A Look at Hybrids

                                                                                                                                                  Pixabay image

There was a time when the United States was divided by grape genus: Vitis  labrusca in the east and Vitis vinifera out west.  

The separations were understandable.  Eastern growers struggled with the damage  harsh eastern winters had on the more delicate vinifera varieties, like Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, so they made wine from more weather-tolerant grapes native to North America. 

California, and later Oregon and Washington state, didn't have problems with severe, cold weather, so growing wine grapes, especially vinifera, was a better choice. There is also an historical angle about how wine grapes got to California, but that's another story. 

The problem with native grapes is they have a pronounced flavor described as "foxy," an off-putting animal-like character, not the fruits and flowers of fine European wines that were becoming so popular.  It was a vinous problem that needed a practical solution.

 Attempts to grow vinifera in such places as Seneca Lake, were mostly unsuccessful, and native grape wines were a hard sell, so growers began to look at hybrids, as a way to overcome winter kill of their grapevines. 

Food and ampelographers (plant scientists) worked on the problem, developing new vines and processes for the wine business that would adapt to local climates and conditions, while making life easier for the grower.  Ampelography is the branch of plant science that develops vine varieties.  

So, in the early 1980s, Wineries and growers planted  American and French hybrid grapes in eastern and mid-western vineyards, especially New York's Finger Lakes district.

Fast forward to the current worry about climate change and the impact it is having on the suitability of where to plant certain varieties.  Some talk is circulating about taking a new look at hybrid varieties for California, and more specifically which grapes to plant where.

Originally, the aim of hybridizers was to develop resistance to pest and vine diseases.  In eastern and Midwest vineyards, it was also important to eliminate vine winter kill.  

Basically, there are hybrid varieties and crosses.  A hybrid is the result of two different species, while a cross is between two varieties of the same species. In eastern U.S. vineyards there are both American and French hybrid grapes. 

A few of the many American hybrids include: Norton, a popular red variety, valued for its lack of foxy character; Concord, the most widely planted American hybrid, used for wine, juice and as a table grape; Niagara, the white answer to Concord, it has a foxy flavor and is planted widely in New York, eastern Canada and Brazil.

French hybrids widely planted in American vineyards, include  Baco (Noir), Seibel, Villard, Chambourcin and Maréchal Foch. Ironically, while some hybrids proved useful outside of France, a few, such as Isabella and Noah have been illegal since 1934.

The main problem with using hybrid grapes for wine is their objectionable flavor.  However, although it is not likely that hybrids will be used for fine wine, they may find success in more commercial wines.

 

Next post:  The Fashion of White Wine

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Original Zin

                                                                                                                                 iStock image

Apologies to Jake Tapper and Alex Thompson, but I needed a title for this post on Zinfandel, so I cribbed it from their book, "Original Sin."  The book lays out a detailed  and disturbing account of how Joe Biden's stubbornness helped to get us into the political quagmire we are now slogging through. 

While the book outlines how grim the present political climate is in the country,  the outlook for Zinfandel is bright and currently making a bit of a comeback. 

So, I thought an update on Zinfandel, the uniquely American red wine, would be a good way to forget about national politics, at least for a few minutes, and start the new year on a positive vinous note.

The story of American wine didn't begin with Zinfandel, but with indigenous grapes.  It soon became apparent that wine drinkers wanted their wine to taste like European wine, so the wine scene in the east turned to hybrids, while California, Washington and Oregon settled on Vitis vinifera, the genus that includes such popular varieties as Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Following propagation in an Austrian nursery, "Zenfendel" crossed the Atlantic, changed its name in a New England nursery and eventually made the journey west to California. 

By the end of the 1850s, Zinfandel, had become a uniquely American grape, growing in the vineyards of Sonoma and Napa and other spots in California.  

Early in California's history, it was common for Zinfandel to share a vineyard with simpatico red varieties like Petite Sirah, Mourvédre and Carignane, in a field blend.  

Each grape brought something different to a harmonious blend, but Zin's dominant  flavors won out and today's examples are 100% Zinfandel, with the exception of a few that favor Petite Sirah with Zinfandel.

The attraction was flavors of pepper, cinnamon, black cherry, blackberry, plums and raisins.  A finished Zin presented good acidity and was compatible for aging in either American or French oak, the latter adding a touch of spice.   

With the development of DNA technology in the 1990s, a new historical path for Zinfandel was charted.  A back and forth argument asked if Zinfandel was related to a grape in Italy, and was finally settled when DNA showed that Zinfandel and Primitivo of southern Italy, were the same grape. 

The search wasn't done, though, since DNA also made the connection between Zinfandel and an ancient variety in the vineyards of Croatia. 

Today, small amounts of Zinfandel can be found in such far flung places as South Africa, Western Australia, Chile and Italy.  But California has the most plantings, especially in Sonoma County and the Sierra Foothills  

A short list of representative California Zinfandel includes these Zin masters: Robert Biale, Ridge, Ravenswood, St. Francis, Kenwood, Peachy Canyon, Sutter Home, Fetzer, Amador Foothill Winery, Rosenblum, Dry Creek Vineyard, Shenandoah.

Zinfandel goes with just about any food you'd pair with Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot. But I find that Zin and grilled ribs slathered in a fruity barbecue sauce or grilled steaks and vegetables are great food and wine marriages. 

 

Next post: The rise of Hybrid Grapes

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Make It a Sparkling New Year

  

New Years Eve is less than a week away, so it's time to start thinking now what bubbly you have on hand.  Champagne is nice, but there are a number of alternative sparkling wines to consider. 

California has acclaimed fizz.  Oregon and Washington state sparkling wine may not be as well known as their still wines, but they are good choices for holiday drinking.  And European bubbly from Italy and Spain often rivals French Champagne. 

What's the difference between Champagne and all the others?  Beside the obvious fact that Champagne is made only in a region northeast of Paris, there's individual local terroir, the cumulative growing conditions that vary wildly from region to region and country to country.

Terroir makes a difference.  Grow the same grapes as Champagne region - Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier -  under local terroir conditions anywhere else and you still don't have Champagne.

Then, there's the percentages of each grape that goes into the blend (cuvee) which in Champagne is traditionally 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay (the amount of Pinot Noir varies when Pinot Meunier is added to the cuvee), but may vary in other places.  

At one time, Champagne was the only quality sparkling wine made, but today the worldwide market has many other choices.  So, let's have a look at some of the better known ones. 

Saumur sparkling wine (mousseux) is made from Chenin Blanc and a rosé version has Cabernet Franc as the base wine.  Additionally, blends may include a half dozen other grapes including Chardonnay.  Aged in caves dug from tuffeau rock, used in building construction, sparkling Saumur is a popular sparkler from the middle Loire.

 Crémant d'Alsace was first officially standardized in the 1970s.  Pinot Blanc is the most common variety used for the base wine, although other choices include Riesling and Pinot Gris.  Crémant d'Alsace Rosé is made only from Pinot Noir.

Cava, the traditional method sparkling wine from the Catalonia province of Spain, is made from Macabeo, Parellada and Xarello, in four grades: Cava, Cava Reserva, Cava Gran Reserva and Cava Paraje Calificado, akin to a single-vineyard wine that is aged for 36 months.  Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are also authorized.

Spumante (Italian for sparkling wine) is made in a wide variety of styles, ranging from the wildly popular Prosecco to Franciacorta, in Lombardy, a traditional method bubbly that stands on its prestigious name without the word spumante on the label. Oltrepò Pavese, made by metodo classico is the first class sparkling wine from Piemonte.

California sparkling wine is mainly made by the tank method where the second fermentation occurs in a closed tank, instead of a bottle. But in the early 1960s, Napa's Schramsberg Vineyards was producing sparkling wine by méthode champenoise, and it is today one of the Golden State's best sparkling wine.  Then, by the early 1970s, a handful of French Champagne houses came to California with Domaine Chandon, Mumm Napa and Domaine Carneros by Taittinger, and set up camp in Napa Valley. 

Sonoma County has a long history of making sparkling wine.  Korbel has been making bubbly, using the traditional method, since 1896.  By the mid-20th century, Iron Horse was making sparkling wine in Green Valley, Spain's Freixenet opened Gloria Ferrer and Judy Jordan of the Jordan wine family opted for sparkling wine with J Wine Company. 

Roederer Estate, the California sparkling wine of Champagne Louis Roederer, opened its door in the late 1980s in Mendocino's Anderson Valley, and quickly became a sparkling star.  Scharffenberger Cellars is the other major maker of Anderson Valley sparkling wine. 

Other wineries making American sparkling wine include: Gallo's Andre and Ballatore, and Wente Vineyards and Stony Ridge Winery; Domaine Ste. Michelle in Washington and Argyle from Oregon; Gruet in New Mexico, and a handful of bubbly brands in the New York Finger Lakes, to name a few.  

This New Year's eve, pop the cork on a bottle of American bubbly, serve the wine with lightly salted popcorn and welcome in 2026.  Cheers.

 

Next post: Original Zin

Leave a comment at boydvino707@gmail.com 

 

Nightcaps

This is the time of year for the customary gathering of family and friends to celebrate the holidays. Meals are set out with plenty of special food and drink and maybe just one more wee dram of something to drink.

When everyone is sufficiently sated, there's often a need for a digestive to settle the stomach, or a nightcap to round out the evening. An ounce or two of a dessert wine or fortified wine is all that's needed for a nightcap. With all the good things to eat, it's easy to overdue it and reach for a digestif. 

DIGESTIFS               

                                     

Digestifs are alcoholic beverages formulated to aid in digestion, such as Campari. Aperitifs, on the other hand, are alcoholic beverages meant to stimulate appetite, such as a Fino Sherry. 

Popular digestifs include amaros, or herbal drinks with a slightly bitter taste. A common brand is Fernet-Branca, an Italian amaro (Italian for "bitter") that is popular with Italians, but not so much with Americans. Amaros are proprietary blends of botanicals such as herbs, roots, flowers and citrus peels.  

America doesn't have a tradition for digestifs, relying instead on France and Italy, where the history of these special beverages goes back hundreds of years. The list is extensive, but here are the best known.  

Top of the list is Campari, an Italian digestif, considered a bitters, but not an amaro by the Italians. Campari is flavored with chinotto, a cola-like Italian soft drink, made from a species of orange, and cascarilla, a flavoring agent made from the croton tropical evergreen plant.

Campari is an ingredient in the Negroni cocktail, made from gin, red Vermouth and Campari. Amaro Montenegro is an alternate choice in a Negroni.  Averna, a Sicilian amaro with a different formulation, is based on orange peel, with caramel, licorice and cola notes. 

Fernet-Branca an amaro with a bitter medicinal taste, derived from bitter aloe, quinine and other herbs and fruits. Fernet is higher in alcohol than most amari. 

In the either you like it or not category is Cynar, an Italian bitters taken as both an aperitif and a digestif. Based on artichoke, the recipe for Cynar also includes 13 other herbs, plants and spices.

From Germany, there's a pair of herbal digestifs: Jagermeister, a popular blend of 56 different roots, fruits and spices, is aged in oak for one year, then blended with sugar and caramel for a sweet and bitter digestif; Underberg is similar but sources the ingredients from 43 countries, adds sugar and caramel then matures the blended digestif in oak and puts it in small single-portion bottles.  

APERTIFS 

        

Many of the beverages in the aperitif category are also considered digestifs, since the ingredients are similar and all of them are made from secret recipes that have remained in the same family or institution for generations. 

Aperol is an Italian aperitif served over ice or as an ingredient in a mixed drink, such as the Aperol Spritz Cocktail, a blend of Aperol, Prosecco and soda. The ingredients in Aperol include rhubarb, gentian, bitter orange and cinchona, a source of quinine from the bark of an evergreen tree.

A popular aperitif drink in New Orleans is the Sazerac Cocktail, a blend of rye whiskey and Peychaud's Bitters, a kind of amaro made in New Orleans. 

Among the best known aperitifs are the so-called monastery liqueurs. Chartreuse is the most complex and distinctive, and my favorite. Formulated since the 1700s by Carthusian monks in the mountains north of Grenoble, France, the secret recipe for Chartreuse is known by only two monks and includes cinnamon, mace, lemon, peppermint and thyme, among 130 botanicals. Green Chartreuse is known as the "elixir of long life," while the sweeter yellow Chartreuse has been compared to the Italian liqueur Galliano.   

Benedictine is the other noted French monastery liqueur, enjoyed both as an appetite stimulant and an aid to digestion. Originated in 1510, from a secret recipe by Benedictine monks, in a monastery in Normandy, the recipe was lost during the French revolution, then discovered again in 1863. The recipe for Benedictine differs from Chartreuse, with 27 herbs and spices, including honey, vanilla and cinchona.

This holiday, tune up your appetite with an aperitif, then end the meal with a relaxing digestif. I'll be back the day after Christmas with some sparkling suggestions, other than Champagne. Happy holidays. 

Next post: Make It a Sparkling New Year

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Oregon's Southern Reds

             

 

Pinot Noir is Oregon's most famous wine. That's not gob smacking news for people who closely follow the West Coast wine scene. But it may come as a surprise to hear that there are other red wines made in the Beaver State. 

International attention is mostly focused on the Willamette Valley, site of Oregon's top Pinot Noirs. South of the Willamette, close to the border with California, are the lesser known Rogue Valley AVA and Umpqua Valley AVA. 

The two appellations fall under the larger Southern Oregon AVA, established in 2005. The area is just over 2 million acres, in four sub appellations, that make up 40% of Oregon's wine: Applegate Valley AVA, Red Hill Douglas County AVA, Rogue Valley AVA and Umpgua Valley AVA. 

Climate and geography are the controlling factors for wine production along the U.S. west coast. Conditions are marginal for growing premium wine grapes in western Washington, where most of the vineyards are east of the Cascade Mountains. 

Mendocino County marks the northern most commercial vineyards in California. And, in terms of climate, southern Oregon, is closer to California than it is to the Willamette Valley.  

The most popular grapes in Oregon's south are the Bordeaux varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Petit Verdot is of lesser interest and is, in fact, of minimum interest now in Bordeaux. Other red varieties grown in Rogue River are Syrah and Tempranillo.  

What to look for: Southern Oregon Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux blends are not as fruit forward as those from California. The wines have a subtle fruitiness with more subdued tannin. Syrah offers dark fruits, with mineral accents and Tempranillo is more red fruits. 

Rogue Valley AVA

The Rogue Valley, between Medford and Grants Pass, is bisected by the Rogue River. The appellation is the warmest in Oregon, ideally suited to growing Bordeaux and Rhone varieties. 

Bear Creek and the Applegate and Illinois rivers are tributaries of the Rogue River, flowing between the Cascade, Siskiyou and Coastal mountain ranges, moderating the climate. 

Currently, there are 20 wineries in the Rogue Valley appellation, compared to 300 in the Willamette Valley AVA. Vineyard acreage in the Rogue Valley is the most of the four southern appellations. 

And that number doesn't include the 15 wineries in the Applegate Valley AVA, a small east-west oriented appellation within the Rogue Valley. Granitic soils impart a minerality to the area's Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Umpqua Valley AVA

North of the Rogue Valley, roughly between Roseburg and the southern end of the Willamette Valley, the historic Umpqua Valley is the site of Oregon's first vineyard.  In 1961, Pinot Noir and Riesling were planted at Hillcrest Vineyard.

Today, the region has 15 wineries spread across the appellation. Diversity is the rule, with  vineyards in the western section benefiting from a cool marine influence.  More inland, growing conditions present ideal conditions for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. 

Spanish varieties, such as Tempranillo, thrive in the volcanic soils at the southern end of the appellation, around the city of Roseburg. The choice of Tempranillo, by wineries like Abacela, point out the diversity of the region. 

In the past, Oregon wine was known as a one trick pony when it comes to red wine: only Pinot Noir. Southern Oregon offers the red wine alternative in Bordeaux and Spanish varieties.

Dreamstime image 

 

Next post: Nightcaps

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Napa's Other Wines

               

It doesn't take a Master of Wine to see the connection between Cabernet Sauvignon and the Napa Valley. The two are as intimate as Romeo and Juliet.  And fans of Napa red wine need no convincing of the pairing. 

Knowledgeable lovers of everything Napa are aware that the famous California valley has other wines.  Fact is, Napa selections run the gamut from sparkling, dry white, other reds, to the odd sweet dessert wine. 

Here, then, is a run down of Napa wines that are not Cabernet Sauvignon, but are good choices when you're "caberneted" out.

Napa Sparkling Wine.  As far back as the 1950s Jack Davies of Schramsberg and Hanns Kornell of Kornell, were making sparkling wine in the Napa Valley.  

It would be more than 20 years before the next chapter of Napa bubbly introduced French Champagne techniques to the valley. Moet-Hennessy opened Domaine Chandon in 1977.  Then, in 1989, G.H. Mumm moved its sparkling wine facility, Domaine Mumm,  from a location adjoining Sterling Vineyards, farther down the valley to a new site on the Silverado Trail. 

The new producers were faithful to the French techniques and styles, using only Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.  Further, the French didn't ever claim that the Napa wines attempted to duplicate Champagne. 

What to look for:  Napa Valley sparkling wines have their own signature flavors, although it may take an expert to tell the difference from Champagne.  Napa fizz is less expensive and perhaps leans more toward fruity with less of the yeasty character evident in Champagne.  Artfully blended base wines are key to a seamless flavor that is unique to the best sparkling wine. 

Dry Whites.  Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are the super whites of the Napa Valley.  Cool climate Chardonnays come mainly from Carneros, in southern Napa Valley, with fewer in the warmer northern parts of the valley.  Same for Sauvignon Blanc, although there is plenty of it in mid-valley, near Rutherford.  Other whites include Riesling, mostly in higher vineyards like Spring Mountain, and a small set of other white wines like Chenin Blanc.

What to look for:  Napa Chardonnay has a fruity profile, often with mineral and citrus notes and a healthy dose of spicy new French oak.  Oaky styles of Napa Sauvignon Blanc, like those of the French Graves, are rare.  Instead, the Napa style is more mineral laced, with a trace of tropical fruit. Rieslings are fruit forward, giving the impression of sweetness and mostly with floral and stone fruit flavors.

Other Reds.  Zinfandel and Syrah are the most popular, non-Bordeaux reds.  Zin from Howell Mountain and Calistoga are the best known, while Syrah comes more from Carneros and Spring Mountain.

Wineries consider both of these varietals as secondary choices; not in quality, but as  backups to Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir.  Availability of these wines is usually controlled by market demand and personal likes of the winemaker and/or winery owner.  

Whatever the reason for Napa Zinfandel and Syrah being on a winery's list of red wines, they are good choices, especially if you like the winery's approach to making Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir. 

What to look for:  Zinfandel naturally has more ripe jammy fruit and higher alcohol than Cabernet, but many Napa winemakers today are making more contemporary Zins, minus the jam jar fruit and with a more balanced fruit/alcohol finish.  Napa Syrah is packed with dark cherry flavors, that strikes a balance between Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Sweet Desserts. Sweet wines are a tough sell, even though they are delicious on their own after a meal or at the close of the day.  When matching sweet wine with dessert, the key is getting the sweetness balance right, so one doesn't overwhelm the other.

Many of these "stickies" (as the Aussies call them) are low alcohol sipping wines, like late-harvest Riesling, that stand on their own, or blend nicely with a simple dessert like fresh fruit or a slice of pound cake:

Beringer Nightingale is a noteworthy Napa choice, made in the Sauternes style, from a blend of botrytised Sauvignon and Semillon.

Grgich Hills Violetta is an unusual late-harvest blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling.

Far Niente Dolce, a late harvest Semillon.

Castello di Amorosa Moscato, 100% Muscat Canelli and Simpatica, a blend of Riesling and Muscat Canelli. 

Handwritten Wines 10-Year Tawny, a sweet fortified nightcap, is made in the style of a Portuguese Tawny Port. 

The Napa Valley is chock-a-block with wineries, many of them with a good selection of  sparkling, dry and sweet wines.

 

Next post: Rogue River Reds

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Grouchy & Grumpy

   

Lately, developments on the wine scene have been making me grouchy and grumpy.

It's a personal state of mind that hopefully doesn't affect my dealings with people I know. Those people who know me, say grouchy and grumpy sounds about right. 

Anyway, here are four things that I think are disrupting the wine world and annoying me.  

The impact of AI on wine.  Followers of wine business news or feature items in the general press, have no doubt noticed an increased encroachment of artificial intelligence in every aspect of life. 

Although I've been accused of being a Luddite, my view is while AI is being used to better many aspects of our lives, including the wine business, there will be aspects that ultimately prove to be problematic.   

Because the impact of AI is increasing, even for writers and photographers who do not know if their work is being manipulated by AI, the satisfying act of creativity could be out of their control if not managed properly.  

So, what it comes down to is, with the flurry of AI activity, I worry about how AI will make wine writing less relevant.   

Expensive wine. Today, there is a level of shocking wine pricing that is beyond reason. You may not have noticed, but some high-end Burgundy, Bordeaux and California  Cabernet Sauvignon are priced in the thousands of dollars.  

Why?  

Because, believe it or not,  there are people willing to pay any price for a bottle of one of these coveted wines.  And, compounding this inflationary practice, only those people can say if a wine is worth the high price and why.

Unfortunately, hearing that wine prices are way outside their budget, a new beverage shopper,  trying to decide whether to buy wine, or beer, or some other beverage, will likely not opt for wine. 

 Of course, there is no way to know, for certain, if high prices are contributing to low wine sales. But, on some level, throwing up high prices is surely a barrier to sales. 

Best lists.  I read an item recently, addressed to winery owners, suggesting that if you want to sell more wine, then add the word "best" in your marketing pitch.

Right, as if we don't have enough "experts" advising us that this Chardonnay is the best from a given vintage, or region, or winery.  

The benefit of collecting and drinking wine is making a personal decision of what to buy.  Often, the "best list" is not based on solid knowledge of the wines, but on someone else's  likes and opinions. 

If you must, only use a "best list" as a guide, and make your own wine buying decisions. The best wine for you is the one that best suits your taste, not someone else's opinion of "best."  

Wine as an investment.  Some people reading this will, no doubt, think my concern is silly and misguided.  After all, they might say, wine is sold in commerce, at retail stores, restaurants and cafes.  So, why not make a buck from investing in wine?

Because wine should not be treated as a commodity, something that has lost its individual distinction in the marketplace and is being hawked for the lowest price.  

When wine becomes an item of investment, it is then not intended to be drunk and enjoyed, but passed along from one investor to the next, in search of a monetary profit.

Someone once said that wine is "a social lubricant."  The primary reason for wine is to provide a pleasurable accompaniment with food, in a social setting.  Thus, wine should be viewed as a personal investment in gustatory pleasure, not an impersonal way to make a profit.    

To wrap up this personal rant, here are some closing words: You probably have your own list of things that annoy you about how wine is marketed, promoted and sold.  And I understand if you think what I've written here is nonsense, but before you hit the delete button, read the four things again and see if there's something about the impact of AI that is troubling to you. 

Dreamstime image 

 

Next post: Napa's Other Wines

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Great Barolo

This way to Barolo

Barolo is not just a good Italian red wine, it's a great one.  For years, it was fashionable, even necessary, for some marketers to call Barolo, "Italy's Cabernet Sauvignon."

But, Piemonte winemakers knew better.  Nebbiolo was their red grape, and in the Piemonte (Piedmont in English) region of northern Italy, Nebbiolo makes better red wine than Cabernet Sauvignon.  The name Piemonte means "at the foot of the mountains."

In fact, Nebbiolo is believed by many to be Italy's best red variety, better than the ubiquitous Sangiovese of Chianti and the lesser known Aglianico, the grape of Taurasi.

The classic description for Nebbiolo is tar and roses, plus dark cherries and herbs with a clear licorice note, supported by firm tannin and crisp acidity. 

That inviting combination of varietal characteristics is common in a small tier of vineyards in Italy's northern Langhe. Most of the south facing vineyards are scattered along the rolling hills, up to 1,000 feet, at the base of the Italian Alps. 

Although there is more Barbera planted in Piemonte, the wines of Barolo and Barbaresco are the stars of the region. Gattinara, made from Nebbiolo, is a major wine outside of the Langhe, but plantings of Nebbiolo are small in Gattinara, by comparison to Barolo.

Modern Barolo is fermented on the skins and seeds, following a maceration of up to three weeks, with a minimum alcohol of 13%. Traditional aging is in large oak casks, with modern maturation in French oak cellar barriques. 

Required aging of Barolo is a minimum of 38 months, at least 18 months in barrel.  Riserva wines are aged for a minimum of 62 months, 18 months in barrel. 

Barolo is at its best from vineyards in these five leading townships: Barolo, Castiglione Faletto, La Morra, Montforte d'Alba and Serralunga d'Alba.  Soils in these areas are composed of clay marl, containing some limestone.

Among the best Barolo producers are: Bruno Giacosa, Elio Grasso, Giacomo Conterno, Vietti, Franco Fiorina, Mascarello, Paulo Scavino, Oddero, Azelia, Ceretto, Barale Fratelli.

Barolo vintages available today include the highly rated 2020, and also 2021, 2016, 2010 and 2009.  Wines from all of these vintages are expected to mature 20+ years or longer.  The 2025 harvest is expected to be special.

Wine prices, like everything else, have been going up. Barolo has always been expensive, especially from elite producers like Ceretto, Giacosa and Vietti.  At the low end, Barolo prices hover around $50.  Mid range  prices are $80 to $100.  From there, prices soar to as much as $700 for Riservas from recent highly rated vintages. 

Well aged Barolo is best with beef.  Lighter styles are good with salami and seasoned sausages.  Well-aged Barolo pairs nicely with bollito misto, a blend of meats in a garlic sauce.  A favorite dish in Piemonte is brasato al Barolo, a piece of beef marinated and cooked in Barolo.   

Castelmagno cheese

When the last piece of brasato is gone, finish off the remaining Barolo with a piece of Piemontese cheese like Castelmagno, or Testun al Barolo, made with Barolo.  Also good with Barolo is aged hard Parmigiano-Reggiano and semi-soft Fontina, a good match with younger Barolo.    

 

Next post: Grouchy & Grumpy

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It's Time for Beaujolais

                                                                                                                                               Unsplash photo

David Morrison has something to say about the popularity of Beaujolais, in his blog, "The Wine Gourd."  

Morrison, owner of one of the more interesting blog names, is a scientist trained in plant biology who somehow got sidetracked to wine economics.  And if that's not unusual enough, Morrison is an Australian living in Sweden, writing about wine.  

Morrison's essay on Beaujolais export markets suggests there is more than one way to look at the popularity of Beaujolais.  Viewed by market size, the United States is at the top of Beaujolais export markets, followed by the United Kingdom, Canada, Japan and Belgium.  The tiny Grand Duchy of Luxembourg came 23rd out of 25 export markets listed. 

Look at the data by the amount of Beaujolais consumed, though, and Luxembourg shoots up to first, followed by Belgium, Ireland, Canada and the United Kingdom. And, the United States has now dropped to 11th place, behind the Netherlands.

Clearly, the data suggests that Americans love Beaujolais, something that's good to know as the holidays approach and you begin planning the Thanksgiving menu, perhaps to include a bottle or two of fresh and fruity Beaujolais Nouveau, basic Beaujolais, Beaujolais Villages, or one of the ten Beaujolais Cru.

Beaujolais Nouveau.  There was an LP (remember those?) released years ago titled, "Opera for People Who Don't Like Opera," that I think of when Nouveau time rolls around.  The "new" French wine is rich, tasty and uncomplicated, just the right choice for people who think they want wine with the multi-course holiday meal, but are not sure which wine to serve.

A bottle or two of Beaujolais Nouveau is the easy and uncomplicated answer.  Or, if you prefer Italian wine, try Lambrusco, the lightly sweet and fizzy red wine from Emilia-Romagna. 

Nouveau Beaujolais is all about  carbonic maceration (CM), a technique whereby whole clusters of Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc ("Black Gamay with White Juice") grapes are loaded into stainless steel fermenters and the bottom clusters are crushed by the weight above.  

Maceration and normal fermentation begin, carbon dioxide gas bathes the grapes, causing each whole grape to become an individual fermenter. The anerobic CM process results in a fresh fruity red wine of modest alcohol that is intended to be consumed before the next year's harvest.

A bit of wine grape trivia: Gamay Noir is not related to the Gamay grape that has red flesh.

Beaujolais is the basic appellation, amounting to about one half of all Beaujolais produced, and is a step up from Nouveau. Beaujolais undergoes a standard red wine fermentation in stainless steel and includes some CM for freshness, through a process called "semi-maceration."  The aim is to make a structured red wine for near term drinking, or aging for one or two years in bottle. 

Beaujolais-Villages, the intermediate grade of Beaujolais from a series of villages in the foothills that must comply to strict vineyard practices and yields.  Village wines are permitted an extra degree of alcohol, and in general, will benefit from a little aging.

The division between simple Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages is an important one.  Basic Beaujolais is the starting point, for quality and price.  Beaujolais-Villages are more concentrated and show more character, and the difference in price is minimal.  The next step up is the small group of village wines known as Beaujolais Crus.

Beaujolais Cru.  Wines from the ten cru appellations are the most complex and capable of long-term aging. Thus, Beaujolais cru are also the most expensive. 

South of the Maconnais border, the Beaujolais Crus are in a line, from light to heavy : Brouilly, Cote de Brouilly, Chiroubes, Régnié, Morgon, Fleurie, Juliénas, Saint-Amour, Chénas and Moulin-à-Vent.  

Expect to pay under $15 for basic Beaujolais, less than that for Nouveau.   Beaujolais-Villages price range is approximately $15 to $30 and Beaujolais Crus are $25 to $75, with a few Moulin-à-Vent closer to $100. 

A misleading claim that has dogged Beaujolais Cru for years suggests that a few of them, such as Moulin-à-Vent, are as complex as Burgundy.  With a couple of years of bottle aging, the two wines may seem similar, but Gamay Noir and Pinot Noir make different wines.

There is no shortage of wine professionals who dismiss Beaujolais as the country hick at a black tie meal.  Far too many restaurant wine lists omit Beaujolais and Nouveau Beaujolais from the wine list because they are not money makers.   

But recent surveys show that wines like Beaujolais are what people want with their meal, so let's take a closer look at the easy pairing of Beaujolais with food. 

Beaujolais with Food 

Since Thanksgiving will be here in less than two weeks, here are a few tips on pairing Beaujolais with holiday food. Foremost is, drink the wine or wines you like best. 

Still, some advisors think, since the Thanksgiving feast is special, you should uncork your best Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.  

I say, save those wines for another meal, and here's why:

Thanksgiving turkey and the variety of side dishes is a mashup of flavors, seasonings and textures.  A big red with ample tannin, like Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, Italian Barolo and Spanish Ribera del Douro, to name a few, will over power delicate turkey white meat, clash with sweet cranberry sauce and get lost with the heavily seasoned dressing (stuffing?) you serve with the bird.  

Chardonnay will pair better than a big red with a wider variety of Thanksgiving dishes, though Chardonnay is better with fish, roast chicken and vegetarian dishes.  A lightly oaked Chardonnay compliments turkey white meat, but an all-purpose white wine, like off-dry Riesling, Viognier, Spanish Albarino, or Italian Orvieto, is the way to go. 

Finally, there are two important things to know about Beaujolais: It is not Burgundy and never will be; and Beaujolais, no matter its pedigree, should be drunk young, within a year, two at the most for Beaujolais Crus.  

 

Next post: Great Barolo

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AI and the future of Wine Writing

                                                                                                                                         Nick Morrison photo

Lately, there has been an uptick in interest about the controversial possibility of  unstoppable artificial intelligence making inroads into all manner of things, from developing autonomous vineyard tractors to "creating" a fake actor.

Indeed, AI seems to be on everyone's radar.  Just since I began writing this post, separate groups of scientists, writers, politicians and fellow techies have written  letters of concern to Big Tech, demanding that AI be reined in. 

But the concern is not new.  Over the last few years, Big Tech has been busy evangelizing about AI and how it will revolutionize the world. 

One of the leaders of the Big Tech cohort is double talk expert, Mark Zukerberg, CEO of Meta and a member of the techie nouveau riche.  Zuckerberg is not alone in the effort to convince American tech consumers of the promise that AI holds for the future. 

I have to be honest; the impact of AI on the future of wine writing is what worries me, especially when the insidious nature of the controversial technological innovation can be used by unscrupulous people to persuade consumers, by bot-created words to buy wine. 

Wine writing is a creative exercise that requires discipline, knowledge and patience.  Although AI is capable of forming sentences into a whole article, in record time, it cannot create the subtleties and nuances that make writing flow.  Nor can AI match the human emotions and impressions needed when describing the taste of a wine.

Another emotion, within the purview of humans, is cynicism.  It is not an admirable personal trait, though I readily admit to nodding yes when people ask if my middle name is Cynic.  It's not, but I'm concerned that the world has become cynical, and I find it too easy to imagine the possibility, powered by the rise of AI, for the wine world to accept AI generated wine writers, or AI wine "influencers."

The very idea of influencers is bad enough, but a fake one could mean real trouble for wine collectors and drinkers.  This fringe element of wine marketing seems to be more interested in self promotion, while ignoring that AI has great potential to do real harm.  

The ability of wine writing to inform and educate consumers about the pleasures of wine as a natural partner with food has always been a strong force.  Where it lacked strength was in persuading people to buy wine. 

Promoters of AI claim that the technology will take the guess work out of the personally satisfying task of deciding on and then buying a bottle of wine.  Even in our complex world, where an increasing number of things have become automated, it is still satisfying to use one's memory and ability to freely make a decision, without artificial assistance. 

I take comfort in believing that AI will never accurately describe how a wine tastes. And to know that the sensory ability to separate various components in a wine, then put those  impressions into meaningful words, belongs to humans, not machines or bots.  

So, I hope that this short essay focuses some light on the possible encroachment of artificial intelligence on our present and future ability to enjoy the simple pleasures of wine, unaided by AI, or whatever artificial "advancement" may be in our future.   

 

Next post: It's Time for Beaujolais

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A Wine Tale of Two Communes

This is a story about how two communes in Bordeaux emerged from relative anonymity to become the celebrated sites of world famous wines.

Prior to 1987, the communes of Pessac and Léognan were simply parts of the notable Graves district, south of the city of Bordeaux.  Pessac and Léognan  are place names that follow the name of a well known chateaux, and rarely stand on their own.

The celebrated Graves chateaux Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion are in Pessac. There are 10 cru classé wines in Léognan, including such celebrated properties as Ch. Domaine de Chevalier and Ch. de Fieuzal. 

What prompted the name change was a claim that one wine was better than another one.  In 1984, a sizeable group of growers and vintners in the northern Graves claimed that their wines were better than those in the south.  Pessac is in the northern Graves and Léognan is near the southern edge of the Graves district. 

To settle the disagreement, the Institut National des Appellations d'Origine (INAO) decreed that the Graves district would henceforth be divided into two districts.  In total, there are 23 wines from 16 chateaux. 

Unfortunately, while the decree raised the recognition of Pessac and Léognan, it lowered the status of the historic name of Graves.  Perhaps the Graves' greatest moment was when the framers of the 1855 Classification of the Médoc included  Chateau Haut-Brion Pessac as the only property in the Graves to be included with four Médoc chateaux as a Premier Cru or First Growth. 

In 1973, the classification was reclassified, elevating Ch. Mouton-Rothschild to  Premier Growth, to date, the only property to ever move up.  Ch. Haut-Brion is the only Graves property listed in the 1855 Classification. 

There is an argument to be made that other Graves properties should have been included in the 1855 Classification, but in 1953 the INAO formulated an official Graves classification, including white wines, that was revised in 1959.  

The 1959 classification lists 23 chateaux, six of which are from Léognan and two from Pessac.  And since the Graves is known for white wines as well as red, there are nine cru classes for white wines from noted properties such as Ch. Bouscaut, Ch. Carbonnieux and Ch. Olivier.

Most Pessac-Léognan chateaux that make a white wine, use mainly Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon grapes, while some chateaux also blend in small percentages of Sauvignon Gris and/or Muscadelle.  This Bordeaux style of sauvignon is drier and more mineral than the tropical fruit styles from California and New Zealand.

Pessac-Léognan red wines follow the standard recipe of five varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot.  Over the years, the fashion has been to use only the first three varieties, with a percentage or two of Petit Verdot and Malbec, if added at all. 

These red wines are seamless, with no single variety dominating the blend.  In fact, it's a tribute to the art of blending that five individual wines form one unified wine with a signature note of dark cherry, subtle herbs and aromatic spices.

The cost of a Pessac-Léognan wine, red or white, averages $150, although the more valued chateaux are considerably higher: Ch. Haut-Brion, $650; Ch. La Mission Haut-Brion, $400. Domaine de Chevalier is a relative bargain at $90.

French laws relating to wine production and labeling are strict and resistant to change.  More is the reason then that the collaboration between the INAO and the French government to classify the wines of Pessac and Léognan is important. 

Next post: AI and the Future of Wine Writing

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Campania

Mount Vesuvius looming over Naples Bay

Mount Vesuvius, the sleeping giant volcano, looming over the Bay of Naples, erupted in 79 AD, covering the Roman city of Pompeii with clouds of deadly ash.  

Over the millennia, compacted layers of ash formed the main component of the distinctive vineyard soils of Campania.  Falernian, the classic wine enjoyed by the Romans, drew its character from the fertile Campanian soil.

In the modern era, the term "wines of antiquity" usually refers to such wines as  Taurasi, Fiano di Avellino, Greco di Tufo and Falanghina.  All of these white wines are made from modern plantings of grapes held over from ancient times, many of which arrived in southern Italy from Greece. 

An aside.  During a trip to southern Italy, I had the pleasure of meeting Antonio Mastroberardino, a quiet studious man who impressed me as being more interested in the ancient history of the grapes of antiquity than the modern wines made from them. 

Perhaps sensing my interest in learning more about the grape and wine history of Campania than seeing another bottling line, Antonio showed me into his spacious office and study.  

Looking more like a library than a winery office, there were scores of books, some describing the evolution of grape varieties, maps of the region, historical maps and charts and photos of the damage to the winery, caused by past earthquakes that had shocked the region.   

As I listened, impressed by this gentle man's knowledge and devotion to a part of wine history I knew little about, Antonio Mastroberardino helped me to appreciate the essence of Campania wine, from grape to glass.

Here are brief sketches of major Campanian grapes and their wines. Except for Taurasi, most of the wines cost under $25. 

Greco di Tufo, the grape name, comes from the village where the grape is planted and the volcanic rock in the vineyards.  Wines must contain a minimum of 85% Greco di Tufo, with up to 15% Coda di Volpa.  Representative Greco di Tufo include Mastroberardino, Feudi San Gregorio, Quintodecimo.

Coda di Volpa means "tail of the fox," the shape of the grape clusters.  DOC Coda di Volpa: 85% Coda di Volpa.  Representative Coda di Volpa: Fattoria La Rivolta, Vadiaperti, Mastroberardino Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco. 

Fiano di Avellino is a highly valued Campanian grape for sweet wines.  The sweet honied smell of the Fiano grape attracts bees, thus the name Fiano.  Avellino is the Campanian town with nearby Fiano vineyards.  Fianos: Guido Marsella, Quintodecimo, Mastroberardino Radici.

Falanghina is thought to be the grape of the noted Roman wine Falernian. It is scented like orange blossoms, pine and apple.  Representative Campanian Falanghina include La Guardiense Janare, Mastroberardino, Feudi di San Gregorio.  Prices run $20 and under.

Campanian red grapes, Piedirosso and Aglianico, were once thought to have Greek heritage, but DNA has shown both grapes to be natives of southern Italy.

Piedirosso means "red feet" in Italian, a fanciful comparison of a vine stem's color to the color of a dove's foot. More popular in blends, such as 50% of Lacryma Christi, than as a varietal, Piedirosso's flavors are plum, cherry, wild berry and a hint of salty mineral.  Good examples are Mastroberardino Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio, Mustilli Piedirosso Sannio, I Pentri Kerres Piedirosso.

Aglianico is the primary grape of Taurasi, arguably the best known wine of Campania and one of Italy's most revered red wines.  Grown in the volcanic soils of the Apennine foothills, Aglianico is smoky, with black cherry, coffee and mineral, and firm tannins.  Aglianico must contribute at least 85% to the blend, with Piedirosso making up the remaining 15 percent.   

Wines made from international varieties, like Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, are everywhere in the wine market.  And while wineries in many parts of Italy work with these wines, Campania wineries offer the unique wines of antiquity. 

Pexels Photo 

Next post: A Wine Tale of Two Communes

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Loire Valley

Recently, I was browsing through some wine articles and noticed that a Master Sommelier, said that Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are over rated. 

That's one person's opinion, and here's another: making such a sweeping statement is not only ridiculous, but it trashes one of the world's best expressions of Sauvignon Blanc, as well as every producer of the popular variety in the eastern Loire Valley.

Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are Loire icons as well as benchmarks for a style of Sauvignon Blanc emulated throughout the world.

The  Loire Valley is one of the most varied wine regions in France. The name Loire is associated with an historic French valley, but at 600 miles, the Loire is the country's longest river, from Muscadet in the Loire-Atlantique, to Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé at the river's eastern origin.  

Climatically, the valley changes from cool marine to warn inland, with gradations along the way influenced by the Loire River. These variations are subtle, but over time, evidence of changes in the environment showed an ideal  match of grape variety and terroir.

The changes happened slowly over the millennia, but by the early 20th century, grape and terroir had long been in place.

Prior to World War II, Loire wines were mostly not known in the United States.  American G-Is, stationed along the Loire Valley, had developed a taste for the Loire wines.  After the war, they asked for Loire wines when they returned home. 

In their off-duty time, the Americans roamed up and down the Loire, enjoying the valley's patchwork of green vineyards, moated castles, geometric gardens,  and fertile fields of grain.

The variety of Loire wines that attracted the Americans is extensive. Take your pick of sparkling Crément de Loire, long-lived Chenin Blancs of Savenniéres, pale pink Rosé d'Anjou, richly textured, full fruit Cabernet Franc of Chinon, crisp mineral laced Sauvignon Blanc, or sweet moelleux Vouvray Chenins. 

Production of many of the Loire wines is small and they mostly are not seen in the U.S. market.  These seven wines, though, are generally available: 

Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, on opposite sides of the upper Loire River, have Sauvignon Blanc in common, but they are different wines.  Sancerre is racy with a mineral undertone.  Pouilly-Fumé is famously for flinty soil and a "smoky," supposedly from the morning mist hanging over the vineyards. Both Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are made in a pure varietal style and an oaked version.  Sancerre is the best known in the United States, although both wines have their champions.  

Chenin Blanc

Vouvray, the noteworthy white wine from the Touraine district, is for Chenin Blanc lovers. Sometimes called Pineau de la Loire, the Chenin Blanc of Vouvray is golden and aromatic, supported by brisk acidity.  Vouvray is versatile, made in dry and medium-dry styles, plus sparkling and sweet versions.

Chinon and Bourgueil are the Loire's two major red wine appellations, in the Touraine district.  The main grape in both wines is Cabernet Franc, although Cabernet Sauvignon is allowed.  Both areas make small amounts of rosé, and Chinon has a little dry Chenin Blanc, while Bourgueil is noted for its long-lived reds. 

Saumur, between Touraine and Anjou, started out as a sweet wine district, then near the end of the 19th century, converted to sparkling and dry red wines made from Cabernet Franc.  A small amount of sweet Chenin Blanc is made in the Coteaux de Saumur appellation.

Muscadet is a dry white wine that, while having seen better days, is still vital.  Made near the mouth of the Loire river from the Melon de Bourgogne grape, most of the wine carries the Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine appellation.  And, there are three others, including the basic Muscat appellation, that can include 10% Chardonnay.  Since the 1980s, Muscadet winemakers have dabbled in lees contact and barrel fermentation.

Today, most of the attention directed at French wine usually settles on Bordeaux and Burgundy.  Fortunately, writers and marketers are looking closely at  alternative wines, including those from the Loire Valley. 

Next post:  Historic Wines of Campania

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