Wine & Wood

French oak forest  

For a long time, I've been curious about the relationship of wine and wood, more specifically wine and oak.  

Does wine taste better, or different, after spending time in oak?

The sensible answer, of course, is that it's a matter of personal taste.  Yet, there is an undeniable symbiosis that occurs, when wine meets oak.  Some consumers find that meeting attractive and others can take it or leave it, preferring the varietal personality and flavor of a wine sans oak.  

A very little history of wine and wood.  Thousands of years ago, tradesmen in Armenia, shipped wine down the Tigris river in palm wood containers.  In the years since, wine has been stored and shipped in all manner of wood, including acacia, chestnut, cypress, ash, pine, beech, oak, redwood, popular and eucalyptus.  

Winemakers used whatever wood was available locally: redwood in California, evergreen beech in Chile. Then, in the mid 20th century, the world wine community, led by France, settled on oak as the most compatible wood with wine. 

An often heard maxim is, "Good wine begins in the vineyard."  Vintage after vintage, winemakers prefer Chardonnay from the same vineyard, even the same rows, because they like the continuity they get, year after year.  That continuity is important, whether you're making Chardonnay in California or in Burgundy, or another wine from anywhere else.

Unfortunately, most wine making decisions and techniques are not known to the consumer.  What happens, though, is a sensory alert stimulates the palate, telling the taster that this style of wine is what I like.

Some wines seem to taste better with a little oak, such as Chardonnay.  The popular wine is the best (though not the only) wine to explain the conundrum of oak or no oak. Your senses would have to be dead not to be able to tell the difference between a Chardonnay that has not seen oak and one that has been fermented and/or matured in oak.   

Uncork a California Chardonnay and the scent of new oak rises from the glass and slaps you in the face, while the presence of oak in Burgundy is more subtle and integrated.  Racking a Chardonnay (or any wine) into a new barrel, with a toasted interior, and there's an assertive oakiness that is hard not to notice.

In recent years, over oaked California Chardonnays have taken a beating from consumers and wine writers. Winemakers met the criticism by backing off the percentage of new oak, but there still is too much new oak in many Chardonnays. 

 

California Chardonnays  are often fermented and aged in French oak, essentially delivering a double hit of oak to the wine, usually with some percentage of it new.  Burgundian winemakers are likely to use less new oak in white wine, which for the consumer means a more pleasing balance between oak and wine. 

 New oak has an assertiveness that masks the fruit aromatics and flavor.  It takes time for fruit and oak to come into balance.

 The length of time the wine stays in the barrel, plus the toast level, can make a big difference.  Or, maybe the difference is the winemaker's talent for matching the potential quality of the wine with the measurable quality of the harvest. 

There are other times when a wine benefits from contact with oak.  Fermenting in oak, rather than  stainless steel, gives the wine a more tactile mouth feel and texture.  Maturing a wine in once-used oak imparts an oaky nuance, allowing the essential fruit to show through.  

For the winemaker, it's a matter of balance between varietal characteristics, desired aging time and wine making skill.  

For you, the wine consumer, the question of oak or no oak, is a matter of personal taste. 

Pixabay photos

Next post: Vino from Southern Italy 

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Alexander Valley

  

Hop yard with climbers

In 1840, Cyrus Alexander headed west from his home in Illinois to set down roots in northern California.   He settled in a broad valley by a river, hoping to continue in his trade as a trapper.  But farming was more important in the valley, so by 1843,  Alexander had joined the local farming community.   

Cyrus Alexander became a leader in the small growing community, a move that was recognized when the valley was named in his honor.  Farming in the mid-19th century, in what would become  Sonoma County,  was mostly row crops.  Prune orchards and hop yards were added, and up to the 1960s, were the major agriculture in the Alexander Valley.  

The transition to vineyards, mainly to support bulk wine production, came later.  By the early 1970s, hops had mostly disappeared from the crop mix and prunes gave way to vines, a sign of the new reality that would help slake Americans growing thirst for wine. 

These were early years for wine in Alexander Valley.  Jug wine and bulk wine were the first wines to build a core for the wine business. Varietal wines, mainly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, were poised to bring fame to Alexander Valley. 

As vineyards spread across the bench lands east of the Russian River, wineries got busy transforming grape juice into wine.  With one eye on vineyard soils and climate, and the other on the growing consumer demand for wine, growers planted more red grapes.

The change to the modern era of wine making in the valley began in the early years of the 1970s, with the resurrection of Simi Winery and the arrival of Jordan Vineyard & Winery.  

The ocher colored Jordan winery building, designed to appeal to Francophiles, Tom and Sally Jordan, at first produced, in Bordeaux fashion, only an Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, later adding a textured, weighty Chardonnay.

Alexander Valley's warm climate is well suited to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, planted in hillside  vineyards and flatter valley floor.  A singular distinction occurred with the 1974 vintage when Rodney Strong Vineyards bottled the valley's first single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon from Alexander's Crown near Jimtown.

 In the mid-1960s, Robert Young, on the advice of UC Davis, planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, positioning Robert Young Vineyards as one of the most valued wine grape growers in the state.  Word of  Young's success soon spread to other wineries including Chateau St. Jean. 

Alexander Valley Cabernet leans toward a harmonious blend of herbs and black fruits, backed with nicely integrated fine tannins.  Alexander Valley Merlot is decidedly fruit driven, with plenty of natural acidity.

Seghesio Home Ranch Vineyard

Zinfandel is Alexander Valley's other red that attracts Zin fans everywhere. One of the top Alexander Valley Zins is the Seghesio  Home Ranch Vineyard, an old-vine Zinfandel that plays off of the Seghesio's Italian heritage.  The Home Ranch is one of a dozen Zinfandels from Seghesio. 

Ridge Vineyards, a winery with a long history of storied Zinfandels, has an impressive collection of 17 Zins, four of them from Alexander Valley, including Buchigani Ranch, Boatman, Stone Ranch and the iconic Ridge Geyserville.

Chardonnay, on the other hand, benefits from cooler conditions  along the Russian River and around Jimtown, the small spot famous not only for neighboring vineyards but also the Jimtown store, where you're likely to see local wine people picking up a sandwich.  The Chardonnay from this area is lean with tropical fruit notes.  

There are more than two dozen wineries in Alexander Valley.   Here are 12 worth consideration: Alexander Valley Vineyards, deLorimer Winery, Ferrari-Carano Winery, Francis Ford Coppola Winery, Jordan Vineyard & Winery, Lampson Family Wines, Lancaster Estate, Robert Young Estate Winery, Rodney Strong Vineyards, Silver Oak, Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, Trentadue Winery.

 

Next post: Wine & Wood 

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Vin from Southern France

 

 

Life is good along France's posh Mediterranean coast.  Seafood is plentiful, orchards and gardens are bountiful and the vineyards of Roussillon, Languedoc and Provence are busy supplying France and the world with a wide range of wine.

These are fertile lands, from the border with Spain, eastward along the Mediterranean arc.  Here, the wine culture of France is at its most colorful and diverse.  A maritime climate enhances the conditions for an abundant array of wine styles like nowhere else in France. 

As familiar as the wines of the south of France are to today's French wine drinkers, they had trouble in the past attracting the attention of Americans.  In the 1970s, as Americans were becoming more familiar with Bordeaux and Burgundy,  the Russian born American, Alexis Lichine, was busy pitching the marketing campaign, "French Country Wines," mainly about wines from the region of the Cote de Roussillon.

Lichine was known to American wine drinkers as the owner of Ch. Prieure-Lichine in Margaux, and the guy who married  glamorous Hollywood movie star, Arlene Dahl.  But his efforts to sell French country wines to Americans met with sales resistance, mostly because Americans knew little then about Mediterranean wine regions, much less that Roussillon, Languedoc and Provence have individual personalities.  

A lot has changed since Lichine's day, so let's take a closer look at the three main French Mediterranean wine regions. 

Roussillon, in the west, next to Spain, shares the Catalan culture and language with Spain.  The Spanish influence in Roussillon is similar to the history of the French-German region of Alsace. 

A large part of the Roussillon economy is dependent on olives and grapes, with abundant orchards supplying cherries, plums, peaches and apricots to markets throughout France. 

Vineyards are rooted in the valleys and  rolling foothills.  Roussillon's variety of soils are a suitable medium for a wide range of grapes.  Blends  are common in Roussillon, with Grenache Noir, Syrah and Carignan the leading red grapes and Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Macabeo for whites.  Macabeo is a popular white variety adopted from northern Spain.

Roussillon is famous for its range of dry and sweet Muscats, as well as Banyuls vins doux naturels, a French specialty where fermentation of a naturally sweet wine is stopped by adding grape spirits. It's essentially the same technique as is used to make Port and Madeira. 

 Roussillon Wines: Domaine Pierre Cadene, $11;  Domaine Lafarge Nicolas, $20; Danjou Bauessy, $67; Domaine Forca Real, $15.

Languedoc is France's volume leader and an ambitious producer of a range of wines, from sparkling to dessert.  Heading east along the Mediterranean, the inland region of Languedoc lies between Roussillon and Provence.  A slight detour before crossing the Rhone river takes you to the Southern Rhone and a different expression of the wines from those found in Roussillon or Provence. 

Syrah and Grenache, followed by Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvedre, are the most common red grapes.  Plantings of Carignan, once a major variety, were dramatically reduced in 2015 by an EU vine-pull scheme, to reduce a wine surplus.

Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are the leading Languedoc whites.  Chardonnay and/or Chenin Blanc play a minor role, supporting Mauzac, in Languedoc's popular sparkling wine, Blanquette de Limoux.

Long a sprawling area of limited AOC wines, In 1985, Languedoc 's noted Corbieres and Minervois wines were elevated to AOC status, boosting the total AOCs to ????. 

Languedoc Wines:  Reserve Saint Marc, $15; Deferlante, $33; Coteaux du Languedoc Saint Cristol Cuvee, $23; Les Darons, $14. 

Provençal lavender

Provence may be better known for tourism than wine, although Provence Rosé is the wine favored by locals and tourists to wash down local dishes centered around an olive oil and garlic-based cuisine, featuring aioli, the versatile garlic infused mayonnaise.

Pale pink rosés, made primarily from Grenache and Cinsault, are mildly fruity and mostly off-dry.  Mourvèdre, Carignan and Syrah are reserved for Provence red wines, while Semillon, Ugni Blanc and Vermentino are the main white grapes.  

Vermentino, known in Provence as Rolle, is identified mostly with Sardinia and had its moment a few years back as an alternative white to Albarino and Viognier.

Cassis, a small white wine area in Provence is better known for cassis, French for blackcurrant. The popular liqueur is the noted Provençal contribution to the world of drinks.  Mix cassis with chilled white wine and you have Kir. 

Not as well known outside of Provence as cassis, are the oak-aged red wines of Bandol.  Based on Mourvèdre, Bandol may also include Grenache and Cinsaut. 

Provence Wines: Chateau Saint-Pierre-Eden Rose, $20; Provence Vineyards, $23; Mas de Gourgonnier, $18; Juliette, $17. 

With some exceptions, wines from these three regions are plentiful and affordable.  The dozen wines suggested above are mainly blends and mostly red, but there are plenty of white varietal wines, sparkling wines and sweet dessert-style wines.  Most of the choices you'll find in your local market are from Languedoc, but that depends on wine merchant preferences and local demand.

Next post: Alexander Valley

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Rhine Rieslings

Note: An odd usage convention refers in print to a certain German river and wine region(s). For the English speaker, Rhine (river) is easier to understand than the German word Rhein. But the names of the wine regions - Rheingau, Rheinpfalz and Rheinhessen - are more pleasing to the eye in German than the awkward "Rhinegau." Thus, all of the following references of Rhine and Rhine regions, will be English and German, respectively.  

 

                                                

Riesling is often mentioned as the greatest white wine grape on the planet.  If so, why isn't wine made from Riesling more popular?

Germany's Rhine region is frequently cited as the source of the greatest white wine made.  If so, why doesn't Rhine Riesling sell better than, say, Chardonnay, which happens to be the planet's best-selling white wine.

Riesling is made in smaller quantities than Chardonnay, in such far flung places as Australia, Northern Italy, Finger Lakes, Alsace, Washington state, New Zealand.  Yet, in many of these same places, wine shoppers will reach for a bottle of Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc and pass right by the Rhine Riesling. 

"Meininger's International" report on the share of the 2024 market had Other Whites (including Riesling) at less than 1%, while Chardonnay held 21% of the market.  Although both white wines showed an increase, they lagged behind the dominance of red wine sales.

Taste preference is certainly a factor for avoiding Riesling, but surely there is more.  So, lets look at why Riesling, and in particular Rhine Riesling, is not a better seller. 

✔ Riesling is perceived as a sweet wine, although some are dry; Chardonnay is perceived as a dry wine, although some are sweet.

There are two kinds of wine making: Wine made by a winemaker that you can taste, such as intended sweetness; and wine made in the imagination of a marketer or salesperson.  Stylistically, the winemaker's wine is as advertised.  For years, though, we've been told by marketing and sales that Riesling is a sweet wine. To be sure, there are sweet Rieslings, but there are dry Rieslings as well, like German Trocken (dry)  and Halbtrocken (off-dry) Riesling.

✔  German wine language is hard to read and understand, especially on German wine labels.

Ask six people to pronounce Gewürztraminer and you'll likely hear six different pronunciations.  The word is pronounced geh-vairtz-tra-mee-ner, with emphasis on "vairtz" and "mee."  And the two dots over the letter ü is an umlaut, or diacritical mark placed over a vowel to give the letter a different sound.  That can be confusing to the non-German speaking wine drinker, especially when reading a German wine label.  In recent years, the German wine industry has worked to simplify label language, but it is what it is and the language will not change.

 ✔ Consumers don't understand the difference between Rieslings from the Rheingau, Rheinpfalz, and Rheinhessen.

While the flavor characteristics can vary greatly depending on vineyard terroir, in general Rheingau Rieslings are mineral-rich and long lived.  Rheinhessen Rieslings have more of the typical peach and citrus flavors.  Rheinpfalz (now known as Pfalz) Rieslings are full bodied and dry with citrus notes.

✔ Wine buyers, perhaps subconsciously, reach for Chardonnay in a familiar shaped bottle, but shy away from the unfamiliar tall flute-like shape of a German wine bottle.

Bottle shape and color are subtle buying aids.  Consumers have been conditioned to recognize Chardonnay in the modern slope-shoulder, dead leaf green colored Burgundy bottle.  There's some question, though, about what wine is in that tall green (Rhine and Moselle) or brown (Rhine) flute-shaped bottle?  

This list of reasons why Riesling doesn't sell better is not exhaustive, but it is an indication of four possible things that may explain what Rhine Rieslings are all about, especially when compared to Chardonnay.  

Understanding Rhine Riesling, and all German wine, requires a definition of terms, not something most wine drinkers bother with, but knowing the ins and outs of German wine standards is essential to knowing the style of wine you're buying.  

Qualitatswein: Germany's largest wine category, known as QBA, vary in sweetness  and alcohol depending on the rules of the region where the wine is produced.  QBA wines may contain added sugars (Chaptalized).

Kabinett: The lightest of the six Prädikat "wines of distinction," that may not be Chaptalized.  Finished alcohol range for Kabinett is 9-11%.  

Spätlese: A Prädikat wine that means "late harvest." Defined by must weight, Spätlesen finished alcohol is 10-12%. A spatlese is noticeably sweet, but balanced with steely acidity.

Auslese: This Prädikat wine means "selected harvest."  Auslesen are sweet and long-lived.  It is at this level and above when the grapes are often botrytized, resulting in a complex sweet wine with a unique flavor. 

Beerenauslese: Full-on botrytized Prädikat wine, rich, sweet character and strongly influenced by botrytis.  Beerenauslese means "berry select" and by some estimates it is the ultimate dessert wine.

Trockenbeerenauslese: Just when you thought Rhine Rieslings couldn't get any more luscious, there is Trockenbeerenauslese or "TBA," botrytized sweet wines made from grapes shriveled on the vines. Quantities are sometimes so small that the wine is made in glass demijohns, with fermentation often taking up to a year or more to reach the required 5.5% alcohol for TBA.

You may not agree with those who say Riesling stands at the top of the world's best white wines, or that Rhine Riesling is the leader, but Riesling's complex flavors grow on you.  And to help in your discovery,   here's a quick look at the character of Riesling and why you should consider Rhine Riesling next time you make a white wine purchase.

                                       

 Common descriptors for Riesling are citrus, honeysuckle, jasmine, fruit salad, mineral, Granny Smith apples, marzipan, peaches, apricots.  Riesling has fruit sweetness, and certain styles also have residual sweetness, but there is always sufficient zesty acidity, to keep the wine from cloying. 

Riesling trocken from the Rhine is a good match with shell fish and Chinese and Thai food.  Sweeter Riesling Halbtrocken and Spätlese are perfect with fish or white meat in a light cream sauce. You'll need the weight and sweetness of Auslese for dessert.

Finally, if you haven't yet had the pleasure, next time you're dining at a Thai or Chinese restaurant, check the wine list for a Rheingau Halbtrocken (half dry or off dry). 

Freepik photos

Next post: Provence & Languedoc

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Prosecco Rising

  

Are Champagne houses pricing their bubbly out of the U.S. wine market?  It's a timely question, since sales of the elite French fizz are slumping, while the market for a more prosaic sparkling wine is soaring. 

What wine is that?  Prosecco, the northern Italian spumante that is setting sales records, everywhere it is sold.  

According to the Consorzio Prosecco DOC, more than 660 million bottles of Prosecco were sold in 2024,   up 7% over the previous year.  More than 76% were Extra Dry and Brut and 8% was the rising Sparkling Rose category. Prosecco DOC amounts to nearly 25% of Italy's total sparkling wine production.  

The grape responsible for all that impressive performance is Glera, the main grape in Prosecco.  The name, Glera, wasn't adopted until 2009, for reasons that had  to do with protecting the Prosecco name from others benefiting from the success of the Veneto fizz.  

Up to 15% Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco (Blanc) and Pinot Grigio (Gris) can be added to Glera to boost the wine's aromatics and flavor.  In 2020, Pinot Nero (Noir) was allowed for Prosecco Rose.

While Champagne Brut claims to be dry, Prosecco proudly admits to being off-dry.  Fact is, the percentage of residual sugars for both brut-style sparklers is about 1.2%, while Extra Dry is 1.7%.  And, Prosecco clocks in at a pleasant 10.5 to 11.5% alcohol, depending on style.  

Prosecco col fondo, or "with sediment," is a departure from standard Prosecco.  Col fondo is not disgorged and is bottled with the crown cap still in place.  The dry style spumante is capable of short-term aging (similar to Champagne) for added complexity.

 Other select Proseccos: Prosecco Superiore DOCG, from the best vineyards in Conegliano-Valdobbiadene and Asolo.  Not as well known as Valdobbiadene Prosecco, the wines of Asolo are popular among Prosecco fans.

How It's Made

Most Prosecco is made by cuve close (Charmat), a tank method named for a Frenchman.  However, Italian inventor, Federico Martinotti, developed the sealed tank method before Eugéne Charmat. Outside of Italy, though, credit for the process goes to the French. 

A base wine, with yeast and sugar, is put into a sealed pressure tank, for the second fermentation, the stage when the bubbles are made.  After the rapid second fermentation, sugar is added to adjust for style and the wine then goes directly to bottling.  

The main advantage of using the tank method is it's faster and more economical than a second fermentation in the bottle, such as is used for making Champagne.  Secondarily, the tank method is ideally suited to wine that does not normally age. The disadvantage is the wine may just taste like a nondescript wine with bubbles, lacking the depth and complexity of a bottle-fermented sparkling wine.

Critics claim that Prosecco is too sweet and tooty-fruity.  Bargain bin Prosecco, perhaps, but the best Brut Prosecco tastes like Golden Delicious apples and ripe luscious peaches.  Those enticing flavors bring out the best in cocktails like the Prosecco Mimosa and the Bellini.

An aside. I first visited Venice in the 1950s, before tourists crowded the romantic city's narrow byways and canals. I didn't know anything about Prosecco then. 

The last time I visited Venice, tourism had picked up considerably, so I avoided the popular sights for the relative quiet of a famous bar and the pleasures of a classic cocktail. 

Sometime between 1934 and 1948, the exact date is unclear, Giuseppe Cipriani founded Harry's Bar in Venice. Cipriani's lasting fame, though, was the creation of the Bellini, a blend of white peach puree and Prosecco, topped with a few drops of raspberry juice to give the cocktail a pink blush. 

The color reminded Cipriani of the pink hue of a painting by the 15th century Venetian artist, Giovanni Bellini. 

My Venetian Bellini was served lightly chilled in a flute-shaped glass. It had the touted pale pink color and luscious flavors of a perfectly ripe peach. 

A Bellini at Harry's was everything I hoped it would be.  

Tasting and Buying Prosecco 

Prosecco is casual fizz compared to the more formal Champagne bubbly. The attraction of Prosecco is its high fruit profile supported by a little sweetness. Add
brisk acidity and you have a characteristic Prosecco, just right as a balanced sipping wine, or the base for a wide array of cocktails.

Most Prosecco is priced about $25 or less. Prosecco Valdobbiadene and Prosecco col fondo are more. 

Look for these Proseccos: Ca' dei Zago, Ruggeri Vecchie, Col Vetoraz Valdobbiadene, Nino Franco, Bianca Vigna, Adriano Adami, La Marca. 

When confronted with an either-or decision, my brother was fond of saying, "That's why there's vanilla and chocolate ice cream."  The same simple logic works for deciding on sparkling wine: Champagne, sparkling wine, or Prosecco. 

 

Consorzio Prosecco DOC photo

 

Next post: Rhine Rieslings 

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Malbec

Ask a wine savvy person to name the birthplace of the Malbec grape and they are likely to  say Argentina.  That's because the South American country took to Malbec when it was losing favor in France.

On the other hand, the same wine savvy person might also hazard a guess for the French wine region of Cahors. Another good guess, but the home-ground of Malbec is Bordeaux, the famous wine region, not that far from Cahors, in southwest France. 

Historically, Malbec lingered in the background in Bordeaux, while maintaining a home base in Cahors, where it became known as Auxerrois.  Then, by the mid-20th century, having made a comeback from a damaging vine-pull scheme in Argentina, Malbec rose to international fame.

Malbec in Bordeaux

In Bordeaux, Malbec was relegated to second place, along with Petit Verdot, behind the more regal Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. That was the varietal makeup before 1956 when a severe frost swept through Bordeaux vineyards, especially in the left-bank vineyards of the Medoc.

Malbec never fully recovered and by 2011 there were only a few thousand producing acres of Malbec left in all of Bordeaux. Today, Malbec is included in traditional Bordeaux blends by some chateaux, but it is not bottled as a varietal.  Malbec stayed constant in Cahors and today it is widely planted. 

Cahors castle looming over a vineyard           

Malbec in Cahors

Cahors  is an ancient wine region producing a "modern" wine.  In the 19th century, Cahors red wines were known as "black wines" for their deep inky color and were used mainly to give color to weaker Bordeaux wines.  Near the end of the century, phylloxera drastically reduced the vineyards, followed by a second setback in 1957, when a hard freeze nearly destroyed all of the vines. 

Growers rebounded with a replanting scheme of Malbec, or Cot as the variety is known locally. Improvements also included more modern winery equipment and  wine making techniques. 

Today's Cahors is at least 70% Malbec, with Tannat and/or Merlot making up the balance. Having a blending choice allows winemakers to opt either for the harder more tannic Tannat, the softer Merlot, or use both varieties.  Moving away from the heavier "black wine of Cahors" to a lighter fruitier style, positions Cahors as a modern red wine with international appeal.

The taste of Cahors is ripe plums, raisins and subtle earthy notes. Oak adds spice to the overall complexity.  The level of tannin in the finish depends if the wine is a straight Malbec, or a blend with Merlot or Tannat.

Popular Cahors brands:  Clos La Cautale, Ch. la Caminade, Ch. du Cedre, Ch. Lamartine, Jouves & Croisille, Ch. la Coustarelle.

Malbec in Argentina 

In the early years of wine making in Argentina, starting in the 16th century, grape growing and wine making were under the aegis of the Catholic church.  Eventually, the Church's grip began to loosen and finally dissolved for everything but sacramental wine.

Malbec was imported from France in 1851 and steadily grew in popularity in the vineyards of Mendoza, the largest wine region in Argentina.  Besides its popularity as a varietal, Malbec is the dominant variety in red blends, with Cabernet Sauvignon a secondary component.

Although Mendoza Malbec is known throughout the world, other Argentine regions such as San Juan, Salta and La Rioja produce noteworthy varietal Malbec.

Argentine Malbec is deeply colored, occasionally with purple tints.  The wines are robust, with lush fruit flavors, good acidity and moderate to full tannins.  

Look for Argentine Malbec from Catena, Familia Zuccardi, Luigi Bosca. Terrazas de Los Andes.

                                          

Malbec Elsewhere

At last count, Washington state has about two dozen different Malbecs, both varietal and in blends, including Barnard Griffin, Patterson Cellars, Ch. Ste. Michelle, Walla Walla Vintners.  

Most of the Malbec grown in California's north coast goes into blends, but there are also varietal Malbecs from Sebastiani, Crane Lake, Justin, Silverado Vineyards.

Australia has a handful from producers like Henschke and Taltarni.  New Zealand and Chile, even fewer.  

 For your next encounter with Malbec, arrange a vertical tasting of one wine from each of the areas where Malbec is made.  Invite a few friends over and enjoy!

 

Correction:  The total number of Cru Bourgeois chateaux that made it into the classification is 170, not 220, as I reported in the February 22, 2025  post.  The breakout, as of 2025: 120 recognized as Cru Bourgeois, 36 as Cru Bourgeois Supérieur and 14 wines as Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel.

 

Cahors & Malbec photos: Freepik

Next post: Prosecco Rising

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Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois

  

There is Bordeaux red wine and then there is Bordeaux red wine.  By that, I mean classified growth wines from the Medoc and Cru Bourgeois Medoc wines. 

What is the difference?  Well, besides price, which for the classified growths is scary, the princely classified wines are ensconced in the preferred terroir of St.  Estephe, Margaux, Pauillac and St. Julien. While moderately-priced Cru Bourgeois red wines come from the lesser terroirs of Medoc, Haut-Medoc, Listrac-Medoc and Moulis-en-Medoc.

That classification is not my opinion. It is the rankings set down by official Bordeaux agencies in 1855 of Medoc classified growths, and in 1932 of Cru Bourgeois. In the 170 years since 1855, there has only been one official change to the classification, while the official ranking of the Cru Bourgeois wines has been updated numerous times. 

I was reminded of the chasm of difference between the two levels of Bordeaux red wines  recently when I read about the 2025 classification of  Cru Bourgeois Medoc wines. Before 2025, the previous ranking was in 2020, a decree that the new revised classification will be released every five years.  

Today, 246 Cru Bourgeois properties are ranked below the classified growths.  When the classification was first drawn up in 1932, there were 444 estates.  Over the years, for numerous reasons, including the economy and going out of business, the number was reduced almost by half. 

As of 2025, Cru Bourgeois wines are now ranked by a blind tasting panel in three tiers: Crus Bourgeois, Cru Bourgeois  Superieur, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel.  Additionally, the estates must practice sustainable viticulture, with the highest levels for Superieur  and Exceptionnel.  

Cru Bourgeois red wines are mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, with the addition of Merlot and/or Cabernet Franc.  Aging in oak, plus more updated vineyard practices and wine making, are  practiced mostly by estates in the upper two levels, that are more able to afford higher overhead.

With so many estates spread over a large area, plus subtle differences in terroir, the flavors of Cru Bourgeois wines can be difficult to describe.  But, expect most of the wines  to have a flavor profile favoring the black currant side of Cabernet Sauvignon. Also, there could be a textural plumpness, depending on how much Merlot is in the blend.  And tannin is there for structure but is not raw and astringent.

Since 1932, Cru Bourgeois members have moved up or down in the rankings and even dropped out.  And there are a few estates that have decided to not join the official classification.  

As of 2010 classification, six of the original Exceptionnel chateaux - de Pez, les Ormes de Pez, Poujeaux, Chassse-Spleen, Siran and Potensac - have decided to form Les Exceptionnels group to market their wines separate from the classification.

Here are the numbers for 2020 and 2025:

             2020                                                 2025

Cru Bourgeois, 179                                 Cru Bourgeois, 170

Cru Bourgeois Superieur, 56               Cru Bourgeois Superieur, 36

Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, 14         Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, 14 

Although there was no change at the top Exceptionnel level, the two lower levels saw reduced numbers, with the largest at the Superieur tier, resulting in a total of 220 members in 2025, down from 249 five years ago.

There is a wide range of prices for Cru Bourgeois, even within each of the three levels. For example,  Ch. Carbon La Pelouse, Haut-Medoc Exceptionnel is $27 and Ch. Belle Vue Haut-Medoc Exceptionnel, varies from $18 to $25.  Others include Ch. Saransot Dupree Listrac-Medoc Superieur, $44 and Ch. Lagrave, Cru Bourgeois, $30.  

Shop around, but if you like the Bordeaux taste, make your next wine purchase Cru Bourgeois.

Photo courtesy Jancis Robinson

 

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Alsace in Anderson

                                                                          Wikipedia

Until recently, interest in wine was making slow but steady progress.  But then, anti-alcohol advocates spoiled the party with a scare campaign and wine sales slowed to a crawl.  Of course, it wasn't all because of anti-alcohol.  There were those saying the problem might also be changing lifestyles and the emergence of a new generation interested more in other beverages.

To be sure, finding innovative ways to attract more wine drinkers has become more challenging, but not impossible.  So, what to do?  How to overcome shifting interests by adjusting the focus to something different?

Showing the curious what you do best is a proven strategy, proposed by a small group of wineries in western Mendocino's Anderson Valley.  Husch Vineyards, Navarro Vineyards, Handley Cellars and Lazy Creek Vineyards banded together in 2006 to form a  festival promoting aromatic white wines, that say Anderson Valley. 

An idea was hatched to feature Alsace-style aromatic white wines the Anderson Valley is known for -- Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc -- at the Anderson Valley Alsace White Wine Festival, now known as the Anderson Valley International White Wine Festival.

Aromatic white grapes don't do well in warmer parts of California.  But in Anderson Valley,   the climate is just right, with warm days to ripen the grapes, and cool nights to develop clearly defined varietal character and crisp acidity.

The harmonization of these conditions come together along the valley's 16-mile long  narrow corridor that opens in the west to the cool Pacific Ocean.  Morning fog and cool daytime breezes, drawn in by inland warmth, balance the growing conditions for grapes to make aromatic white wines. 

                                                  

Riesling is the leading white grape in Germany's northern Rhine and Mosel valleys, and across the Rhine River in the Alsace region of France.  By one measure, Riesling is the world's greatest white grape, no contest.  Other folks claim the greatest is Chardonnay. But Riesling is more versatile, capable of making stunning dry, off-dry and sweet wines, something Chardonnay can't claim. 

Anderson Valley wineries have continuously shown an ability to make all of these styles.  Riesling can be dry or sweet and do it with charm. At its most characteristic, Riesling has ample peach and apricot flavors, with mineral and citrus peel notes.  And with maturity, Riesling displays characteristic petrol accents. 

 Anderson Valley Riesling: Greenwood Ridge Vineyards, Toulouse Vineyards, Navarro Vineyards. 

                                          

 Gewurztraminer is more aromatic than Riesling, with upfront exotic spice and lychee notes. Americans, though, are not that familiar with the scent of lychee outside of Asian food scenes.  More often, people say Gewurztraminer reminds them of the smell of roses.

Gewurztraminer started out as Traminer in Italy's northern Alto Adige region, moved north to Germany, then west to Alsace, across the Rhine in France.  Much later, the grape was brought to the U.S. west coast. 

Anderson Valley wineries show a stronger preference for Gewurztraminer than Riesling. Over the years, Navarro Vineyards, among others, has made award-winning dry and late-harvest Gewurztraminers.  

Anderson Valley Gewurztraminer: Handley Cellars, Husch Vineyards, Toulouse Vineyards, Fathers & Daughters Cellars, Navarro Vineyards, Philo Ridge Vineyards. 

                                                

Pinot Gris smells like honey, ripe pears and exotic spices.  Although not as well known as either Riesling or Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, in the same family as Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc, is made by a handful of Anderson Valley wineries. 

Anderson Valley Pinot Gris: Lichen Estate, Breggo Cellars, Toulouse Vineyards, Long Meadow Ranch, Handley Cellars, Navarro Vineyards.

                                                  

Pinot Blanc is often mistaken for Chardonnay.  And, with a little oak, it does smell and taste like Chardonnay, although Pinot Blanc is not as popular.  Sans oak, Pinot Blanc smells like apples, melons and sometimes with an earthy note.

Anderson Valley Pinot Blanc: Navarro Vineyards, Handley Cellars.  

The two-day Anderson Valley International White Wine Festival, February 15-16, will be held at the Mendocino County Fairgrounds in Boonville.  The Grand Tasting, at which more than 40 wineries will pour their white wines, will be on Saturday, with winery open houses, on Sunday. 

Next blog: Malbec

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Walla Walla

                                                                                                                 Richard Duval image

 Walla Walla.  To the indigenous Salantins, the name means "place of many waters."  But, to wine people everywhere, Walla Walla means some of Washington state's best wine. 

Located in southeastern Washington, on the border with Oregon, Walla Walla shares top-wine honors with Woodinville, in the western part of the state, near Seattle. The two regions are separated by miles of high desert, farmland and the Cascade mountain range.  Eastern Washington is also known for wheat farming and the famous Walla Walla sweet onions.

Walla Walla's 120-plus wineries are mostly scattered around the city of Walla Walla and in a corner of Oregon.  The Walla Walla AVA (1984) is a two-state appellation; Walla Walla in Washington, Milton-Freewater in Oregon.  Walla Walla AVA itself is within the much larger Columbia Valley AVA. 

Milton-Freewater was granted its own AVA in 2015 and has since gained wide attention for a particular geologic formation.  The Rocks District, a sub-appellation of Milton-Freewater, is in an ancient dry riverbed covered with large smooth stones, similar to the vineyards of Chateauneuf-du-Pape in France.  The Rocks has built a solid reputation for distinctive Syrah.

Walla Walla is red wine country.  More than 80% of varieties planted in the AVA are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.  Most of the remaining 20% is Cabernet Franc and small plantings of other red grapes.  White grapes, led by Chardonnay, account for just a small percentage of the total plantings.

                                 

Like most vineyards in eastern Washington, irrigation is necessary in Walla Walla AVA  vineyards. The eastern part of the appellation, though, tends to be at higher elevations, with  cooler daytime temperatures, permitting dry farming, a rarity for vineyards in Washington.

The other major concentration of Washington wineries is centered around the city of Woodinville, northeast of Seattle.  Woodinville hosts 130 wineries that draw grapes from throughout the vast Columbia Valley.  Being near Seattle makes it easy to visit Woodinville wineries, although the distance from a big city hasn't stopped wine lovers from making the trek to Walla Walla.

Walla Walla History 

Some settlers moving west along the Oregon Trail in the 19th century decided to stay in eastern Washington, finding the land around Walla Walla good for farming.  In the 1850s, grape vines were added to the crops, for eating out of hand and making wine.  Vineyards expanded and by the 1880s, growers were hoping to ship grapes and wine to Seattle by train.  But the transcontinental railroad had bypassed Walla Walla, dealing an economic blow to the nascent wine industry.  Prohibition dealt another setback, and it was nearly 40 years before the wine industry began to recover. 

Today, fans of the diverse range of Walla Walla wines, owe a debt of gratitude to Gary Figgins of Leonetti Cellar, who is credited with being the first to plant vinifera vines in the area, in the early 1970s.  Leonetti went on to win acclaim for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Throughout the 1970s and 1980s, Walla Walla wine got a further boost from L'Ecole 41, Woodward Canyon, Waterbrook Winery and Seven Hills Winery in Oregon, all of them iconic Walla Walla AVA wineries.

By 2008, a long list of new wineries came on line, sparking interest in different wines, such as those made from Rhone varieties, the odd Italian grape like Sangiovese, and Tempranillo, Spain's most distinguished red variety.  

The Rhone Rangers, started in California, raised interest among Walla Walla winemakers, in Rhone-style wines, especially for Syrah.  Prospective Rangers in the Walla Walla AVA, like Rotie, a small producer that took its name from Cote Rotie, a Northern Rhone Valley wine, embraced the Rhone wine concept.  

Walla Walla Wines

Walla Walla is best known for Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux-style blends, incorporating Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Besides Syrah, a handful of wineries are working with other Rhone grapes, like Viognier and Roussanne. 

The following dozen Walla Walla-area wineries are listed by location:   

East of the city: Figgins, Walla Walla Vintners, Leonetti Cellars. 

West of the city: L'Ecole No. 41, Long Shadows Vintners, Woodward Canyon. 

South of the city: Pepper Bridge Winery, Doubleback, Patterson Cellars.  

Milton-Freewater: Atelier Freewater, Rotie Cellars, Watermill Winery.

On your next trip to the wine store, look for the Washington wine section and Walla Walla. It's worth the search.  

 

Next post: Prosecco Rising

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Vin Jaune

 

 

Vin Jaune in a clavelin with Comte cheese

 

Imagine how boring life would be if the only wine you had to drink was Chardonnay, or Cabernet Sauvignon.  Some people are good with that and others, like me, want something different.

Such as, Vin Jaune, or "yellow wine," an unusual French wine that is more Spanish, in character, than French.  Vin Jaune is made like Sherry, looks like Sherry and tastes like a dry fino.  

Another unusual thing about Vin Jaune is it comes in a traditional embossed bottle , called a clavelin, that until recently has been illegal for sale in the United States.  The reasoning is a confusing web of U.S. bureaucratic rules.  

Since 1941, the sale of Vin Juane in a clavelin has been illegal, because the 21 oz (620ml) bottle was not approved by the federal government.  Yet, it has been seen on store shelves in many places throughout the country.  

The irony is that in 1974, the federal agency controlling alcohol allowed  750ml and 375ml bottles, but not 620ml (21 oz), which continued to rule out the 21-ounce clavelin. Then, earlier this year, TTB approved the 21 oz bottle, so the sale of Vin Jaune in clavelin is now legal, which really doesn't change anything.

 The Tale of Yellow Wine

France is among the most standardized country in the world with its specific wine appellation  (AOC) system.  So, how then does a wine anomaly like Vin Jaune continue to exist in such a hide-bound environment?

Vin Jaune is made in small quantities in the foothills of the Jura mountains of eastern France, near the border with Switzerland.  Once an important wine region, with extensive vineyards, today planted acreage in Jura is a fraction of what it once was. 

Production of Vin Jaune is controlled within four appellations:  Chateau-Chalon AOC, Arbois AOC, Cotes de Jura AOC and Vin Jaune l'Etoile AOC. 

During the Middle Ages, more than 40 different varieties were used for Jura wines.  That number has dropped to five, with Savagnin (blanc) the most important.  Savagnin is a very old aromatic grape related to the Traminer, but not as aromatic as Gewurztraminer.  Although distinct from Sauvignon Blanc, DNA profiling has shown that Savagnin is the parent of numerous grapes, such as Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc.   

Savagnin undergoes a slow fermentation and then the wine is racked into small 60 gallon barrels and the magic begins.  Required aging for Vin Jaune is six years, from harvest to bottling.  During that period, winemakers closely monitor the wine, but it is not topped up. At the end of six years, about 60% of the wine remains.

The long oxidation causes a space to open above the wine, forming a thin layer of yeast, which takes up to three years to develop.  The yeast film is poetically called vin di voile or the veil.  Development of the veil is similar to the growth of flor on fino Sherry, although flor is thicker than the veil and resembles a layer of dirty cottage cheese.  

The importance of checking the wine's long maturation progress in wood is to make sure that volatile acidity (VA) doesn't develop.   If you've ever smelled vinegar in a wine, chances are that off odor is volatile acidity.  VA is the volatile acids in wine, such as acetic acid, that cause the tell tale vinegar smell.

Following barrel aging, Vin Jaune goes directly to bottling, without the fortification that is common in Sherry.  The Vin Jaune clavelin, supposedly is named for  the amount of wine remaining after six years of aging. 

Toasted nuts, especially walnuts, is the primary sensory note shared by both Vin Jaune and fino Sherry. But Vin Jaune develops a complexity from years in oak, with flavors of ripe apples, warm spices like cinnamon, dried fruits and sometimes an underlying cheesy note. 

Prices for Vin Jaune in clavelin range from $40 to hundreds of dollars.  A search may be required for these producers: Domaine Dugois, Tissot, Domaine Rolet, Jacques Puffeney, Ganenat, Domaine de Montbourgeau, Robert Gilliard, Maison Pierre Overnoy.

A final note: Every year, during the last week of January or first week of February, Vin Jaune producers gather, in a different location, for La Percée du Vin Juane, a festival to celebrate the release of the new vintage of Vin Jaune and local foods such as Comté cheese. 

Photo: Wikipedia

 

Next post: Walla Walla

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The Value of Aging Wine

                                     

With the holidays now a fading memory, my thoughts turn back to the aged wines enjoyed at the Boyd family table, or wines friends and family told me about.  Long ago, I became a believer in bottle aging red wine, so the positive reports I got of the wines below were not  surprising. 

I've never been satisfied with just the end result.  I want to know why.   Why do some wines age gracefully and others seem to stumble the older they get?   And why do certain wines reach their peak, while others have yet to arrive at that ultimate point of drinking pleasure?

The transformation of a red wine aging from raw youth to polished maturity is surely grounded in science, but for some wines, the change seems more like alchemy.

Although I've enjoyed my share of mature red wines that still had a way to go; I never fully understood why bottle aging resulted in a more complex wine.  So, I thought a non-scientific examination of the wine aging phenomenon would help me (and you, the reader) better understand what's going on.  The following exercise, I hope, will illustrate the benefits of aging.

How wine ages

Because of the intrinsic nature of red wine, they are the wines most capable of beneficial aging.  While it is not completely understood why wine benefits from aging, it is known that red wine has higher levels of grape phenolic compounds, in concert with other chemical elements, that are responsible for a red wine's color, texture and tannin, the necessary components of aging.

White wines, on the other hand, are lower in phenolics.  And whites become browner because of slow oxidation of their phenolic content.  However, white wines that are affected by botrytis (Riesling) and those with higher acidity, are more likely to benefit from bottle aging.  Barrel aging of white wines, like Chardonnay, also has some influence on aging.

Wines that benefited from aging

In the early years of my wine collecting, I kept a cellar log, recording the history of the wine, from when I got the wine, the date I drank it, and my tasting notes.  Eventually, I lost interest in the log and just enjoyed the wines.  

Here are seven wines that gave me an extra measure of pleasure and that I'm glad I let age before pulling the corks: 

Franco & Fiorina 1950 Barbaresco...Heitz Cellar 1999 Napa Valley Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon...Fetzer Vineyards 1999 Bien Nacido Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir...Silver Oak 1995 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon...Penfolds 1998 South Australia Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon (magnum)...Williams Selyem 2012 Russian River Valley Foss Vineyard Pinot Noir...I.V.M. 1954 Boal Madeira.

And, to further explore the idea of bottle aging, I've asked two of my sons and a few friends  to comment on aged wines they have had recently.  Plus, there's a personal note on a Cabernet Sauvignon enjoyed at the Boyd family 2024 Christmas dinner. 

Bill Traverso, an old friend and fellow wine judge, California: "Years ago, I bought a bottle of 1945 Chateau Lafite, to be opened for one of my birthdays or the year 2000.  I ended up having it for my sixtieth birthday (Bill didn't  say when that was) at a small Italian restaurant in Santa Rosa. The wine still had structure and identifiable fruit aromas plus the bouquet of an aged Cabernet blend.  In my opinion there was still enough tannin and fruit for the wine to carry on for at least 10 more years."

Sean Boyd, co-owner/winemaker, Sightglass Cellars, Washington state:  "On New Year’s Eve, Kristin and I had dinner at our friends Shaun and Kelly's house.  I brought a 1990 Arrowood (Sonoma) Cabernet Sauvignon.  It was a gamble, because of the age, but totally worth it. The color was still amazing and dark/ruby.  It smelled like Cabernet, but the best part was how much fruit was left and how smooth it was.  It turned out the hit of the night."

Mark Boyd, consumer and wine collector, Washington state:  "In April 2024, I had a 2010 Woodinville Wine Cellars Cabernet Franc, with Sean, paired with BBQ rib eyes.  I remember the wine holding up very well and the cork was in great condition.  I think it was better than I remember other Cab Francs I've had. The wine was definitely mature and ready to drink and it stood up nicely with the dry rubbed ribs."

Rich Marschner, a close friend and fellow wine traveler, Arizona, submitted this entertaining report on a 1991 Vine Cliff Cellars Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, "Oh, that cork.  But if I didn't have my Ah-So,  I'd have been Dead-Meat.  It was broken, the top section dry as dust and the bottom soaked.

"First impressions:  'This is an Amarone.'  But of course it isn't.  Cigar leaf, plus a big sniff of raisin.  Medium dark color, with a little brown edge, but not prominent.  Good acid, medium sort-of-generic-tasting fruit.  Baby-soft tannins.  Some sediment.  Doubt I would recognize this as a cab, had I not known. "We're having it with Wiley's (his wife) all-day effort at beef short-ribs. 

 "Well, we've sucked it all down and it held up remarkably well, not showing fading fruit at all.  Nice match to the big, wonderfully dark and complex short-ribs, due to the 

acid (if somewhat short on fruit).  We thought it was quite good, and a very interesting wine."

 

                                             

 

Denis Broderick, an old friend who introduced me to "Irish Wine" (Bushmills Whiskey), Northern Ireland:  "I must admit, up front, that I belong to the school that appreciates wines that have a bit of maturity, with age being relative, and appropriate for the specific wine.  

"With that in mind, it normally helps if you have several bottles of the same wine/vintage, thus able to appreciate how the wine is evolving and the resulting changes to balance, complexity and personality, and hopefully, all positive.

"For example, I bought, en primeur, clarets (Bordeaux) of 2000, 2005 and 2009 vintages; plus, on release, Graham’s Vintage Port 2003, to open at family weddings and births. Once cracked open, we relive the events responsible for the purchase.  Last year, for example, we used the port to help with grandson Aodhan’s 21^st birthday, and to ponder where the years had flown!

"Further to the value of aging, the one wine that stood out was The Armagh 2001, from Jim Barry in Australia's Clare Valley. The label mentioned 'Special Late Harvest Shiraz' that punches in at 15%.  And there's the Irish link with Armagh, Clare and Jim Barry. 

"So, I bought two bottles of the wine after Armagh won the All-Ireland Gaelic football final, for the first time, in 2002, between Armagh and Kerry.  The first bottle was corked, so the expectation was not great when opening the second.  However, I was not disappointed, but relieved; it was drinking perfectly.  Bright, hint of brown and very deep color. Definitely Shiraz on the nose and palate (with tobacco hints), but so rich and heavy and with some silkiness.  Great structure and length.  A perfect match with the Roast Rib of Beef.

"Whilst we enjoyed the wine, I relived watching the match live – on a bike fitness machine in the local leisure centre!  The match went back and forth, but  in the end, Kerry went on to win their first All-Ireland.  But Armagh came back, winning the All-Ireland in 2024, this time against Galway. A well-deserved win, albeit 22 years after the first.  Again, like wine, well worth the waiting! 

"Come to think of it: wine must be the only reason in life for wanting to get old, quickly."

The Boyd Christmas dinner wine was an impressive Ridge 1989 Santa Cruz Mountains Monte Bello, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon , Merlot and Petite (sic) Verdot.  Elegant and refined, beautifully balanced, with staying power; could easily have been mistaken for a classified growth Bordeaux. 

Impressions gained from drinking aged wine, can only be attained through patience. That's where wine's true value is.

 

Next post: Vin Jaune

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