Yammerin' About Wine Sales

   

You may not have noticed, but the wine industry is in a tizzy about shrinking wine sales and by extension, the desertion of wine drinkers for other  beverages.  Thing is, the uproar is hardly mentioned outside the trade, except for the occasional newspaper business article. 

Unless you follow wine trade news, you'd never know there's a problem.  But, is there  a problem, and if so, why is there a problem?  

Numbers bore me, so I don't keep up with wine sales, but I do read wine business articles and the occasional wine blog that often subject readers to "the sky is falling" posts.  Depending on who is writing, the yammering is either considerate or chaotic. 

Now, I am not saying that we shouldn't worry about falling wine sales , or that consumers, especially young ones, seem to prefer other beverages. What I am suggesting is the problem is complicated. 

Among those things that are complicating wine sales and causing confusion at the retail level, are: too many lists of "overrated" wines by writers and  sommeliers, who should know better; too many columns about inaccessible wines;  too much complaining about the three-tier system; too many new wines with names that have nothing to do with wine; and most egregious, too much bowing and scrapping before so-called "Influencers."

 -  I first became aware of influencers when I saw a piece by the "Wine Fashionista," a woman who displayed limited wine knowledge, attempted to show, while fawning for the camera and insinuating herself into every photo, how fashionable she, and  wine were. The Wine Fashionista is a glaring example of using wine for self promotion, while not promoting wine.

- Then, there are the headlines for wine articles that leave the reader with the impression that wine is a profane joke.  An example is this headline in the British publication "Punch," accompanying an interview with a young Scottish wine writer: "Meet Hannah Crosbie, the UK's Shitposting Anti 'Trad Wine Writer.'"  I read that headline again, and charitably thought , maybe I'm just an old  geezer trying to understand  how the use of profanity, in what claims  to be a piece about wine,  helps bring younger consumers, who reportedly are the ones not buying wine, into the fold.  

The interview is full of softball questions, but then I dug deeper and found that wine and the 27-year-old Crosbie are not full of s#@$.  Crosbie agrees that wine is not being marketed to young consumers correctly and that "trad" wine writers need to get up to speed.  Crosbie is  not the first person to make those claims.  

There's more to the interview, but my point is that while a profanity loaded headline may speak to the "anti trad" reader,  it fails to take wine seriously.

- Unless you're a tech millionaire, it's not likely you'll be attracted to wine by reading about wines costing hundreds, or even thousands of dollars.  "Wine-Searcher," the wine e-zine has a running series of "The World's Most Expensive" wines, and I wonder how many readers, new to wine, are drawn to their lists.  

Sommeliers share some of the blame for this blatant inflation, by flogging expensive wines.  Check the wine list of any upscale white tablecloth restaurant and the prices will make you gasp.  Wine is expensive, but there are plenty of moderately priced wines that may help bring more new customers into the wine fold.

(Full disclosure: In the Sept. 27 posting of this blog, my intent was to write about three excellent Super Tuscan wines, and not about expensive wine.  As it turns out, though, the Super Tuscans I chose cost $175, $250 and $300.) 

- The evils of the Three Tier system is a subject that gets too much attention, at least in the trade press.  The three tiers - importers or producers, distributors, retailers - frequently work together to determine wine pricing in the United States.  But the apparent collusion is what it is and endlessly yammering about it doesn't seem to be moving the needle, so maybe some of that energy should be channeled into a more positive way to promote wine.  

- Finally, I question if wine names like "Whiny Baby" encourage people  to think wine.  Really, do these names suggest clever marketing, or are young parents and expectant mothers the target audiences?  I don't know, but I do know that it is misguided marketing.  Craft brewers have used goofy names to market their beers for years, so I guess it was inevitable that wineries would say, why not?  But, if there's a wine connection, it's hard to see.  

   

Those are just a few of the reasons I think could be causing a drop in wine sales.  Here are three positive things I noticed recently that could give slumping sales a boost. 

+  Chris Sawyer, an energetic, unabashed disciple of wine, moderates "The Varietal Show," an on-going interview and tasting program, available on You-Tube.  Sawyer's approach is a casual tasting and chat with a winemaker, geared to bring out the personality of the interviewee and their wine.  "The Varietal Show" is a simple, non-stuffy way to promote any wine.  

+ "Harvest Stomp" is an annual, boisterous music-filled al fresco dinner and auction, to support the Napa Valley Farmworker Foundation and Napa Valley Grapegrowers.  The short promotional video shows people having fun amidst what appears to be organized chaos.  An easy-going harvest dinner-auction is an effective way to show young people that wine need not be stuffy. 

+ Simplify wine is a no-brainer.  Presenting wine as elitist and complicated will turn novice wine drinkers away from wine.  Don't dumb down the bare basics, but keep it easy-to-understand and personal.  People like stories and want to know about the winemaker and other key winery and vineyard workers. 

+ Finally, "Come Over October," is a national campaign to get people to share friendship and community over a glass of wine.  It's an idea we can all get behind.  Find out more about Come Over October at www.comeoveroctober.com. 

The wine industry has been wandering around talking to itself, crowded by a lot of individual promotions, but little combined effort to tell the story of wine, like Come Over October.  It's time to stop yammerin' about falling sales and start thinking positive thoughts about all wine.

 

Next post: Sierra Foothills

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California's "Other" Wine Regions

Every wine-producing country in the world has a premier region.  Most countries have one area that stands above the rest: in Argentina it's the Mendoza Valley, Rioja has long been the classic region of  Spain, and in Australia, there's the Barossa Valley. 

A few countries boast two top wine regions: Piedmont and Tuscany in Italy; Burgundy and Bordeaux in France.  Based on diversity and size, California is generally accepted as the top U.S. region, with the Napa Valley at the top of the list in the Golden State. 

Of course, putting Napa Valley first rankles some California wine fans, who point to Sonoma, as well as other regions.  And it should be said that there are others who object to California as premier, voting instead for Washington state or Oregon. 

But, even if we agree that Napa Valley and Sonoma are the California leaders, there are many other places in the state known for wine.  Here is a short list and the wine or wines that bring each area the most attention. 

Looking toward the bay in Los Carneros

Carneros, or more correctly, Los Carneros, is one of California's two-county appellations. Carneros stretches across  the north end of the San Francisco Bay, in Napa and Sonoma counties. Los Carneros ("the rams" in Spanish) is a cool climate region, suited for Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and sparkling wines.  Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah are also grown.

 Lake County, on the eastern flanks of Napa and Mendocino, is not as accessible as either of these places.  The seven official sub-appellations are gathered around or near Clear Lake, with most vineyards exposed to more sunshine, at elevations of 1,500 feet or higher.  An added benefit  is the moderating influence of Clear Lake.  Lake County is most known for Cabernet Sauvignon,  Sauvignon Blanc and Tempranillo.

Lodi is the Goldilocks wine region, neither too hot nor too cold.  Located in California's  northern Central Valley, Lodi grows an impressive 128 wine grapes, but is known for Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.  Breezes from the nearby Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta moderate the climate, allowing for popular old-vine blends, with Carignan and Alicante Bouchet.

Livermore Valley was a premier wine region before the rising popularity of Napa and Sonoma. Today, its popularity trails behind both places. East of the San Francisco Bay, Livermore is a warm area that still manages to produce Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.  Other varieties of note are Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Franc and Tempranillo.

Mendocino is known for its two distinct main growing areas: the warmer inland area around Ukiah and the cooler marine-influenced Anderson Valley.  The interior area, including Redwood Valley, is suited for growing Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, while in the cooler Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, Riesling and sparkling wines are best known.  

Monterey, in agricultural terms, has a split personality.  The inland Salinas Valley, known as "America's Salad Bowl," grows row crops like lettuce, artichokes and carrots.  Coastal Monterey is wine country, especially in the Santa Lucia Highlands, noted for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and Arroyo Seco, long an area for Riesling and Rhone varieties.

Paso Robles is where Zinfandel had its day in the 1880s, with the planting of the regions first Zin and the founding of York Mountain Winery.  Situated in San Luis County, the large region has 11 sub appellations, specializing in Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and white and red Rhone varieties, supplied in large part by the winery and nursery of Tablas Creek.

Santa Barbara County vineyard

Santa Barbara has an unusual land arrangement with the Pacific Ocean.  The mountains run east-west, instead of the more usual north-south.  The open passage exposes vineyards to cooling sea breezes.  Chardonnay came first in Santa Barbara, followed by Pinot Noir, established by Sanford & Benedict in the early 1970s.  Burgundy varieties found a home in the Santa Maria Valley, whereas, because of the east-west orientation,  a more diverse group of grapes, including Rhone varieties, are planted in the Santa Ynez Valley. 

Santa Cruz Mountains appellation, between Santa Cruz and San Jose, is slowly being encroached by spreading commercial development.  Still, thanks to pioneers like Ridge Vineyards, David Bruce and later, Randall Grahm, cool climate grapes like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay were well suited.  Grahm's Bonny Doon Vineyard pushed for Rhone varieties and Ridge took advantage of the warmer part of the region for Cabernet Sauvignon.

Sierra Foothills multi-county wine region, along the western edge of the Sierra Nevada mountains.  The area's heritage as a wine region goes back to the aftermath of the 19th century Gold Rush, when miners traded panning for gold for planting vines.  Zinfandel was among the first varieties to take root in places like Amador County.  In no particular order, Bordeaux varieties, Rhone white and red grapes and Spanish varieties like Tempranillo, followed.

California is a big state with numerous wine regions and a lot of wine.  Take a break from Napa and Sonoma and pull the cork on a wine from one of California's other wine regions. 

 

Next post: Yammering About Wine

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Bordeaux in Tuscany

               

Mention Tuscany and most wine drinkers think of Chianti, or maybe  Brunello di Montalcino, or Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.  There is a common thread running through this classic trio of Tuscan red wines:  Sangiovese.

Sangiovese has been the main variety for years along the narrow strip of land on Tuscany's Maremma coast.  But since 1995, Sangiovese has had to share the top spot, mainly in Bolgheri, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, red grapes more at home in Bordeaux than Tuscany. 

Before 2011, production of Bolgheri wine was mostly blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, supplemented with Syrah and Cabernet Franc up to 50% in the blend. The blending approach was soon changed with the introduction of Sassicaia, and a new concept to be called Super Tuscan.

Sassicaia, Bolgheri's noteworthy Cabernet Sauvignon-based Super Tuscan, is owned by the Marchese Incisa della Rocchetta, who was the first to plant Cabernet Sauvignon in Bolgheri in the 1940's.  Although it seems quaint today, the Marquis' goal was to have a house wine, not to someday make an Italian red wine fashioned after a great Bordeaux. 

The Bolgheri DOC was created in 1983, but oddly, only for white and pink wine.  It took another 11 years for the DOC to be amended to include red wine. Then, in 1994, the Sassicaia zone was established. 

 Sassicaia, a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc, is made in the Bordeaux style, aged in French oak barriques, and marketed by Antinori. The barrique bordelaise, often called the "chateau" barrel, holds 59 gallons of wine. 

Cabernet Sauvignon, a decidedly non-Italian grape has, never-the-less, brought fame and fortune to the coastal area, as well as the Marchese Rocchetta.  Sassicaia retails for $300.

Ornellaia, Bolgheri's other prestigious Super-Tuscan, is made by Frescobali, a major landholder in Tuscany.  Until 2000, Frescobaldi concentrated on Tuscany, then the wine company branched out first to Friuli, then in 2004, it purchased the Ornellaia estate in northern Bolgheri.

The name Ornellaia means "ash tree," common in the northern part of Bolgheri. Made in the Bordeaux style, the wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with small percentages of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, then aged in French oak barriques.  Although Ornellaia is a Super Tuscan, priced at about $250, it stands on its own as one of Tuscany's best-known Cabernet Sauvignons.  

Primarily, soils in Bolgheri and Bordeaux are quite different, as are basic wine making techniques.  Even though both Sassicaia and Ornellaia are made from the same grapes, they have different flavors and structures. The percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon is higher in Sassicaia, so the dominant flavor is black fruits. Merlot provides a heightened presence of fruitiness and softer tannins, while the addition of Cabernet Franc in Ornellaia gives the wine a hint of blueberry. 

Tignanello, a Chianti Classico, not from Bolgheri, is usually included in the top three of Super Tuscan wines. Owned by Marchesi Antinori, Tignanello, a popular blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, is classified as an IGT Sangiovese.  Tignanello is the first Sangiovese to be aged in barriques and the first Chianti Classico to not include white grapes in the blend. 

Tignanello has the subtle scent of cooked tomatoes, with a distinct tart pie cherry flavor, characteristics of Sangiovese dominated blend, and distinctly different from Cabernet Sauvignon. Thus,  Tignanello, about $175, is a different style of Super Tuscan.  Super Tuscan (or Supertuscan) is a term first used in the 1970s to describe a Bordeaux blend aged in barriques.  Super Tuscans are IGT wines, which replaced vino da tavola in 1992.  

Next post: California's "Other" Wine Regions

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My Favorite Wine

 

The Burgundian truffle sniffer

I'm often asked by well-meaning people: "What's your favorite wine?" I could dismiss them with the cliched, "Well, that's like asking me to pick my favorite child."

Although, when asked the question wine writers most hate to hear, I usually just force a smile and reply: "I don't have a favorite," or "All of the wines I taste are my favorites."  

But, I'd be lying.  Truth is, I've always had a favorite wine.  As far back as the late 1950s, when I  had my first epiphany, the wine I kept coming back to is red Burgundy.  And, if I couldn't afford Burgundy (Who can? ), then I'd happily drink Pinot Noir from California, New Zealand, Oregon, Victoria, Australia and anywhere else that's making good Pinot Noir.

Fans of Burgundy and Pinot Noir may tell you, without hesitation, that it is the most sensuous of red wines, packed with textured flavors  and gobs of dark cherry and ripe plum,  supported by tannin and acidity that are never harsh or intrusive.   One sip and you know that this is a wine designed for pleasure.

Savoring a favorite red Burgundy is like eating food you never tire of, especially a dish enhanced with Burgundian truffles.   And there are many positive and satisfying things to say about Burgundy and Pinot Noir, how soon will it be until I get another glass? 

When I was a young boy, my mother worked for an Italian deli, in suburban Philadelphia, known for its hoagies.  Even though, I am a strict vegetarian, the memory of Italian cold cuts, provolone cheese, tomato and lettuce, Italian seasonings and a drizzle of oil, all wrapped in a fresh hoagie roll, is still  fresh and indelible. 

Years after my hoagie days, I had what might be a second wine epiphany, when I tasted some 30-year-old Burgundies.  Not since, of the thousands of wines tasted, has there been a wine as memorable. 

On the way home from the tasting, the lingering memory of the Burgundy I had just had was as strong as if I had just had the wine in my mouth.  It was then I knew my next wine purchase would be red Burgundy or Pinot Noir. 

Rhapsodizing about  a favorite wine or food is, I'm sure, crazy to some people. But food and drink are primary and after having a memorable taste experience, you  may never be moved by that kind of craziness again, even while the search continues. 

A passion for music, art, sport, food, wine is for many people, vital to life and personal growth.  A television program, currently on FX and Hulu, called "The Bear," illustrates my point.  The series is about a life force that subtly urges the staff of a popular Chicago neighborhood sandwich shop to nurture their passion, even if they don't yet know what that is or why it is slowly taking over their life.  The multi-ethnic crew of different personalities is being urged  to refashion the "Beef" sandwich shop into a fine dining establishment, by one driven man   looking to repeat the magic he once had as a star chef. 

"The Bear" is a loud, chaotic, fast-moving set piece about people's discovery of a personal passion for food, and being immersed in a new and fascinating lifestyle...Burgundy had that affect on me by developing a passion for wine and food.  

I didn't come to Burgundy directly. While stationed in Germany, I discovered that wine was a more interesting beverage than beer and I wanted to know more about it.  The transition came later in France with my first taste of Beaujolais Gamay Noir, that prepared me for the Burgundy to come.    

Without knowing it, I was at the edge of the Burgundy region when I had the Beaujolais.  But, it was years before Burgundy became my desert isle wine. 

That's my story.  You don't have to wait years, like I did, before discovering the pleasures of Burgundy and Pinot Noir.  Next time you're wine shopping, look for a starter red Burgundy like Cote de Beaune or Macon, or try Pinot Noir from Oregon, Russian River, Anderson Valley, Monterey or Santa Barbara.

 

Next post: Bordeaux in Tuscany

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Argentine White Wine

Argentine wine is usually colored red, as in Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon.  In Argentina,  a glass of red wine is just the thing to enjoy with the country's  famous asado, a sizzling slab of grilled beef.

A contented red angus

In fact, Argentina is the number-one consumer of beef in the world, putting away an impressive 160 pounds per inhabitant, compared to the U.S. per capita of 84 pounds.  Australian beef lovers are just behind Americans.  And in second place?  Zimbabwe!

It takes a lot of Malbec to wash down that amount of asado, so you have to wonder if Argentina makes white wine.  It does.  And Argentine white wines are growing in popularity as more Argentinians turn to lighter food.  Beef ranchers are beginning to feel the pinch, with the lighter movement forcing the domestic sale of red meat to trend down.

Most U.S. wine shops have rows of Argentine Malbec, but what about white wine? Let's take a closer look at what styles of white wine are in stock.

At the top of the Argentina list, mainly because it's so pervasive, is Chardonnay.  Followers of my writing, are aware of my indifference toward Chardonnay.  To be clear, I don't dislike Chardonnay, but find there are so many more interesting white wines, like Riesling, Albariño, Semillon,  that show pure fruit flavors not hidden under gobs of new French oak. 

Fortunately, Argentine winemakers, like their colleagues around the world, have heard consumer complaints about too much oak in Chardonnay, especially new French oak.  Winemakers in Mendoza and San Juan have been focusing on the essential flavors in Chardonnay and how to best integrate those flavors with the moderate influence of oak. 

Torrontés. Virtually unknown in the United States, Torrentés is the white grape with the most potential.  And with the proper marketing, Torrontes promises to do for Argentine white wine what Malbec has done for Argentine red wine. 

My first taste of Torrontés was in Argentina. The local buzz in Mendoza, then and now, was about the winemaker, Susana Balbo, who had been crowned the "Queen of Torrontés."  Unique to Argentina, Torrontés is a dry, fruity wine, with bright nectarine flavors, highlighted by floral and citrus zest notes.  The Balbo Torrentés I had in Mendoza hit all those notes. 

Balbo Torrontés available at U.S. retail, include Susana Balbo Signature Barrel Fermented Torrentés, $30 and Signature Brioso White Blend, of Torrontés, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, $25.  Balbo also has Crios de Susana Balbo Torrontés, $19, a tribute to her children; "crios" is Spanish for "kids." 

There are three varieties of Torrontés in Argentina: Torrontés-Riojano, Torrontés-Sanjuanino, mainly grown in San Juan province;  and Torrontés-Mendocino, also common in San Juan province. 

Torrontés Riojano is the most common variety and is the second-most planted white wine grape in Argentina.  Riojano is a cross of Muscat Alexandria and Criolla Chica, known in  California as the historic Mission grape. 

                                                         

An aside.  Regulations for the production of wine and grape growing vary from country to country.  The United States has a range of rules, including the AVA system, but by and large, American wineries can grow what grapes they wish and make the type of wine they want. Apparently, the system is quite different in Argentina. 

In its September issue, Decanter magazine reported that Argentina's government entity responsible for the regulation of wine production and grape growing, has approved the Criolla Chica grape for the production of light red wine. It would seem that in the past, Argentine wineries were only officially permitted to use the Criolla Chica grape for rosé wines and in blends.  

The literal translation of "criolla chica" is "creole girl," and that makes me wonder why anyone would give that name to a wine grape?

With the new ruling on Criolla Chica, it's now likely that we will see more Argentine white wines and light reds.  Proprietary blends are popular, such as the unusual combination of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.  Until recently, Chardonnay was the only white that was rarely blended with another variety. 

There are four varieties of Torrontés in Spain, none of them the same as the three in Argentina.  The Spanish Torrontés I had was lighter and a little lower in acidity, with a flavor profile closer to Albariño.

All wine regions have a signature wine; Argentina has two: Torrontés and Malbec.  Next time you reach for an Argentine wine, make it Torrontés, priced reasonably between $12 and $19, with the odd one, like the Balbo barrel-fermented, at a higher price.

 

Next post:  My Favorite Wine

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Lazio Vino

It's summer and you're on your dream vacation in Rome.  The Eternal City can be like a sauna in the peak summer months, leaving visitors and Romans alike looking for some relief. 

One possibility is to head southeast, a few miles to the Castelli Romani, for a glass (or two) of refreshing white wine.  The 11 Castelli DOCs, of which Frascati is the best known, are within the Lazio (Latium) region, an area that has had its ups and downs.

In the plus column, improved vineyard practices and a renewed understanding of how grapes are nurtured in the local volcanic soils are behind a recent boost in wine quality.  But progress is difficult as  growers and vintners are forced to deal with high land prices, caused by Romans escaping the congestion of the hectic city for the quiet life among the Castelli. 

Castelli Romani is a series of seven rolling hills, far enough from Rome to feel rural, yet close enough to attract day trippers, enticed by the area's many restaurants and, of course, the Castelli Romani wine.  The Castelli, or "castles," are volcanic hillocks that form the Alban hills.

                       

Modern wine making has crept into Lazio, and now exists alongside the old ways.  In his illustrated reference, "Wine Atlas of Italy," 1990, the American in Italy, Burton Anderson, says "in the old days, Castelli wine was drawn from large chestnut casks, demijohns and flasks." Today, it's likely that many of those casks are for show and the finished wine is drawn from stainless steel.

Castelli Romani wines are dry, light, refreshing, and mainly white, made from Malvasia, local clones of Italy's ubiquitous Trebbiano, in the form of Trebbiano Verde and Trebbiano Soave, Moscato Bianco, plus bits and pieces of dozens of other grapes.  

A few Castelli Romani, notably Marino and Velletri, make a light red wine, from the red Cesanese grape, grown mainly in Velletri DOC.  

Cyril Ray, the eminent English wine writer, had a fondness for the wines of the Lazio sub-region of Marino, describing them, in his 1966 The Wines of Italy,  as "fuller and more spicily fragrant" than other Castelli wines. 

The dynamic American duo of Italian food and wine, Marcella and Victor Hazan, were intimately  familiar with Castelli Romani and Lazio cuisine.  While Marcella whipped up a platter of spaghetti carbonara, Victor wrote, in his 1982 book, Italian Wine, about the main grape of Castelli, "Malvasia dominates the blend of Roman white wine."  

Problem is, Italy has a bewildering array of 20 grapes called Malvasia, all of them tracing their origin back to Greece, the ancestral home of many of Italy's grapes. Malvasia Candida is the most common form in Lazio, although Malvasia del Lazio (also known as Malvasia Puntinata) makes more distinctive white wine. 

Malvasia del Lazio

When not over cropped, Malvasia is noted for peach and apricot-like flavors, moderate acidity and a fresh fruity finish, the very definition of Castelli Romani.

Seco is the most popular style requested on local wine lists. Sweeter styles range from amabile, cannelino or dolce and spumante.  All of these wines are commonly available in the trattorias of nearby Rome. 

Frascati, Lazio's best-known wine, is based on a local variation of Malvasia.  Officially, the blend for Frascati can also contain Trebbiano Toscana, a grape lacking varietal character,  that, according to some, has diluted the wine's character.

Compounding the problems with Frascati is declining vineyard acreage due to creeping suburbia on the east side of Rome.   The small town of Frascati, surrounded by vineyards, was once distant from Rome, but now it's hard to tell where Frascati ends and Rome begins. 

Frascati Superiore, with lower yields and a bit more alcohol, was elevated to DOCG status in 2011, implying higher quality than standard Frascati.  In their book on Italian wine and food, Vino Italiano, 2002, David Lynch and Joseph Bastianich, describe Frascati as "high-toned and fragrant."

Consumers looking for something more than a pleasant white wine, might seek out Frascati from small producers that concentrate on wine from select grapes, like Malvasia Putinata, even though the increased cost over standard Frascati, makes a sale more difficult. 

It may be difficult to avoid the crowds during peak tourist season in Rome, but the promise of a glass of light and refreshing white wine awaits you in the Castelli Romani.

Next post: Argentine White Wine

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Beaujolais and Respect

Beaujolais is the Rodney Dangerfield of wine.  For those readers too young to remember Rodney Dangerfield; he was a hilarious television comedian, who popularized the dark blue suit and red tie, long before a not-so funny person, looming today on television.  At the beginning of his standup routine, a deadpan Rodney Dangerfield would utter this memorable line: "I tell you, I don't get any respect."  

The same can be said about Beaujolais.  The thing about Beaujolais and wine writers is that some of us believe it is our responsibility,  at least once a year, to suggest appropriate wines with holiday foods.  

                         

Beaujolais for the Holidays

To intimately know a wine, it is important to know where the wine is from.  True Beaujolais comes from a wine region in east-central France, between the cities of Macon  and Lyons. Why true?  Because there is a lot of wannabe bogus "beaujolais" trading on the name of the French wine.

The next main thing to know about (true) Beaujolais is it's made from Gamay Noir, or more officially, Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc , which means "white juice from a black grape." Beaujolais is planted in about 98% Gamay Noir, the rest is Chardonnay, Melon and Aligote, grown mainly for Beaujolais Blanc or table wine enjoyed by locals.

The other important thing to know is that Beaujolais is characterized by a wine making method known as carbonic maceration.  Usually, understanding the fermentation technique used is not essential to wine enjoyment, but with Beaujolais, having some idea how CM works, will help to understand the nature of Beaujolais and why it may appeal to you. 

For full CM, individual grapes or whole clusters, skins unbroken, are placed in an oxygen-free atmosphere, allowing the transformation of grape sugars in the juice into ethanol, without the presence of yeast.  Essentially, a fermentation occurs within each berry.  In practice, though, a percentage of the grapes at the bottom of the tank are partially crushed by the weight of the clusters above,  creating semi-carbonic maceration.

CM is the main characteristic of Beaujolais Nouveau, a fruity, gulpable, ready-to-drink red wine, released in mid-November to the bistros of Paris and later around the world.  Nouveau is dismissed as plonk by some wine merchants and restaurateurs, who refuse to sell it, while others see Nouveau as a revenue-generator that gets customers through the door.

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Nouveau Beaujolais not your drink?  No worries, there are other more serious styles, such as basic Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages.  The former is a red wine with all the character of Beaujolais: deep purple-red color, up-front juicy fruit and lots of texture.  If the wine comes from one of the 38 named villages, the wine may carry  the name of the village.  A subtle difference, to be sure, but one that carries the promise, real or not,  of higher quality.

That promise becomes a reality with the so-called Beaujolais Crus, 10 specific communes with a consistent reputation for higher quality wine.  The Crus, different from each other in terms of texture, weight, flavor characteristics and longevity are: Brouilly, Cote de Brouilly, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Juliénas, Régnié, Saint-Amour, Chenas, Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent.  The last three are considered the most structured and longest lived.  

Cru Beaujolais are permitted under French wine law to be sold as AOC Bourgogne, but rarely do, as they are proudly Beaujolais, not Burgundy.

No matter what style of Beaujolais impresses your palate, drink it with the respect due a French wine that doesn't pretend to be anything but what it is. 

Note:  Every year I post my annual column on what I think is the best wine to have with the Thanksgiving feast. Look for this year's post on November 8.

 

Next post: Lazio Vino 

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The 3M's of Dessert Wines

Dessert wines, so-called stickies that most people agonize over,  don't easily fit into a meal or a wine event. 

Planning a meal with multiple wines, the challenge with dessert wine is its often too sweet as an aperitif or cocktail wine, although Port is a favorite aperitif wine in France.   And, with the possible exception of Sauternes and Barsac, dessert wines are usually not the best choice with the entree.  

Serve a rich, gooey chocolate dessert to an American and you have a happy person. But if you present a dessert wine with a sweet dessert, instead of as dessert, you're asking for a clash of the sugars.

It's a dilemma that some gladly embrace, while others just as gladly ignore.  There's no secret formula or strategy for deciding when to enjoy a dessert wine, but a good place to start is to consider Madeira, Marsala and Malaga, the 3Ms of dessert wine.  

Clinging terraced vineyards on Madeira

Madeira is an historic dessert wine, with an American connection.   Madeira comes from the Portuguese island of the same name, floating in the Atlantic Ocean, closer to North Africa than it is to Portugal. 

At the end of the 18th century, American colonists were importing enough Madeira, that the new country became a major export market for Madeira.  So popular was Madeira in the colonies, that it was used to toast the Declaration of Independence in 1776.

Madeira is a fortified wine.  That is, at a specified stage of fermentation, grape spirit  is added, arresting the fermentation, resulting in a sweet fortified wine with about 20% alcohol.  An examination of old records, though, reveals that Madeira likely started as a non-fortified wine. 

Production of Madeira is centered around artificial "aging" in an estufa, a special room, heated by an outside source or by warm water circulating through a network of pipes inside the room.  Barrels or lodge pipes (145-200 gals.) of Madeira are stored in the rooms, heating the wine until it attains a yellow-brown color and a nutty/prune aroma.  Modern estufagem use stainless steel tanks heated by an external system of hot-water pipes. 

At the top of the grape list for Madeira is Tinta Negra, a red-skinned variety that grows well in the island's fertile soils.  Additionally, there are five traditional white grapes used to make Madeira: Boal, Malvasia, Sercial, Terrantez and Verdelho.  A few American hybrids are grown for making local dry table wine. 

All, or some, of these grapes are used in the following styles, roughly from dry to sweet: Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, Malmsey.  Special historic styles, like Rainwater, remain popular, while the latest types of Madeira include  an indication of age (10-Year), Colheita and Vintage. 

Marsala and a Sicilian snack

Marsala is an Italian fortified sweet wine, from the province of Trapani, on the island of Sicily.  Unlike the origin story of Madeira, Marsala owes its beginnings to one  Englishman, named Woodhouse, who thought the local wine made around Trapani was similar to Port and Madeira.  So, he fortified the wine and shipped it to England where Marsala became an instant hit with his fellow countrymen. 

The base wine for Marsala comes from Sicily's traditional white grapes: Grillo, Cataratto and Inzolia (See "Sicilian White Wine," July 19, 2024).  Marsala is made either by adding grape spirit, or by increasing the alcohol level through the infusion of mistela, a high-sugar grape juice, similar to Germany's süssreserve.   

 There are three main styles of Marsala: Fine, made with the addition of grape spirit, mistela and one year of cask aging;  Superiore, only mistela and two years of cask aging;   Vergine, a dry style with no mistela and at least five years of cask aging.

Marsala has suffered indignities in years past, including the addition of  "special flavorings such as chocolate, almonds and eggs.  After years of poor quality and shrinking sales, Marsala has turned the corner and the "special" styles of Madeira are no longer allowed to be labeled as DOC Madeira. 

General Jose de San Martin, hearing the tasting results

Malaga, is a Spanish dessert wine from the sun-drenched province of Andalucia. Malaga traces its history back to Moorish occupation of the land.  By the 18th century, with the Moors gone, Malaga was openly exported worldwide.  

At what may have been the first "blind" wine tasting, Argentine General San Martin asked his dinner guests to taste one of his favorite Mendoza wines against the reputation of a Malaga. The general's wine game reportedly boosted the reputation of Mendoza wine.

In Andalucia, Muscat of Alexandria and Pedro Ximenez ripen to high sugar levels, maxing out at 14% residual sugar. At one time, Malaga was made by drying the grapes in the sun on grass mats to concentrate the grape sugars. 

Today, the Malaga technique is to stop fermentation by adding a mistela, the sweet juice of  late-harvest sun-dried Moscatel, or by adjusting the sweetness with arrope, the process where unfermented grape juice is boiled down to 30% its normal volume, then added to the fermenting wine.  

Aged Malaga matures in oak barrels, arranged in a solera, similar to the fractional blending system popularized in the Sherry region of Andalucia.  Spanish law allows an impressive 16 types of Malaga, from Seco (dry) to Sweet, gradated on different levels of residual sugar.  Additionally, there is a golden Dorado (no arrope) and Negro (at least 15% arrope).

The taste of Malaga is defined by concentration and ripeness.  With Malaga, and Marsala more than Madeira, sweetness is secondary.  The essence of good Malaga is raisiny, with underlying spice and subtle caramel.  Sufficient acidity assures Malaga will be sweet but not cloying.

A small glass of Madeira, Marsala or Malaga, is a great way to end a meal.  Lighter and less filling than a heavy dessert, one of the 3M's of dessert wine satisfies the craving for something sweet, after a meal. 

 

Next post: Beaujolais and Respect

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"ABR"

A while ago, some wags thought they would do wine drinkers a service by coming up with the acronym, "ABC."  Suggesting an "Anything But Chardonnay" drinking strategy was not only presumptuous, it was silly. 

I say presumptuous, because there are a helluva lot of people that enjoy a glass of Chardonnay.  And, "ABC" is a silly ban since Chardonnay is planted in all the major wine regions.  Like it or not, Chardonnay is synonymous with white wine.

But the ABC miss-adventure also got me thinking:  Imagine trying to float the idea of "Anything But Riesling," in Germany.   Not likely, since 23% of Germany's 135 varieties are Riesling.  And, 67% of that 135 are white grapes, which means, that while Riesling still holds a firm place, there is a lot more to German white wine.  

Tongue-twisting grape names like Scheurebe, Roter Traminer, Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris),  Müller-Thurgau and Gewurztraminer, are fairly common in Germany, but they don't have the caché of Riesling.  Lesser known are Trollinger and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc).

Roter Traminer is also known as Savagnin Rose, a non aromatic version of Gewürztraminer.  Savagnin, an ancient variety, is connected through genetic to many modern grapes, including Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc.   And, Ruländer, the traditional German name for Pinot Gris, appears on wine labels, along with Grauburgunder.

Pfalz vineyard

Germany's Pfalz region is home to a number of these lesser known white grapes.  Pfalz sits atop the point where the Saar and Rhine rivers meet.  To the north is Nahe and Rheinhessen, with Baden in the southeast.  Many of these grapes are grown in Baden, Nahe and north along the Mosel. 

A Closer Look

Scheurebe is a recent arrival on the vineyard scene, first in the Rheinhessen, then the Pfalz.  Developed as a cross of Riesling and Bukettraube, itself an obscure cross.  The aim was to grow Scheu, its common name, as a replacement for the noble Riesling.  There were problems with getting Scheu to the desired ripeness, because slightly green, it made a harsh wine.  Scheurebe has good acidity, supporting black currant flavors and an edgy citrus note.

Pinot Gris is an adaptable grape that does quite well in Alsace, northern Italy as Pinot Grigio and Oregon, where its honeyed flavors are a good foil for Chardonnay. German Pinot Gris is popularly known as Ruländer and Grauburgunder.  The best examples offer ripe pear and nutty flavors with a subtle trace of wild honey. 

Pinot Blanc, called Weissburgunder in Germany, is a mutation of Pinot Gris, tracing its heritage to Burgundy's Pinot Noir.  An attractive feature of Pinot Blanc is its creamy texture.  That, plus good acidity and flavors that resemble ripe apples, put Pinot Blanc in the Chardonnay taste-alike category.

Müller-Thurgau was, for German wine, the great white hope.  While working in Switzerland,  Dr. Müller developed a cross of Riesling and Silvaner, naming the new grape for the canton of Thurgau in Switzerland.  Müller's idea was to combine the quality of Riesling with the reliability of Silvaner.  Despite a general lack of enthusiasm for the grape, M-T was widely planted, producing oceans of uninspiring  Liebfraumilch, Piesporter and others of the same ilk.  Today, when it is remembered, Müller-Thurgau, with its hint of Muscat, is mostly the backbone of what the Brits call "cheap and cheerful" wine.

Gewürztraminer

Gewürztraminer, an aromatic variant of Savagnin, has one of the most recognizable grape and wine aromas: exotic spices, lychee and perfumed roses.  Occasionally, GT is sometimes shown as Gewürz-Traminer, the perfumed variant of the Traminer grape. The German word "gewürz," when applied to the grape, means perfumed more than spice.  GT is grown throughout Germany and Europe. In 1973, the official grape name was altered, dropping the umlaut, in the French region of Alsace, across the Rhine river from Germany.

Trollinger likely came to Germany from northern Italy.  Historically, Trollinger and Roter Traminer trace a history in Wurttemberg, back to the 14th century.  Locals in this small region east of Baden, enjoy the light red wine produced from the red-skin grape.  

Riesling is a noble variety that displays its greatness as a dry, sweet or sparkling wine. But Riesling can be problematic to grow, so vintners turned to other white varieties, including crosses, to counter problems in the vineyard and the marketplace. Although efforts have been mixed, the result is a collection of wines, worth a try. 

Next post: The 3Ms of Dessert Wines

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The Douro

There are few wine regions, that once visited, leave an impression that stays with you, long after you return home.  For me, anywhere in Italy, South Africa's Western Cape and the starkly beautiful Douro Valley of northern Portugal, come readily to mind.

The Douro is a deep gash in the earth, carved over the millennia by a river that flows from the frontier with Spain, west  to the city of Oporto.  Before the Portuguese government damned the vital waterway, starting in 1968, to provide hydroelectricity, the river raced through the valley, moving barco rabelos, loaded with pipes of new Port wine to aging lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia, across the river from Oporto. 

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It must have been quite a sight.  Daring boatmen, balancing on the stern of a barco, one eye on the  precious Port, the other scanning the rocky walls that rose above the river, while manipulating a long rudder pole, keeping the cargo boat in the fast moving rapids and away from the rocks.  The men who worked those barcos, added the Portuguese word rabelo, or "fishtail," to describe the back and forth action of the steering pole in the water. 

Today, the few remaining barcos rabelos are kept around to impress the tourists, while the cargo and passengers move up and down the valley by rail. 

Up river, some 50 miles from Oporto, terraced vineyards stair step up the steep banks of the Douro, or are hidden in the narrow valleys, just off the river.  Large signs, visible from rail cars and the winding road between the tracks and the river, announce historic Port estates or quintas, like Sandeman, Croft, Dow, Fonseca and Ramos Pinto.  

A personal aside. Life in the Douro is peaceful and slow. On my first visit to Bom Retiro, the gentle slow-paced atmosphere of the quinta was a shock to my senses, coming from the fast-paced world outside the Douro.  

I was with Joao de Alemeda. We first met when Joao was with Ramos Pinto, owner of Bom Retiro.  As the director, Joao was a busy man, so he suggested the quiet of the quinta for our interview.  Although he had an office in Gaia, Bom Retiro was a spot for him to unwind and relax. 

Following a tour of the business end of the quinta, which included a look at one of the quinta's old lagers, a large trough made of slate, used by workers, shod in studded boots, to trod the grapes, we walked over to the old estate house, that once housed workers and company men up from Oporto.

We found a comfortable spot on the shaded porch of the main house, where I tried to finish the interview.  But, it was difficult to concentrate in the fading twilight, with the approaching evening slowly transforming the valley from light to dark, and the warm air shimmering with the buzz of insects. 

On that porch, in that secluded valley in Portugal, sipping an aged Tawny Port, while across the valley, a church bell counted out the evening hour, was a magical experience that has stayed with me all these years.

At every turn in the river, carved terraces hung precariously, following the contours of the steep banks.  I was told that more than one driver of a big yellow grader, carving a new terrace, lost his perspective, jumping to safety just before the huge machine plunged into the river.  In recent years, some quintas, replanting or were putting in a new vineyard, decided on vertical rows that look like green stripes disappearing over the top of the hill.

Grape growing in the Douro is labor-intensive, so having the vineyards close to the quinta was important.  For years, few growers could identify what grapes were in their vineyards, which was understandable as more than 80 varieties are authorized in the production of Port.  

Obviously, something had to be done, so in the 1970s, Cockburn and Ramos Pinto narrowed the extensive list down to five main grapes: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo) and Tinto Cao.  Those five varieties have become the accepted standard, with a handful of other grapes favored by some Port houses.

                                                                                         Wine Folly

There are two basic types of Port, plus a bewildering range of styles that demand detailed definitions to better understand the differences, sometimes subtle, between the styles of wood and bottle-aged Ports.  

Briefly, Ruby and Tawny are the two styles in the wood Port category.  Bottle-aged Port includes a string of styles like Vintage, Single Quinta Vintage, Crusted, LBV and Garrafeira.  And there's Colheita and Aged Tawny. 

A Port house has its own style, made from a proprietary combination of the five main grapes.  And, each has something unique to contribute to the house style. What is important to the consumer is which house style they find appealing.  That, of course, means that you need to sample a number of Ruby, aged Tawny Ports or Vintage to find your favorite.  

More on the pleasures of Port is scheduled for a post in the near future. 

Next post:  ABR

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