:

             2020                                                 2025

Cru Bourgeois, 179                                 Cru Bourgeois, 170

Cru Bourgeois Superieur, 56               Cru Bourgeois Superieur, 36

Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, 14         Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, 14 

Although there was no change at the top Exceptionnel level, the two lower levels saw reduced numbers, with the largest at the Superieur tier, resulting in a total of 220 members in 2025, down from 249 five years ago.

There is a wide range of prices for Cru Bourgeois, even within each of the three levels. For example,  Ch. Carbon La Pelouse, Haut-Medoc Exceptionnel is $27 and Ch. Belle Vue Haut-Medoc Exceptionnel, varies from $18 to $25.  Others include Ch. Saransot Dupree Listrac-Medoc Superieur, $44 and Ch. Lagrave, Cru Bourgeois, $30.  

Shop around, but if you like the Bordeaux taste, make your next wine purchase Cru Bourgeois.

Photo courtesy Jancis Robinson

 

Next post: Prosecco Rising

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Alsace in Anderson

                                                                          Wikipedia

Until recently, interest in wine was making slow but steady progress.  But then, anti-alcohol advocates spoiled the party with a scare campaign and wine sales slowed to a crawl.  Of course, it wasn't all because of anti-alcohol.  There were those saying the problem might also be changing lifestyles and the emergence of a new generation interested more in other beverages.

To be sure, finding innovative ways to attract more wine drinkers has become more challenging, but not impossible.  So, what to do?  How to overcome shifting interests by adjusting the focus to something different?

Showing the curious what you do best is a proven strategy, proposed by a small group of wineries in western Mendocino's Anderson Valley.  Husch Vineyards, Navarro Vineyards, Handley Cellars and Lazy Creek Vineyards banded together in 2006 to form a  festival promoting aromatic white wines, that say Anderson Valley. 

An idea was hatched to feature Alsace-style aromatic white wines the Anderson Valley is known for -- Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc -- at the Anderson Valley Alsace White Wine Festival, now known as the Anderson Valley International White Wine Festival.

Aromatic white grapes don't do well in warmer parts of California.  But in Anderson Valley,   the climate is just right, with warm days to ripen the grapes, and cool nights to develop clearly defined varietal character and crisp acidity.

The harmonization of these conditions come together along the valley's 16-mile long  narrow corridor that opens in the west to the cool Pacific Ocean.  Morning fog and cool daytime breezes, drawn in by inland warmth, balance the growing conditions for grapes to make aromatic white wines. 

                                                  

Riesling is the leading white grape in Germany's northern Rhine and Mosel valleys, and across the Rhine River in the Alsace region of France.  By one measure, Riesling is the world's greatest white grape, no contest.  Other folks claim the greatest is Chardonnay. But Riesling is more versatile, capable of making stunning dry, off-dry and sweet wines, something Chardonnay can't claim. 

Anderson Valley wineries have continuously shown an ability to make all of these styles.  Riesling can be dry or sweet and do it with charm. At its most characteristic, Riesling has ample peach and apricot flavors, with mineral and citrus peel notes.  And with maturity, Riesling displays characteristic petrol accents. 

 Anderson Valley Riesling: Greenwood Ridge Vineyards, Toulouse Vineyards, Navarro Vineyards. 

                                          

 Gewurztraminer is more aromatic than Riesling, with upfront exotic spice and lychee notes. Americans, though, are not that familiar with the scent of lychee outside of Asian food scenes.  More often, people say Gewurztraminer reminds them of the smell of roses.

Gewurztraminer started out as Traminer in Italy's northern Alto Adige region, moved north to Germany, then west to Alsace, across the Rhine in France.  Much later, the grape was brought to the U.S. west coast. 

Anderson Valley wineries show a stronger preference for Gewurztraminer than Riesling. Over the years, Navarro Vineyards, among others, has made award-winning dry and late-harvest Gewurztraminers.  

Anderson Valley Gewurztraminer: Handley Cellars, Husch Vineyards, Toulouse Vineyards, Fathers & Daughters Cellars, Navarro Vineyards, Philo Ridge Vineyards. 

                                                

Pinot Gris smells like honey, ripe pears and exotic spices.  Although not as well known as either Riesling or Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, in the same family as Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc, is made by a handful of Anderson Valley wineries. 

Anderson Valley Pinot Gris: Lichen Estate, Breggo Cellars, Toulouse Vineyards, Long Meadow Ranch, Handley Cellars, Navarro Vineyards.

                                                  

Pinot Blanc is often mistaken for Chardonnay.  And, with a little oak, it does smell and taste like Chardonnay, although Pinot Blanc is not as popular.  Sans oak, Pinot Blanc smells like apples, melons and sometimes with an earthy note.

Anderson Valley Pinot Blanc: Navarro Vineyards, Handley Cellars.  

The two-day Anderson Valley International White Wine Festival, February 15-16, will be held at the Mendocino County Fairgrounds in Boonville.  The Grand Tasting, at which more than 40 wineries will pour their white wines, will be on Saturday, with winery open houses, on Sunday. 

Next blog: Malbec

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Walla Walla

                                                                                                                 Richard Duval image

 Walla Walla.  To the indigenous Salantins, the name means "place of many waters."  But, to wine people everywhere, Walla Walla means some of Washington state's best wine. 

Located in southeastern Washington, on the border with Oregon, Walla Walla shares top-wine honors with Woodinville, in the western part of the state, near Seattle. The two regions are separated by miles of high desert, farmland and the Cascade mountain range.  Eastern Washington is also known for wheat farming and the famous Walla Walla sweet onions.

Walla Walla's 120-plus wineries are mostly scattered around the city of Walla Walla and in a corner of Oregon.  The Walla Walla AVA (1984) is a two-state appellation; Walla Walla in Washington, Milton-Freewater in Oregon.  Walla Walla AVA itself is within the much larger Columbia Valley AVA. 

Milton-Freewater was granted its own AVA in 2015 and has since gained wide attention for a particular geologic formation.  The Rocks District, a sub-appellation of Milton-Freewater, is in an ancient dry riverbed covered with large smooth stones, similar to the vineyards of Chateauneuf-du-Pape in France.  The Rocks has built a solid reputation for distinctive Syrah.

Walla Walla is red wine country.  More than 80% of varieties planted in the AVA are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.  Most of the remaining 20% is Cabernet Franc and small plantings of other red grapes.  White grapes, led by Chardonnay, account for just a small percentage of the total plantings.

                                 

Like most vineyards in eastern Washington, irrigation is necessary in Walla Walla AVA  vineyards. The eastern part of the appellation, though, tends to be at higher elevations, with  cooler daytime temperatures, permitting dry farming, a rarity for vineyards in Washington.

The other major concentration of Washington wineries is centered around the city of Woodinville, northeast of Seattle.  Woodinville hosts 130 wineries that draw grapes from throughout the vast Columbia Valley.  Being near Seattle makes it easy to visit Woodinville wineries, although the distance from a big city hasn't stopped wine lovers from making the trek to Walla Walla.

Walla Walla History 

Some settlers moving west along the Oregon Trail in the 19th century decided to stay in eastern Washington, finding the land around Walla Walla good for farming.  In the 1850s, grape vines were added to the crops, for eating out of hand and making wine.  Vineyards expanded and by the 1880s, growers were hoping to ship grapes and wine to Seattle by train.  But the transcontinental railroad had bypassed Walla Walla, dealing an economic blow to the nascent wine industry.  Prohibition dealt another setback, and it was nearly 40 years before the wine industry began to recover. 

Today, fans of the diverse range of Walla Walla wines, owe a debt of gratitude to Gary Figgins of Leonetti Cellar, who is credited with being the first to plant vinifera vines in the area, in the early 1970s.  Leonetti went on to win acclaim for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Throughout the 1970s and 1980s, Walla Walla wine got a further boost from L'Ecole 41, Woodward Canyon, Waterbrook Winery and Seven Hills Winery in Oregon, all of them iconic Walla Walla AVA wineries.

By 2008, a long list of new wineries came on line, sparking interest in different wines, such as those made from Rhone varieties, the odd Italian grape like Sangiovese, and Tempranillo, Spain's most distinguished red variety.  

The Rhone Rangers, started in California, raised interest among Walla Walla winemakers, in Rhone-style wines, especially for Syrah.  Prospective Rangers in the Walla Walla AVA, like Rotie, a small producer that took its name from Cote Rotie, a Northern Rhone Valley wine, embraced the Rhone wine concept.  

Walla Walla Wines

Walla Walla is best known for Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux-style blends, incorporating Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Besides Syrah, a handful of wineries are working with other Rhone grapes, like Viognier and Roussanne. 

The following dozen Walla Walla-area wineries are listed by location:   

East of the city: Figgins, Walla Walla Vintners, Leonetti Cellars. 

West of the city: L'Ecole No. 41, Long Shadows Vintners, Woodward Canyon. 

South of the city: Pepper Bridge Winery, Doubleback, Patterson Cellars.  

Milton-Freewater: Atelier Freewater, Rotie Cellars, Watermill Winery.

On your next trip to the wine store, look for the Washington wine section and Walla Walla. It's worth the search.  

 

Next post: Prosecco Rising

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Vin Jaune

 

 

Vin Jaune in a clavelin with Comte cheese

 

Imagine how boring life would be if the only wine you had to drink was Chardonnay, or Cabernet Sauvignon.  Some people are good with that and others, like me, want something different.

Such as, Vin Jaune, or "yellow wine," an unusual French wine that is more Spanish, in character, than French.  Vin Jaune is made like Sherry, looks like Sherry and tastes like a dry fino.  

Another unusual thing about Vin Jaune is it comes in a traditional embossed bottle , called a clavelin, that until recently has been illegal for sale in the United States.  The reasoning is a confusing web of U.S. bureaucratic rules.  

Since 1941, the sale of Vin Juane in a clavelin has been illegal, because the 21 oz (620ml) bottle was not approved by the federal government.  Yet, it has been seen on store shelves in many places throughout the country.  

The irony is that in 1974, the federal agency controlling alcohol allowed  750ml and 375ml bottles, but not 620ml (21 oz), which continued to rule out the 21-ounce clavelin. Then, earlier this year, TTB approved the 21 oz bottle, so the sale of Vin Jaune in clavelin is now legal, which really doesn't change anything.

 The Tale of Yellow Wine

France is among the most standardized country in the world with its specific wine appellation  (AOC) system.  So, how then does a wine anomaly like Vin Jaune continue to exist in such a hide-bound environment?

Vin Jaune is made in small quantities in the foothills of the Jura mountains of eastern France, near the border with Switzerland.  Once an important wine region, with extensive vineyards, today planted acreage in Jura is a fraction of what it once was. 

Production of Vin Jaune is controlled within four appellations:  Chateau-Chalon AOC, Arbois AOC, Cotes de Jura AOC and Vin Jaune l'Etoile AOC. 

During the Middle Ages, more than 40 different varieties were used for Jura wines.  That number has dropped to five, with Savagnin (blanc) the most important.  Savagnin is a very old aromatic grape related to the Traminer, but not as aromatic as Gewurztraminer.  Although distinct from Sauvignon Blanc, DNA profiling has shown that Savagnin is the parent of numerous grapes, such as Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc.   

Savagnin undergoes a slow fermentation and then the wine is racked into small 60 gallon barrels and the magic begins.  Required aging for Vin Jaune is six years, from harvest to bottling.  During that period, winemakers closely monitor the wine, but it is not topped up. At the end of six years, about 60% of the wine remains.

The long oxidation causes a space to open above the wine, forming a thin layer of yeast, which takes up to three years to develop.  The yeast film is poetically called vin di voile or the veil.  Development of the veil is similar to the growth of flor on fino Sherry, although flor is thicker than the veil and resembles a layer of dirty cottage cheese.  

The importance of checking the wine's long maturation progress in wood is to make sure that volatile acidity (VA) doesn't develop.   If you've ever smelled vinegar in a wine, chances are that off odor is volatile acidity.  VA is the volatile acids in wine, such as acetic acid, that cause the tell tale vinegar smell.

Following barrel aging, Vin Jaune goes directly to bottling, without the fortification that is common in Sherry.  The Vin Jaune clavelin, supposedly is named for  the amount of wine remaining after six years of aging. 

Toasted nuts, especially walnuts, is the primary sensory note shared by both Vin Jaune and fino Sherry. But Vin Jaune develops a complexity from years in oak, with flavors of ripe apples, warm spices like cinnamon, dried fruits and sometimes an underlying cheesy note. 

Prices for Vin Jaune in clavelin range from $40 to hundreds of dollars.  A search may be required for these producers: Domaine Dugois, Tissot, Domaine Rolet, Jacques Puffeney, Ganenat, Domaine de Montbourgeau, Robert Gilliard, Maison Pierre Overnoy.

A final note: Every year, during the last week of January or first week of February, Vin Jaune producers gather, in a different location, for La Percée du Vin Juane, a festival to celebrate the release of the new vintage of Vin Jaune and local foods such as Comté cheese. 

Photo: Wikipedia

 

Next post: Walla Walla

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The Value of Aging Wine

                                     

With the holidays now a fading memory, my thoughts turn back to the aged wines enjoyed at the Boyd family table, or wines friends and family told me about.  Long ago, I became a believer in bottle aging red wine, so the positive reports I got of the wines below were not  surprising. 

I've never been satisfied with just the end result.  I want to know why.   Why do some wines age gracefully and others seem to stumble the older they get?   And why do certain wines reach their peak, while others have yet to arrive at that ultimate point of drinking pleasure?

The transformation of a red wine aging from raw youth to polished maturity is surely grounded in science, but for some wines, the change seems more like alchemy.

Although I've enjoyed my share of mature red wines that still had a way to go; I never fully understood why bottle aging resulted in a more complex wine.  So, I thought a non-scientific examination of the wine aging phenomenon would help me (and you, the reader) better understand what's going on.  The following exercise, I hope, will illustrate the benefits of aging.

How wine ages

Because of the intrinsic nature of red wine, they are the wines most capable of beneficial aging.  While it is not completely understood why wine benefits from aging, it is known that red wine has higher levels of grape phenolic compounds, in concert with other chemical elements, that are responsible for a red wine's color, texture and tannin, the necessary components of aging.

White wines, on the other hand, are lower in phenolics.  And whites become browner because of slow oxidation of their phenolic content.  However, white wines that are affected by botrytis (Riesling) and those with higher acidity, are more likely to benefit from bottle aging.  Barrel aging of white wines, like Chardonnay, also has some influence on aging.

Wines that benefited from aging

In the early years of my wine collecting, I kept a cellar log, recording the history of the wine, from when I got the wine, the date I drank it, and my tasting notes.  Eventually, I lost interest in the log and just enjoyed the wines.  

Here are seven wines that gave me an extra measure of pleasure and that I'm glad I let age before pulling the corks: 

Franco & Fiorina 1950 Barbaresco...Heitz Cellar 1999 Napa Valley Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon...Fetzer Vineyards 1999 Bien Nacido Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir...Silver Oak 1995 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon...Penfolds 1998 South Australia Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon (magnum)...Williams Selyem 2012 Russian River Valley Foss Vineyard Pinot Noir...I.V.M. 1954 Boal Madeira.

And, to further explore the idea of bottle aging, I've asked two of my sons and a few friends  to comment on aged wines they have had recently.  Plus, there's a personal note on a Cabernet Sauvignon enjoyed at the Boyd family 2024 Christmas dinner. 

Bill Traverso, an old friend and fellow wine judge, California: "Years ago, I bought a bottle of 1945 Chateau Lafite, to be opened for one of my birthdays or the year 2000.  I ended up having it for my sixtieth birthday (Bill didn't  say when that was) at a small Italian restaurant in Santa Rosa. The wine still had structure and identifiable fruit aromas plus the bouquet of an aged Cabernet blend.  In my opinion there was still enough tannin and fruit for the wine to carry on for at least 10 more years."

Sean Boyd, co-owner/winemaker, Sightglass Cellars, Washington state:  "On New Year’s Eve, Kristin and I had dinner at our friends Shaun and Kelly's house.  I brought a 1990 Arrowood (Sonoma) Cabernet Sauvignon.  It was a gamble, because of the age, but totally worth it. The color was still amazing and dark/ruby.  It smelled like Cabernet, but the best part was how much fruit was left and how smooth it was.  It turned out the hit of the night."

Mark Boyd, consumer and wine collector, Washington state:  "In April 2024, I had a 2010 Woodinville Wine Cellars Cabernet Franc, with Sean, paired with BBQ rib eyes.  I remember the wine holding up very well and the cork was in great condition.  I think it was better than I remember other Cab Francs I've had. The wine was definitely mature and ready to drink and it stood up nicely with the dry rubbed ribs."

Rich Marschner, a close friend and fellow wine traveler, Arizona, submitted this entertaining report on a 1991 Vine Cliff Cellars Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, "Oh, that cork.  But if I didn't have my Ah-So,  I'd have been Dead-Meat.  It was broken, the top section dry as dust and the bottom soaked.

"First impressions:  'This is an Amarone.'  But of course it isn't.  Cigar leaf, plus a big sniff of raisin.  Medium dark color, with a little brown edge, but not prominent.  Good acid, medium sort-of-generic-tasting fruit.  Baby-soft tannins.  Some sediment.  Doubt I would recognize this as a cab, had I not known. "We're having it with Wiley's (his wife) all-day effort at beef short-ribs. 

 "Well, we've sucked it all down and it held up remarkably well, not showing fading fruit at all.  Nice match to the big, wonderfully dark and complex short-ribs, due to the 

acid (if somewhat short on fruit).  We thought it was quite good, and a very interesting wine."

 

                                             

 

Denis Broderick, an old friend who introduced me to "Irish Wine" (Bushmills Whiskey), Northern Ireland:  "I must admit, up front, that I belong to the school that appreciates wines that have a bit of maturity, with age being relative, and appropriate for the specific wine.  

"With that in mind, it normally helps if you have several bottles of the same wine/vintage, thus able to appreciate how the wine is evolving and the resulting changes to balance, complexity and personality, and hopefully, all positive.

"For example, I bought, en primeur, clarets (Bordeaux) of 2000, 2005 and 2009 vintages; plus, on release, Graham’s Vintage Port 2003, to open at family weddings and births. Once cracked open, we relive the events responsible for the purchase.  Last year, for example, we used the port to help with grandson Aodhan’s 21^st birthday, and to ponder where the years had flown!

"Further to the value of aging, the one wine that stood out was The Armagh 2001, from Jim Barry in Australia's Clare Valley. The label mentioned 'Special Late Harvest Shiraz' that punches in at 15%.  And there's the Irish link with Armagh, Clare and Jim Barry. 

"So, I bought two bottles of the wine after Armagh won the All-Ireland Gaelic football final, for the first time, in 2002, between Armagh and Kerry.  The first bottle was corked, so the expectation was not great when opening the second.  However, I was not disappointed, but relieved; it was drinking perfectly.  Bright, hint of brown and very deep color. Definitely Shiraz on the nose and palate (with tobacco hints), but so rich and heavy and with some silkiness.  Great structure and length.  A perfect match with the Roast Rib of Beef.

"Whilst we enjoyed the wine, I relived watching the match live – on a bike fitness machine in the local leisure centre!  The match went back and forth, but  in the end, Kerry went on to win their first All-Ireland.  But Armagh came back, winning the All-Ireland in 2024, this time against Galway. A well-deserved win, albeit 22 years after the first.  Again, like wine, well worth the waiting! 

"Come to think of it: wine must be the only reason in life for wanting to get old, quickly."

The Boyd Christmas dinner wine was an impressive Ridge 1989 Santa Cruz Mountains Monte Bello, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon , Merlot and Petite (sic) Verdot.  Elegant and refined, beautifully balanced, with staying power; could easily have been mistaken for a classified growth Bordeaux. 

Impressions gained from drinking aged wine, can only be attained through patience. That's where wine's true value is.

 

Next post: Vin Jaune

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Chablis

Chablis vineyards in Autumn/Adobe image

To oak or not to oak?  That's the question that has been troubling Chablis producers since the end of the 19th century.  

While most fine white Burgundies, made from Chardonnay, are fermented and aged in oak, the question of oak contact in Chablis, also made from Chardonnay, is up to the individual winery.  Many things are certain in Chablis, but not the use of oak. 

The use of oak is not the only difference between the two wines.  Chablis and the Cote de Beaune, a part of southern Cote d'Or, are separated by geography.  Chablis is the most northern part of Burgundy, more than 60 miles to the northeast of Cote d'Or, closer to Champagne than Burgundy.  This odd arrangement goes back to the 15th century when Chablis became part of the Duchy of Burgundy.

Thus, geography places Chablis far from the equator, subject to the variable and uncertain effects of a northern continental climate, and the threat of Spring frosts.  Weather variables have a major impact on grape quality and harvest quantity. 

The Chablis Commission says that vineyard production has reached maximum and that growers are dealing with challenging problems like bad weather in 2024 that resulted in very low wine production.

Wine making under these conditions, in both Chablis and Cote d'Or, is reflected in the character of the wines. Unoaked Chardonnay from Chablis is crisp and mineral, while the Cote de Beaune Chardonnay is fuller, with spice from time spent in oak.  

Oaked Chablis becomes a different wine, while still reflecting its terroir.  And in Chablis, as it is everywhere in France, vineyard terroir is everything.

Chablis winemakers wanting to retain a mineral characteristic, known locally as gout to pierre à fusil (the taste of gunflint), prefer stainless steel fermentation. Other winemakers,  favoring the use of oak, like the extra dimension, provided by oak, in the wine's taste and structure.

Quality levels for Chablis are based on vineyards.  Within each of the four levels, there are specific vineyards, often mentioned on the label.  At the top are Grand Cru Chablis are seven named vineyards, including Les Clos and Valdesir.  Next are Premier Cru Chablis from 79 named vineyards.

                                                                              

 The two lowest levels, Chablis and Petit Chablis, vie for authenticity and quality.  Those wines labeled Chablis are from anywhere in the appellation, whereas Petit Chablis are made from lesser vineyards or plots. 

Officially, Petit Chablis wines are rated lower in quality, but lately some producers have been more selective about vineyards and wine making, thus the positioning may be shifting. 

Petit Chablis is selling well in the United States, helping to make the U.S. the top market for all Chablis.  The market is seeing rising prices for all Burgundy, causing astute shoppers to see Petit Chablis as Burgundian Chardonnay at a more reasonable price.  

Prices for Burgundy, including Chablis, are all over the board: Puligny-Montrachet, $120 to $300+;  Chablis Grand Cru, $120 to $200+; Chablis Premier Cru, $35 to $50; Petit Chablis, $25; Chablis, $15 to $30. 

There will always be a demand for great Chardonnay, whether it be from the Cote de Beaune, Chablis, California or Australia.  With steadily rising prices, now may be a good time to look at Chablis.

 

Next post: The Value of Aging Wine

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Lombardy

                          

At an unknown time in the distant past, an odd geologic upheaval formed what is today the country of Italy, shaped like a long high heel boot. Economics and politics exerted a different force, in present day Italy, shaping the country into an industrial north and an agricultural south.

Milan, the great industrial city of northern Italy, developed as the economic force of Lombardy, the most populous region in the country.  And, Milan became the center of a burgeoning wine culture in Lombardy and neighboring Piedmont. 

In Lombardy, the cool growing climate is ideally suited for the production of much of Italy's best sparkling wine in the region of Franciacorta.  Historically, while Franciacorta developed as Italy's leading producer of high-end spumante, the region did not come on the scene until the 1960s. 

Franciacorta spumante (the Italian word for sparkling wine) is  made in the hills near Brescia.  The spumante is made by the traditional Champagne method from Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir), Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco (Pinot Blanc).  Most of the top houses, like Ca' del Bosco, favor a higher percentage of Chardonnay in their blends. 

There's a lot of speculation about when the French varieties arrived in Franciacorta, but the money seems to be during the replanting of the vineyards after the devastation of phylloxera had passed.  In an homage to Champagne, Franciacorta spumante sports French label language  and uses the same residual sweetness levels as Champagne.

While Champagne deserves its reputation for elegant, refined sparkling wine, Franciacorta produces an equally good bubbly.  Unfortunately, the Italian wine does not enjoy the same prestige as the French wine.

Oltrepo Pavese, Lombardy's oldest sparkling wine region, in the Pavia zone, supplies Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes for the production of spumante in neighboring Piedmont.  The spumante from Pavia is made according to the traditional Champagne method.  Other authorized varieties include Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio (Pinot Gris), two grapes that give the sparklers a decided Italian character.   

The requirement for spumante is a minimum of 70% Pinot Noir, and the wines must be aged on the lees for at least 15 months, or 24 months for vintage wines.  Oltrepo Pavese was granted DOCG status in 2007.

In the 1960s, English wine writer, Cyril Ray, did not mention Oltrepo Pavese in his book, "The Wines of Italy."  Twenty years later, American writer, Burton Anderson, in his seminal book "Vino" declared the wines of Oltrepo Pavese, "conspicuously underrated."  

Things have improved for Oltrepo since Anderson wrote that  in the early 1980s.  Today, the area is best-known for still red wine, made from Pinot Noir.

 The rest of Lombardy is divided into several DOCs, and with one exception, they are lesser known than the heavy hitters on the Italian wine list, like Barolo and Chianti. 

While Lombardy's two sparkling wines follow the French methodology, Lambrusco became an international best seller as a distinctly Italian wine, taking the American market by storm in the 1980s.  The popular Lambrusco is a version from four production zones in Emilia-Romagna, south of Lombardy, across the Po river.  Lombardy's claim to Lambrusco is Lambrusco Mantovano, a lightly sparkling ((frizzante) red wine, made from the Lambrusco grape. 

Exclusivity on Lake Garda

Lake Garda is one of the loveliest spots in Italy; if you can afford it.  Lugana, a dry white wine produced in a small area south of the lake helps ease the sticker shock of living large on Garda and nearby Lake Como.  Lugana, made from Trebbiano di Lugana, has a trace of mineral, likely from the limestone and clay in the zone's best vineyards. 

Not far from the border with Switzerland, in an alpine valley, is Valtellina, a DOC red wine, made from Nebbiolo (known locally as Chiavennasca), the same high-value grape in Barolo and Barbaresco, from neighboring Piedmont.  The mountainous terrain and terraced vineyards of Valtellina give the Nebbiolo wines a certain "nervousness," the local way of describing the wine's brisk acidity.

Additionally, there are four single high-altitude vineyards in Valtellina, each with a different take on Nebbiolo: Grumello, Inferno, Sassella and Valgella. These four red wines are labeled Valtellina Superiore and are mostly available in major U. S. markets.

Piemontese wines may get a lot of attention for its stellar red wines, but neighboring Lombardy wines have plenty of sparkle. 

(Italy "boot" - Getty image)

Next blog: Chablis: the alternate white Burgundy

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Carneros

In 1981, a young German couple arrived in an alien wine culture.  Markus Moller-Racke's father, director of the German wine and spirits firm, A. Racke, sent Markus to head up Racke's recent acquisition, historic Buena Vista Winery, in the Carneros wine region of Northern California.  Markus and his wife,  Anne Moller-Racke, a talented viticulturist, were anxious about their new adventure. 

Markus Moller-Racke

In Germany, the Moller-Rackes were used to steeply terraced vineyards, subject to a northern climate best suited to white varieties like Riesling and Muller-Thurgau.  They would encounter something different in Carneros; vineyards running along gently rolling hills, adjacent to a large body of water that tempered the climate for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. 

The Moller-Rackes met the challenge head on, injecting new energy into Buena Vista's vineyards and wines. By 2000, though, things had changed in Germany and the elder Moller-Rache decided his son should come home to run the family business.  The Moller-Rackes went their separate ways: Markus back to Germany, while Anne stayed in Carneros, running the very successful Donum Estate.

In the twenty years that the Moller-Rackes were in Carneros, the wine community came together to form the Carneros Wine Alliance, attract new wineries and grape growers and establish Carneros as one of California's premier wine regions. 

Carneros By the Numbers

Los Carneros means "the rams" in Spanish, an appropriate name since the land was once part of a Spanish land Grant, used as grazing pasture for large flocks of sheep.  In the late 1800s, Agoston Haraszthy, the Hungarian entrepreneur who brought premium grape varieties to California, planted the first vineyard in Carneros, overlooking San Pablo Bay.  The area's first winery opened in 1880 at the Stanly Ranch.  Today, the historic property is owned by Auberge Resorts.

San Pablo Bay, at the northern end of the San Francisco Bay, provides morning fog and cool breezes for the Carneros vineyards along the southern parts of Napa and Sonoma counties.  Los Carneros, granted an AVA in 1983 (amended in 2006), is one of many California AVAs located in more than one county. 

The bulk of the rural Carneros appellation is in Sonoma County, from the historic town of Sonoma in the north to a southern point near the famous Sears-Point Raceway.  There is a sameness to the land, from one county to the other. 

In wine terms, Carneros is defined by climate and not political lines.  At one time, the climate across Carneros was cooler than it is today.  Still, because it is close to the northern reaches of San Francisco Bay, Carneros can be cool, foggy and wet, the right growing environment for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. 

Once, California Pinot Noirs were few and far between.  Except for the occasional Pinots from Joseph Swan and Hanzell, the PN Revolution didn't get started until Russian River devotees came along in the late 1980s.  

Since then, interest has grown. Today, noteworthy Pinot Noir is being made in Carneros, and the Russian River Valley, Santa Barbara, Anderson Valley and Santa Lucia Highlands. Except for Anderson Valley, Pinots from the other areas tend to be more concentrated, with deeper black cherry flavors.  

In the early 1980s, new wineries making Burgundian-style wines came on line in Carneros,  including Saintsbury, Bouchaine, Acacia, Gloria Ferrer and Richardson.  Syrah and Merlot were added to the grape inventory, along with a growing list of other varieties, but it was Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that showed promise for still and sparkling wine.

During the same decade, the Carneros wine map added another new dimension, with the arrival of a handful of sparkling wine producers.   On the Napa side, Domaine Carneros, owned by Champagne Taittinger, opened its doors in 1987.  In Sonoma, Spain's Freixenet, a CAVA maker in Catalonia, began making sparkling wine under the Gloria Ferrer label.  Codorniu, another major CAVA maker, had Codorniu Napa, but converted to still wines, rebranding as Artesa.  

Today, there are more than 35 Carneros wineries making still and sparkling wines. On the Napa side, Carneros Creek lays claim to the oldest Carneros winery, operating since 1972. Mont St. John, a reliable maker of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, opened its doors in 1979. 

Although the effects of climate change will continue to alter the growing environment, for now Carneros Pinot Noir remains a lighter wine with more delicate berry flavors, supported by brisk acidity.  Carneros Chardonnay tastes of sweet-tart apples, spice and the zesty acidity characteristic of Carneros.

Sheep that once grazed on the rolling hills of Carneros are gone, replaced by a growing number of vineyards, supplying grapes for the distinctive wines of Los Carneros. 

Next post:  Italy's Northern Lombardy

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Pleasureable Port

Port is a fortified wine born of a trade war in the 17th century between English and French tradesmen.  Now, hundreds of years have passed, and Port, like most sweet wine, still appeals only to a relatively small group of wine collectors. 

Why the attraction mainly for collectors?  Because wine drinkers serious enough to build a collection understand that nearly all Port is to be aged before consumption.  Port is not at its best, except for most Ruby, within months of bottling.  Indeed, Vintage Port from a declared year, is not ready to drink until it has been in bottle for 20-30 years, or longer if the year was exceptional. 

The production of Port begins in the terraced vineyards of the upper Douro Valley.  Scattered among the rolling vineyards are estates that ship the new fortified wine down river to aging lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia across the river from Porto.  

The Eiffel-designed bridge over the Douro river

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are three terms to know that make understanding Port easier.  Port is a fortified wine that takes its name from the city of Porto, in northern Portugal.  Oporto is English for Porto.  Vinho do Porto is the official name for the Portuguese wine.  

Officially, Port can be made from a mind-boggling collection of 80 different grapes.  In practice, just five varieties are used today by most Port firms, including Touriga Nacional and Tina Roriz (Spain's Tempranillo).

A rapid fermentation is needed to extract maximum color and tannin from the deeply tinted grapes.  After two to three days, a fortifying spirit, of at least 70%, with approval of the Institudo dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto (IVDP), is added to stop the fermentation.  Specific styles of Port are then matured in oak barrels for varying times. 

Port styles range from young, ready-to-drink, to more complex requiring aging.  In general, there are two broad categories. Wood Ports (Ruby and Tawny) are aged mainly in oak barrels, then following filtration, are ready to drink.  Bottle aged Ports mature in wood for a short time, then are bottled and are not ready to drink for many years.  These are the specific styles. 

Ruby is the least expensive and simplest Port, aged in bulk for 2-3 years, then bottled while still ruby in color.  Many producers use proprietary names for their Ruby Port.  Rubies are grapy, with a rich texture and a hint of spice.  A Ruby with more character and depth may be called Reserva. Priced $20 and under.

Tawny  is, in theory, a Ruby that has lost its color and is now amber brown.  In practice, most Tawny sold today is made from lighter wines and sells for little more than a Ruby. Tawny tastes nutty and lightly caramel.  Aged Tawny is a "true" Tawny Port, aged for at least six years in wood and carries an indication of age on the label: 10, 20, up to 50 years.  Aged Tawny is a favorite of Port shippers.  Price: $25-$30.

Vintage is the most expensive and coveted style of Port.  Vintage Port is made only from select ripe grapes grown in the Cima Corgo, northern Douro.  When the majority of shippers agree on the quality of a vintage, and the IVDP approves, the year is "declared."  Generally, only three years in 10 are declared a vintage.  So far this century, these are declared vintages: 2000, 2003, 2007, 2011, 2016, 2017.  The 2017 Quinta do Vesuvio, is $85 and Graham's 1977 is $150.  Quantity made of a Vintage Port and demand set a premium price for a Vintage Port.   

Late Bottled Vintage is a Port  bottled between the fourth and sixth years after harvest.  Better LBVs are unfined and unfiltered, thus require decanting, like a Vintage. The most common LBVs are fined and sometimes filtered and are ready to drink sooner than a Vintage Port.  Many LBVs are $50 or less.

There are two more styles most often seen in wine shops specializing in fortified wines. Garrafeira means "reserve" and comes from a single year and must be aged a minimum of seven years in glass demijohns.  Colheita is a Tawny Port from a single year with the date of harvest on the label.  By law, a Colheita must be aged in wood for at least seven years.

Praise for Port

For a drink as revered and enjoyed by so many people, there is a surprising  dearth of quotable praise for Port.  But, I did find these tributes.  

H. Warner Allen, early 20th century English journalist mused: "Port is essentially the wine of philosophical contemplation." 

A more commonplace view of Port is this often heard paean, "Any port in the storm."  The idiom is not attributed to any one person, but is thought to describe a nautical term for sailors needing shelter, going back to at least 1749.  Nevertheless, the idiom is applied often to the wine.

If the enjoyment of sipping a well-aged Port gets a little out of hand, try this "hair of the dog that bit you" remedy: melt butter over hot water, stir in a dessertspoon of Worcestershire sauce, the same quantity of orange juice, a pinch of cayenne, and about half a wineglass of old port.  Take some freshly browned toast and soak in the mixture before eating.  The concoction is known as the "Coalman," presumably referring to the man who worked in a coal mine, or maybe the guy who once delivered coal to your house.

Port and Food

Finally, a few words about Port with food.  Ruby and Tawny with no age are best as aperitif drinks.  Favorite dishes with Port include créme brulée and chocolate truffles and simple hors d'oeuvres or fresh fruit.

Vintage and those Ports with vintage character, are best on their own, or maybe with a piece of cheese and some lightly salted walnuts or Spanish Marcona almonds.  An English tradition is to marry Stilton cheese and Port.  Some misguided folks have been known to hollow out a large wheel of Stilton and fill the cavity with Port.  

A more sensible person would pour a few ounces of Port into a tulip-shaped glass and enjoy it with a bit of Stilton or any veined cheese.

Happy New Year everyone.

Next post: Los Carneros

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Oregon's Willamette Valley

South of Portland, Oregon, running for 150 miles alongside the Willamette River, is the  famous Willamette Valley and its world famous wine.  For years, fruit wines brought attention to the Willamette, but by the mid-20th century, a new breed of winemaker began  making America's world class Pinot Noir. 

The name Willamette comes from the French pronunciation of a Native American village, although some say it's an indigenous word meaning either "still water," or "west bank."

Columbia River route along the Oregon Trail

Willamette's fertile valley nestles between mountains on three sides.  The welcoming environment in the west attracted pioneers in 19th century Missouri  to endure the hardships of the Oregon Trail.  Over the decades the pioneers settled in what today are Oregon's five largest cities in the valley.  Portland and Eugene are at the two ends of the valley, with Salem forming the dividing point between north and south Willamette.  More than 70 percent of Oregon's population live in the five major cities.

Willamette Valley is home to a wide array of  crops and animals, including hops, mint, hazelnuts, cattle, Christmas trees, poultry and, of course, wine grapes.  Most of the vineyards are west of the Willamette River.  Today, there are 700 wineries, most of them in Yamhill County.

Pinot Noir tops the Willamette's wine list, with Pinot Gris, a pinot family member, growing in popularity, although it has a way to go before taking over from Chardonnay as the valley's top white wine.  Presently, there are 193 Chardonnays made in the Willamette compared to 69 for Pinot Gris.  The demand is so strong for Chardonnay, that Pinot Gris will be waiting in the wings for quite a while.

Other Willamette Valley wines of interest, include Syrah, Gamay Noir, Pinot Blanc, Riesling and Tempranillo, plus about 30 others.  Still, Willamette's moderate climate is a limiting factor for some grapes, like Cabernet Sauvignon, so the emphasis is focused on what works best, like Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay.  Willamette Syrah embraces the cool climate style, with leaner bright fruit, and a little black pepper.

Papa Pinot

Wine making in Oregon can be traced back to the 19th century. By the time Prohibition was finally over, a thriving fruit wine industry had set the pace for new  growth in Oregon wine, populated in large part by Californians migrating north to find a more hospitable climate for vinifera grape wines like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

In 1961, Richard Sommer was one of the first Californians to come north, at least as far as the Umpqua Valley, in southern Oregon, where he established Hillcrest Vineyard.  Against advice that wine grapes couldn't be grown in cool, wet Oregon, Sommer planted Pinot Noir. It was a valiant effort, since the southern Umpqua was better suited to Cabernet Sauvignon. 

David Lett followed Sommer to Oregon, continuing on to the Willamette Valley, a spot he knew was more suitable for Pinot Noir and later, Chardonnay.  In 1965,  Lett planted the first vinifera vines in the Dundee Hills.  David Lett was a pinot pioneer in the Willamette and for that, he became known as "Papa Pinot." 

About the same time, Dick Erath and Sokol-Blosser set up shop.  It would be 18 years, though, from the time of  Lett's arrival in the valley, before the region was recognized with an AVA.  Eventually, 11 sub-AVAs were  added, including Enola-Amity Hills and Chehalem  Mountains in 2006, proposed by David Adelsheim, Dick Ponzi and Paul Hart of Rex Hill Vineyard.

Pinot Noir

Satisfied with the quality of Pinot Noir from test sites in the Dundee Hills, Burgundy's Robert Drouhin opened Domaine Drouhin in 1987, installing his daughter, Veronique as winemaker.  Some observers pointed to Drouhin's arrival in Oregon as proof that the Willamette Valley was the premiere spot in the United States for Pinot Noir.

 The "Left Coast" Comparison  

Wine people are protective of their own corner of the wine world.  Comparisons  of these various places are usually ignored, except, for some reason, for the inevitable match-ups  that linger of Oregon Pinot Noir to red Burgundy and Napa Cabernet Sauvignon to red Bordeaux. 

While writing this piece on the Willamette Valley, it occurred to me, how many things in common, besides a vibrant food scene and relaxed lifestyle, there are between Oregon's Willamette Valley and California's Napa Valley:  

* Signature grape and wine - Pinot Noir in the Willamette, Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa.

* Central wine town - McMinnville in Willamette, St. Helena in Napa.

 * Closeness to major metropolitan area - Portland, Oregon, San Francisco, Calif. 

  * College-level wine programs - Linfield University, McMinnville, Napa Valley College, Napa.

Wine is an integral part of the Willamette Valley and the hundreds of wineries are waiting to welcome visitors with a thirst for Oregon Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. 

Next post:  Pleasurable Port

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Gift Wine Books

                                                            

Recently, my Copy Editor and I had lunch with an old friend and his wife.  We meet now and then to swap past wine stories, talk about family and generally enjoy each others company.

At the end of our meal, Gerry surprised me with a generous gift of eight wine books.  Not just any wine books, but old ones that are probably long out of print.  The authors are mostly familiar to me: H. Warner Allen, Paul Lukacs, Maynard Amerine, Thomas Matthews, Don Kladstrup, Pierre Galet, while Barry Woelfel and Gordon M. Shepherd are not.

If my life had taken a different path, I might be growing wine grapes today instead of writing about them.  So, when I got back to my office and unpacked the book bag, Galet's "A Practical Ampelography," was the first book I leafed through.  The last grape in the index of grapes was Valdiguie, an almost forgotten variety I had mentioned in my November 15 post about Gamay.

I was being snarky in that post by suggesting a grower might have second thoughts about   planting Valdiguie, since "who's going to buy a wine labeled Valdiguie?"  I was second guessing growers and should have noticed there are dozens of varietal California Valdiguies and Valdiguie/Gamay blends on retail shelves.   

A reader of this blog and a friend also pointed out that he found J. Lohr 2022 Wildflower Arroyo Seco Monterey Valdiguie at his local wine store.  That friendly note jogged my untrustworthy  memory that J. Lohr has been making Valdiguie for years.

Anyway, with the holidays coming soon, there may be a book lover, especially with a fondness for wine books, on your list.  Although, as I noted, the eight books are probably out of print, but check your local used book store or run a neighborhood want ad to see if any of the books turn up. 

And to help in the search, here are a few lines about each of the eight gift books: 

The Pierre Galet book on ampelography, 1979, is an abbreviated edition, with new additions, of his massive four-volume book on wine grapes of France. The Galet is a standard reference of 150 American and European grape varieties, supplemented by hundreds of illustrations.   American viticultural consultant, Lucie Morton, provided the translation and the late Leon Adams, "Dean of American Wine Writers," wrote the Foreword.

Another seminal text on grape cultivation and wine making is "Wine," by retired UC-Davis professors Maynard Amerine and Vernon Singleton, second edition, 1977.  This update  expands on American wine while including chapters on European and Australian wine, plus sections on wine making and grape growing.  "Wine" should be in every wine lovers library.

"A History of Wine," H. Warner Allen, 1961, is an engrossing read, subtitled, "Great Vintage Wines from The Homeric Age to The Present Day."   Allen was a British author and journalist who died in 1968.  He wrote numerous books on many subjects and has an impressive way with words.  Part One of this history is titled "The First Golden Age of Vintage Wines."  Part Two captures "The Fall of the Roman Empire, through the "Dark Ages of Vintage Wine." And Part Three follows the transition to the Silver Age, which Allen sees as a decline in vintage wines.  Allen's travels through the history of vintage wine is food for thought.

"Inventing Wine," 2012, by the late Paul Lukcas, is a more modern look at the history of wine and what we think of it.  In nine chapters, the author takes the reader on a wine journey from the Middle Ages to the New Millennium.  Paul Lukacs was a college professor with a solid knowledge of wine and a talent for sharing that knowledge in words. 

"Wine & War" was published in 2001 and I read it shortly after.  This well-written history book with a wine connection, is by journalist Don Kladstrup and his wife Petie, a freelance writer.  Kladstrup is an award-winning television news correspondent.  The engrossing story the Kladstrups tell is about the French Resistance, many of whom were winemakers, and how they hid thousands of bottles of valuable wine from the Nazis in Paris.  It's a great read.

The three gifted wine books, now on my reading list, are "A Village in the Vineyards," Thomas Matthews, Photographs by Sara Matthews, 1993, is an account of a year spent by the couple in a small wine town in Bordeaux; "Neuroenology," Gordon M. Shepherd, 2017, a Yale professor of neuroscience, examines  how the brain creates the taste of wine; "Through a Glass, Darkly," 1984, edited by Barry Woelfel, is a fascinating anthology of 13 tales of wine and crime, by such authors as  Edgar Allen Poe, Arthur C. Clarke, Roald Dahl and O. Henry. 

There's something here in this short list of wine books for every wine drinker, find the right book and gift it to someone you know. 

Next post: Oregon's Willamette Valley

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Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

                                                                                                               Freepik image

When wine drinkers gather for a meal, the collaborative plan is to first select white wines that will go with the first course. Then, in natural progression, the call is to decide on the red wines that arrive later in the meal.  

Matching a white wine to a red wine has long been a common practice. Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc is a traditional example.  For me, though, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir is one of the most successful pairings.

Both grapes have been associated with the Burgundy region of eastern France since the Middle Ages, and they remained exclusively in France for centuries, before heading out to wine regions around the world.  The two varieties had a symbiotic, though unknown, relationship until the 20th century when DNA profiling disclosed the ancestry of Chardonnay to be none other than Pinot Noir.

Today, Chardonnay is a global brand.  Pinot Noir, however, stays more on a regional basis, owing to the grape's sensitivity to climate and vineyard propagation. Chardonnay's adaptability has allowed growers to plant it under a range of climate and soil conditions. Pinot Noir, on the other hand, stubbornly proved difficult to grow and sensitive to make.

There's more to both of these varieties, but before delving a little deeper into each, I'll pause here for a brief aside. While writing this post, I took a moment to read this funny bit about wine writing in Tom Wark's Fermentation:  "While learning grape varieties and regions can be fun - in the sense that staying home on Saturday nights to watch documentaries on Theodore Roosevelt is fun - it is unnecessary." Joel Stein, wrote that in his "The End of My Career." And while it fulfills my wish for more humor in wine writing, Stein's claim is like saying one doesn't need to know anything about Ernest Hemingway's personality and lifestyle to know what motivated him to write "The Old Man and the Sea, " and "The Sun Also Rises."  Background helps with context.  

                                       

Understanding Chardonnay

Few wines, white or red, have been both lauded and trashed like Chardonnay.  For instance, the Chardonnay grape has been mistaken for Auxerrois, a variety that's more at home in Alsace than Burgundy.

A bit of grape trivia.  In Alsace, Auxerrois is another name for Pinot Gris, which itself was once called Tokay Gris, although it has nothing to do with Hungarian Tokaj.  As if that's not confusing enough, Auxerrois is also known as Auxerrois de Laquenexy in Alsace and Luxembourg.  And nearby, in Germany's Moselle, Chardonnay was once known as Auxerrois Blanc. 

Then, there's the mistaking of Pinot Blanc, a white mutation of Pinot Noir, for Chardonnay.  Despite the confusion, though, since the early years of the 20th century, Chardonnay has been planted just about everywhere and celebrated in even more places.  

But you don't have to be a grape grower to appreciate the charms of Chardonnay (or Auxerrois).  But knowing a little about the growth habits of the grape will surely improve and increase your appreciation of the wine.

Climatically, Chardonnay likes to be right in the middle between cool and warm, especially in clay soils, veined with limestone and chalk.  In cool climates, Chardonnay is lean with racy acidity, while warmer climate Chardonnay can be weak and flabby from low acidity. 

Chardonnay wine making is either cool in stainless steel fermenting tanks or warm in oak barrels.  Because Chardonnay is low in aromatics and distinctive flavors, it usually is accompanied by the toasty smoky notes of oak, mainly French.  Cool climate unoaked Chardonnay leans toward pears, citrus and honey. 

Pairing Chardonnay with food is an easy task, because there is a style of Chardonnay for every occasion.  Leaner unoaked Chardonnay is a good match with simply prepared fish, roast chicken and pork.  Add oak, and the best food matches become more flavorful smoked fish, or roast turkey dark meat and spicy Asian dishes.  

                                                       

Understanding Pinot Noir

Nailing the essence of Chardonnay is easy, compared to the more difficult challenge of  describing the character and flavor of Pinot Noir.  I've had a lifelong fondness for Pinot Noir, but I still struggle to say what Pinot Noir means to me.  I could tick off the places where Pinot Noir shines, like Burgundy, Oregon and California, but it's more than that.

Youthful Pinot Noir overflows with ripe black cherry and strawberries, maturing to deep fruit flavors, accented by leather, wood smoke and enticing exotic spices.  Savoring all of those things together sounds crazy, but before you take a sip, put your nose in the glass and take a deep sniff. 

Don't be swayed by verbal nonsense, like "sweaty saddle." It was once used in place of leathery to describe Pinot Noir and thankfully never caught on.  Then, there's the unfortunate example of bad translations that developed into a minor flap.  A number of years ago, a misunderstanding circulated in wine circles that a noted English Master of Wine had described the smell of Burgundy as "gout de merde."  In fact, the MW had been talking with a maitre de chai (cellarmaster) in Burgundy who, when describing his red wine, meant a barn smell.  To Americans, though, the m-word meant human rather than animal and the story got legs.  

Also misunderstood is the proper color of Pinot Noir.  It should be a medium ruby, not light like rosé, or deep red like Syrah.  With age, Pinot Noir takes on a brick-red color with yellow edges.  

The taste of Pinot Noir is black cherry, spice, earthy and smoky oak. There is no other wood for aging Pinot Noir than French.  American oak is too bold and resinous, while the gentle spice of French oak makes a good partner with Pinot Noir and it blends nicely with the taste.

Before Pinot Noir, from Burgundy or elsewhere, ever gets to that earthy stage, there is the influence of the vineyard.  Pinot Noir is an early-ripening variety that does best in cool climates like Burgundy, Carneros, Russian River and Oregon's Willamette Valley.  The best soils for Pinot Noir are threaded through with limestone and clay, giving the wine a distinct minerality. 

Deciding which grape makes the best wine is a matter of taste.  Devotees of Cabernet Sauvignon say the character of their favorite grape is, by definition, what makes the wine great.  Mature Cabernet Sauvignon/Bordeaux is, without question hard to beat, except for one other wine: Pinot Noir/Burgundy.

Finally, there are classic dishes, like boeuf bourguignon and coq au vin, that are traditional with red Burgundy, but Pinot Noir is great with roasts and grilled meats, mushrooms and vegetables.  And it tastes great with roast turkey, grilled salmon and aged cheeses. 

There are many white and red wines to choose today, but when thinking of one as an aperitif or with dinner, you'll never go wrong with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

 

Next post: Gift Wine Books

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